No ABS light but....

G

Gau8mechanic

New member
When I got the car, the cruise control didn't work. I checked the fuses and no bad fuses. I was told of a sensor that's somewhere in the right side brake line assembly. I misunderstood which sensor to look at and was measuring the ABS wheel speed sensor on the right front. I measured resistance of the sensor itself at a little over 1000 ohms. Then I had someone spin the wheel to look for voltage and found 0 VAC. To verify I was testing it correctly, I went to the left front and came up with similar resistance readings, but I was producing AC voltage when spinning the wheel. So my hypothesis is the right front sensor is bad(although unrelated to the failed cruise control?). So why am I not throwing an ABS fault light on the dash? I don't have a reader that can connect to the chassis connector under the hood to see if there are any soft codes stored.

If this is in fact a bad speed sensor, where in God's green earth can I get one besides the dealership? Now big box parts stores list them and rockauto.com doesn't show it either.

I'm still trying to find the sensor in the brake line that has been connected to failed cruise controls.:confused:
 
N

Neil

New member
Is it a Gen 2 Mark VIII? If so the right front sensor also provides the signal for the speedometer. If it's working and you have no ABS trouble message/light I wouldn't worry about it. I guess you could try a panic stop if you really want to know for sure. Or try to stop in snow!

The Brake Pressure sensor you are looking for is behind the right fender splash shield. If the recall was completed you will find a newer harness with fuse between the sensor and body wiring harness. It will have a recall tag on it.
 
tixer

tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
Worth a shot.. Although now that you mention it, when that recall first came out but the dealerships didn't yet have the part, the "temporary fix" was to just unplug the cruise harness until they could bring you into the shop.. I wonder if you'll discover that the recall was never performed on yours, and the cruise was left disconnected..
 
Lvnmarks

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
tixer said:
Worth a shot.. Although now that you mention it, when that recall first came out but the dealerships didn't yet have the part, the "temporary fix" was to just unplug the cruise harness until they could bring you into the shop.. I wonder if you'll discover that the recall was never performed on yours, and the cruise was left disconnected..
Click to expand...

That was my case when I got my 95, CC was just disconnected. Brought it to the dealer and they finished the recall.
 
G

Gau8mechanic

New member
I called the local dealership and ran the VIN to see if it had any open campaigns. They showed it didn't, BUT (the big but) he asked me to look at something over on the master cylinder. There should have been a piggy back harness looped in there somewhere(?????) that would indicate it had been done. I argued against that notion and informed him of the sensor in the RF wheel well and he said he never heard that before. So I must have gotten a dumb service writer. He also said his computer doesn't really go back that far for recalls on vehicles as old as mine. I'll just have to check when I get back home. Drove 400 miles to see my mimi (had two big strokes last week) and no CC for the whole trip. That sucked. Oh, I think the RF wheel hub bearing is going out too. Figured that out during this same trip. Hummed the whole way here. I looked them up for price and thought that wasn't too bad a price but noticed it looks pressed on. Not sure if this can be done in the driveway. Ugh.
 
N

Neil

New member
This should probably be a new thread but the hub assembly is held on by the axle nut. The old one should not be reused. You will need a 36mm axle nut socket, breaker bar and a torque wrench. Torque specs are 188-254 Lb-Ft.
 
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