No power to specific things, not blowing fuse(s)

Bangster

New member
This started happening after I replaced the OEM Ballast and HID bulbs with aftermarket. I cut the connectors off the the OEM ballast and crimped them to the 9006 harness I got with the HID kit. I used crimps that have heat shrink on them and shrunk them, and electrical taped them anyways. It isn't raining, temps in the 70, now the 50s.

The other night after starting the car and turning on the headlights, putting the car in reverse the head lights turned off, the dash lights, etc. It remains running, but I know when I turn it off it won't start back up.

The following things do NOT work:
anti-theft (message center doesn't show anti-theft)
starter (won't start with turn of key, but probably PATS?)
headlights
parking lights
dash lights
interior lights
power windows
trunk pop
message center
windshield wipers
radio

what works:
fuel pump (I hear it prime)
dash idiot lights (traction control, battery, etc)
power door locks
blower motor
EATC

If I disconnect the negative battery cable and connect it again, then things work again. This has happened twice, once right after doing the headlights, and then again. I have only driven it 250 miles, mostly at night, since doing the headlights.

I left the OEM ballast in place, the feed to it is cut, and the outputs are still attached to the radiator support. I had to root around the drivers corner of the bumper cover because I dropped an extension with a socket, and I think there is a major wiring harness there maybe?

I use a volt meter and checked power to every fuse, and every fuse had 12.2 or more volts on each side (input and on other side of fuse, so if it is was burnt out it wouldn't have any volts), both in the I/P block and the high amp block under the hood. I also removed any dealing with SCIL and visually checked them and did an ohm test as well.

I don't have auto lamp on, unless I time it just right the headlights turn off during crank and don't come back on. The battery seems okay (I am going to swap it with the old one out of another vehicle, but it still maintains at least 12.4 volts after a few days sitting), and the cables look solid (after the last time this happened I cleaned them up and tightened them up), no corrosion. When this isn't happening it cranks solidly, I did the WOT while cranking so it won't start at an oil change and after 4 crank no starts to get the oil pressure up, it started fine.

When it happened the first time I disconnected the HID setup and it didn't help, I had to pull and reconnect the ground cable.

Any ideas? I am not sure what I am missing with the headlights, unless they are drawing too much power or something, it doesn't seem to be when igniting, but much later, I am pretty sure they are up to full temp by the time it happens. It also doesn't blow any fuses.
 

driller

El Presidente
Sure seems like a grounding issue if removing the ground and reattaching it 'resets' everything.

FYI... not that I think it is the problem, simply checking for voltage at any fuse with a DVM is not necessarily a reliable test. I have seen many times when fuses blow they 'test' OK due to the internal splatter of the blown fuse. It seems to be just enough to test positive for voltage with a DVM but it is not carrying any current. Either use a test lamp or physically remove the fuse and visually inspect them.
 

budpytko

Super Senior Associate
Do you have the headlight switch on "AUTO"? If so, turn it OFF - start car - THEN turn headlights to ON (NOT AUTO). Report back.
 

Bangster

New member
I no longer use Auto lamp, as generally the headlights turn off while starting and don't come back on (and trigger the check lamps message, which is good). I mention that in my original post. I think turning on Auto lamp is what caused the early demise of the factory bulb to begin with.
 

Neil

New member
I think you know what you have to do. Disconnect your new ballast/ballasts and isolate the feed wires. Test run for proper operation. If everything works then recheck you new ballast wiring. Even though it's not blowing fuses it could be shorting the SCIL.
 

Bangster

New member
I think this ended up being the battery post/terminals. They looked clean, and solid, but once I used a wire brush on them, and tightened them up again it hasn't acted up since, and I have been using my headlights during the day when doing my local city driving. 2500 miles and it hasn't happened again. I did buy some tools (metric wrenches, 3/8 and 1/4 drive socket set, basic screw drivers, needle nose and water pump pliers) to have with me just in case, I was carrying around an 8mm wrench but the third time I went through security/metal detector at city/state buildings with it, I figured time to get some for the car.
 

driller

El Presidente
Glad you got it taken care of.

A fairly simple but diverse tool kit will do just fine to carry in the trunk. You really don't need any 'big tools' for roadside repairs.
 
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