Removing transmission need help

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gbradleyb

New member
I'll start with saying I've never pulled a transmission.

I've got the starter off, exhaust off and driveshaft removed.

Do I now need to remove the bell housing bolts or do I have to remove the torque converter nuts hidden under the inspection plate?...I've tried to remove the torque converter nuts but I can't get them loose
 
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Jamesvinar

New member
You're getting there, make sure the crossmember is out.
Torque converter comes first, an easy way to get them out would be to look on the drivers side of the trans mirror from where the starter is) there's a little rubber plug in there that you can pop out and get a ratchet it, have a 18 on the crank to keep the motor from turning.

Get the cooler lines and linkage done next and whatever wiring you can.

Don't have too much advice for the lower bolts, for the top ones you need to remove the wiper tray and use an open ended wrench, I have heard of others tilting the trans back to get more room. Have a jack under the trans at this point
 
SCTBIRD1173

SCTBIRD1173

Mark my Bird!
Mmmm, never had these issues removing converter nuts before. Hope that tool works for you, when is it coming?
 
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gbradleyb

New member
Won't get it until at least the 5th, but I can work on my go-kart...erm... I mean chevy metro until then.

I've read alot of mixed reviews on the tool. Some say it's a lifesaver and others say it's too bulky to fit into tight spots
 
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gbradleyb

New member
Well that was a no go. The tool was too bulky to get on the nut, I thought it would be much more compact. Time for the cutting torch
 
Lvnmarks

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
gbradleyb said:
Well that was a no go. The tool was too bulky to get on the nut, I thought it would be much more compact. Time for the cutting torch
Click to expand...
$_58.JPG

I've always used these, granted they are Snap On and aren't cheap. But they fit perfectly on those nuts.

I've done at least a dozen or so transmission R&R jobs, never had to torch anything. If it came down to that I would drop the engine/trassmission, pull the trans off and try to cut it off.
 
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gbradleyb

New member
Those look like they would of been helpful. Well I couldn't get my torch to stay running so I went back to Menards and got a Dremel with a 3 foot snake-like extension. I was able to cut the nuts and chisel them without damaging anything but the studs....oh well, I'm gonna replace torque converter anyway, just glad to b able to move on
 
Lvnmarks

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Yes, several extensions, a swivel or two and you can reach them going in from tail housing side. No reason to remove the manifolds unless you got headers going in, : D
 
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gbradleyb

New member
Got the passenger side upper bell housing bolt off no problem...drivers side must be a little tighter. I couldn't get it with a 2 foot breaker bar so I put 700 ftlb impact on it and it still didn't budge.

Did break my universal joint in the first impact attempt, it's wasn't exactly impact rated lol
 
Lvnmarks

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Gotta get the ball and socket type, much stronger. Plus when using an impact with u joints, only a fraction of the torque gets to the bolt through all the pieces.

I'd go back to the breaker bar and a pipe.
 
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chris2523

New member
Lvnmarks said:
Gotta get the ball and socket type, much stronger. Plus when using an impact with u joints, only a fraction of the torque gets to the bolt through all the pieces.

I'd go back to the breaker bar and a pipe.
Click to expand...
yes, impacting with extensions is a waste of time.
 
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gbradleyb

New member
Wow I think you guys were right. I had like 6 wobble extensions on there and couldn't impact it off...I switched to an impact universal joint and a 1/2 inch 2 foot extension and it impacted right out
 
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gbradleyb

New member
Well I've got all of the bolts off except this wierd one a couple inches above the rusty one in picture on drivers side. It doesn't match any of the other bolts on the bell housing and I don't have a socket that fits it tightly. It's between a 16 and 17 mm and has a washer or 2 on it, may not be original.





 
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