Spyder valve
- Thread starter Brad
- Start date
scotty96lsc
New member
No advice, but I heard from others that it is a good investment.
PalmettoMarkVIII
New member
Consider removing the bumper cover, it's not required, but it gives you MUCH more room to reach everything. I didn't on mine, but wish I had after seeing my bumper cover off later, after the install.
If you have not removed the air silencer yet, under the stock air filter and on top of the compressor, remove it first. There is no room to reach the four bolts on the compressor without doing so. Remove the stock air filter housing to get at the silencer(remove air tube(screw clamp)remove maf electrical connector,screw out bolts(housing to frame, not the filter access bolts)(one engine side low, one toward radiator high, loosen one on fender side for an open slot on housing to slide off of); with this out of the way, you will see three bolts around the round air passage to the filter. These are securing the air silencer. Remove these, remove the air silencer through inside fender well. This thing is bigger than you realize, will take some effort to twist it out.
Now the compressor is visible. Remove four bolts,remove four air lines(the plastic air line on mine had gotten hard in the connector, was very difficult to remove(I cut a couple of mine, you will have PLENTY of new line)add the new connectors and new line and connect to new valve) and disconnect the electrical connector(connector is difficult to reach and seperate, the air passage above helps tremendously).
This is where you wish you removed the bumper cover if you didn't.
You will need to seperate the vent wire from the harness. Not hard to do,(pry out center harness lock, pull wire out) but not easy to reach it. You will add an extention wire for(to reach) the new valve. Mount new valve, mount new compressor(the bolts from old compressor will have sleeves on them when you remove them, these were originaly attached to the compressor by a rubber membrane to isolate the vibration; discard these sleeves, you will see them integrated on the new compressor), attach new air lines from new valve. Button everything back up, and you are finished. The new valve will make a noticable whoosh(about five or six seconds long) when you close your door, after stopping from a drive .
If you have not removed the air silencer yet, under the stock air filter and on top of the compressor, remove it first. There is no room to reach the four bolts on the compressor without doing so. Remove the stock air filter housing to get at the silencer(remove air tube(screw clamp)remove maf electrical connector,screw out bolts(housing to frame, not the filter access bolts)(one engine side low, one toward radiator high, loosen one on fender side for an open slot on housing to slide off of); with this out of the way, you will see three bolts around the round air passage to the filter. These are securing the air silencer. Remove these, remove the air silencer through inside fender well. This thing is bigger than you realize, will take some effort to twist it out.
Now the compressor is visible. Remove four bolts,remove four air lines(the plastic air line on mine had gotten hard in the connector, was very difficult to remove(I cut a couple of mine, you will have PLENTY of new line)add the new connectors and new line and connect to new valve) and disconnect the electrical connector(connector is difficult to reach and seperate, the air passage above helps tremendously).
This is where you wish you removed the bumper cover if you didn't.
You will need to seperate the vent wire from the harness. Not hard to do,(pry out center harness lock, pull wire out) but not easy to reach it. You will add an extention wire for(to reach) the new valve. Mount new valve, mount new compressor(the bolts from old compressor will have sleeves on them when you remove them, these were originaly attached to the compressor by a rubber membrane to isolate the vibration; discard these sleeves, you will see them integrated on the new compressor), attach new air lines from new valve. Button everything back up, and you are finished. The new valve will make a noticable whoosh(about five or six seconds long) when you close your door, after stopping from a drive .
PalmettoMarkVIII
New member
It vents because it's lowering, which the car always does after driving it. The car drops it's normal 3/4 inch or so. Doesn't start until door clicks shut.
Edit: grab some zip ties, you'll need them to tidy up the air lines. Short ones will do, the four lines(together) into or out of the new valve are about the thickness of your pinky finger. I mounted mine like most, under the headlight adjustment door. There are a couple of stamped holes there; I used a large zip tie atound the new valve, thru one hole, out the other and zipped it tight.
Edit: grab some zip ties, you'll need them to tidy up the air lines. Short ones will do, the four lines(together) into or out of the new valve are about the thickness of your pinky finger. I mounted mine like most, under the headlight adjustment door. There are a couple of stamped holes there; I used a large zip tie atound the new valve, thru one hole, out the other and zipped it tight.
Anyone got a website or number for the spyder valve. I just finished installing my lowering switch. Works like a charm, I'm very pleased. I feel like I'm driving a different car; love it slammed.
But I know the spyder valve speeds up the compressor, so it would be a benefit for me with speeding up the lowering. Any further info. on this would be awesome.
I want that WHOOOOSH sound, too ! LOL
Jon Ike
95 MKVIII[font color="#CC0000"]
MIDWEST CHAPTER [/font]
But I know the spyder valve speeds up the compressor, so it would be a benefit for me with speeding up the lowering. Any further info. on this would be awesome.
I want that WHOOOOSH sound, too ! LOL
Jon Ike
95 MKVIII[font color="#CC0000"]
MIDWEST CHAPTER [/font]
driller
El Presidente
PalmettoMarkVIII
New member
Small clarification to my instructions above, the vent wire extension goes into the new compressor harness, not the car's harness. The new compressor is EASY to get to of course, since you haven't bolted it in yet. You will pull out the wire from the new (or old, if still working) compressor's attached vent valve, and add the extension wire for the new valve. The car's harness will send normal vent signals, but the new valve will receive these instead.
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Anyone got a website or number for the spyder valve. I just finished installing my lowering switch. Works like a charm, I'm very pleased. I feel like I'm driving a different car; love it slammed. But I know the spyder valve speeds up the compressor, so it would be a benefit for me with speeding up the lowering. Any further info. on this would be awesome. I want that WHOOOOSH sound, too ! LOLJon Ike95 MKVIII[font color="#CC0000"]MIDWEST CHAPTER [/font]
[/div]
I haven't been here for a while so this is the first I've heard of the Spyder Valve.
Does this actually raise and lower the car and can it actually be slammed and is "slammed" and normal hight the only height it can be or can it be adjusted several heights?
Please tell me more.
Have a Great Day!
Mike
New Jersey
http://www.onlinewealth.com/MarkVIII/022904i.jpg
Anyone got a website or number for the spyder valve. I just finished installing my lowering switch. Works like a charm, I'm very pleased. I feel like I'm driving a different car; love it slammed. But I know the spyder valve speeds up the compressor, so it would be a benefit for me with speeding up the lowering. Any further info. on this would be awesome. I want that WHOOOOSH sound, too ! LOLJon Ike95 MKVIII[font color="#CC0000"]MIDWEST CHAPTER [/font]
[/div]
I haven't been here for a while so this is the first I've heard of the Spyder Valve.
Does this actually raise and lower the car and can it actually be slammed and is "slammed" and normal hight the only height it can be or can it be adjusted several heights?
Please tell me more.
Have a Great Day!
Mike
New Jersey
http://www.onlinewealth.com/MarkVIII/022904i.jpg
Love them rims Mike!!! As Driller posted- Click here to find out about the Spider Valve http://www.americanairsuspension.com/SPIDER VALVE.htm
Hi Donny,
Thanks for the compliment. Now all I need is to find an easy way to drop it so it will look much better. Too much "air space" above the tires.
The only thing it says on that site about the Spyder valve is that it's to eliminate moisture but it sounded like some people here were inferring that it would lower "slam" the suspension.
Let me know if there's any other info aout there about what this valve will do for my car.
http://www.onlinewealth.com/MarkVIII/022904i.jpg
Have a Great Day!
Mike
New Jersey
Thanks for the compliment. Now all I need is to find an easy way to drop it so it will look much better. Too much "air space" above the tires.
The only thing it says on that site about the Spyder valve is that it's to eliminate moisture but it sounded like some people here were inferring that it would lower "slam" the suspension.
Let me know if there's any other info aout there about what this valve will do for my car.
http://www.onlinewealth.com/MarkVIII/022904i.jpg
Have a Great Day!
Mike
New Jersey
dirty old man
New member
What the spider valve does actually is to vent the air released to the atmosphere directly instead of thru the dryer and compressor. This prevents buildup of moisture in the system.
This is done whenever the MK8 lowers itself as done stock ie: (1) whe you park, open door, get out and close door (2) when car reaches hiway speed (3) when you remove a load of weight, people, luggage, etc. from car.
To lower further is done easily with sensor lowering (do a search), but be sure you realign front end afterwards or bye- bye tire tread.
All I can add to the instructions given above is to check for leaks thoroughly with a soap and water solution before you button up things,
This is done whenever the MK8 lowers itself as done stock ie: (1) whe you park, open door, get out and close door (2) when car reaches hiway speed (3) when you remove a load of weight, people, luggage, etc. from car.
To lower further is done easily with sensor lowering (do a search), but be sure you realign front end afterwards or bye- bye tire tread.
All I can add to the instructions given above is to check for leaks thoroughly with a soap and water solution before you button up things,
sleeper
Former LOD President
you can also do the "kale mod" or the solenoid mod. This involves wiring up some switches to send power to the wheel solenoids and vent solenoid, and to ground the compressor relay, so that you can control the height of the car from the drivers seat, and even adjust individual wheels if you want.
Ye_Lunatic
New member
I never had to remove the front bumper to install my spider valve and compressor. I took the air silencer out, and removed the air filter box and there was plenty of room through the wheel well and through the hole where the air filter was.
The spider valve is a great investment. The car vents fast and loudly. No more moisture clogging up the compressor.
The spider valve is a great investment. The car vents fast and loudly. No more moisture clogging up the compressor.