suspension rebuild help

B

beerdog

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I am replacing my upped and lower control arms and the stru rod bushings. How do I get the air supply hose off the air spring? Do I just pull it? That does not seem to be working.
 
Since you should exhaust the air from the spring, it's better and easier to just remove the solenoid from the air spring.

Look towards the top of the solenoid. There is a half round metal clip. Pull the clip off and rotate the solenoid counter clockwise (looking up) to the first stop. The solenoid will release and the air will come out (of course the air ride switch in the trunk should be off and the car on jack stands at this point). The solenoid will have popped down a bit to release the air. Only after the air is exhausted, you can rotate the solenoid to the next stop and it will pull out of the airspring.

To reinstall it, just reverse the procedure but make sure that you put some dilectric grease on the O ring so it doesn't leak. Some people replace the O ring with a new one to make sure it doesn't leak.
 
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Just figured that out. Thanks.

Next issue is that the lower air spring bolt will not slid out. Since I am changing the lower arm I am thinking of just taking both out at once and working on the bolt on my bench. Any suggestions? The BFH does not seem to persuasive.
 
I soaked it with PB last night. I got the nut off and the bolt turn but the little factory assembly flag prevented me from turning it. I think I will try removing the flag first.

Thanks for the link.
 
down to the last bolt on the drivers side. Should I remove the master cylinder to get at the rearupper control arm?
 
I hope you have air tools for those strut rod bushings. My BIG 3/4" breaker bar couldn't do it. With the car on jack stands I couldn't get enough umph to utilize the leverage.
 
the 30 gallon compressor is getting a workout today! a 1/2 in impact wrench is definatly needed for the strut rod bolt at the control arm. Pretty much finished the driver side except I cannot tighten the new lower control arm ball joint nut. It spins on half way down the stud and then the ball joint stud just spins alng witht he bolt. The nut came with some pre-applied thread locker. I am thinking that is hanging it up. Any suggestions?????

Figured the drivers side would go quicker but the bolts are even more siezed. Just my luck.
 
I've had trouble with that balljoint nut before. The new nut was a locking crush nut. I just used the old nylock nut. I just barley started the nut (where it was still loose) then hit it with full power from the impact wrench.

Sometimes it helps to carefully put a jack under the balljoint and lift it up a little to help force it in when you tighten it.

My impact wrench won't budge the strut rod nuts. I've used a 4 foot pipe on a box wrench or breaker bar for those.:D
 
When I changed mine, the lower bolt was not, i repeat not, frozen or rusted in place. When the nut was put on at the factory, it was tightened with enough force to cause the surrounding metal to pinch in on the threads. No amount of banging with the BFH would move the bolt. Removing the flag off the bolt head, and backing it out with an 18mm socket did the trick. Once that was figured out, the passenger side took 5-10 minutes to remove.
 
I will try that with the ball joint nut. This is turning into a RPIA. The next big issue is that the control arm alignment adjusting bolt is totaly frozen on the passenger side. Plus, the lower air spring bolt is siezed to the bushing. both spin together and I cant get it out. I was all motivated. The drivers side took way too long, but I was sure I would get the passenger side done in a 2 hours since I now knew what I was doing.
 
thats what i do too, i put a jack under the front spindle and crank up on it then tighten the ball joint nut, with pressure on the new ball joint from the floor jack, the nut will tighten, and not just spin.
 
The one I am worried about is the lower control arm bolt with the alignment adjusting cam. It will not budge. This is the only thing holding me up. should I put some heat on it?

I am not too worried about the lower spring bolt since I can take it out with the arm and at the worst torch it off.
 
If you've got a torch, just cut the nut off of the lower control arm to K member bolt (camber adjusting bolt).

The dealer should have a new bolt, nut, and even the eccentric adjustment washer (or whatever it's called).

I had to replace one of mine because it was so rusted, I couldn't torque it down properly.
 
No torch at the house. I am going to give it another go today. If needed I will take it up to a local shop and have them finish it. If it were not for these bolts this would be so easy.

Do you think heating up the lower air spring bolt will free it from the control arm bushing?
 
Well, after a 12 hour therapy session with Dr.PB, the camber adjusting bolt relinquished it's grip on the nut! But in my euphoria of the moment I neglected to mark the position.....doh. Remembered about 2 seconds into turning the bolt. I do remember that it was about opposite the drivers side. Good thing the alignment shop in only a quarter mile away.

Jacking up the ball joint worked for the drivers side nut.
 
Well...it is all back together. What a learning experience. Also changed the fuel filter while it was all apart. How long does it take for the air spring to reinflate? Should I wait till it reinflates before I take it off the jack stands?
 
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