cold front drops suspension?

Langly

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I'm sure my 1998 Mark VIII LSC doesn't have perfect airtight suspension. But I can usually let it set for over a week before I notice a slight drop. But when an extreme cold front comes thru and then temp drops significantly, along with Barometric pressure, my rear suspension drops to the bottom. Has anyone else noticed this? Should it be expected? Or do you think I have a pretty good leak?

Langly
 
Thanks, I was afraid of that. Obviuosly not a bad leak, but a leak none the less.

Whats the latest on conversion kits? Is this what most are going to? Or is a repair the prefered method?

I hate to sink too much money into it. Advice appreciated.

Langy
 
Rear airsprings are cheaper and easier to replace than front airsprings.:wink:
 
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Langly,
Where are you located? I have a pair of the rear springs out of my '97 I replaced because I had a leaky front one. Replaced all at same time. Buy the one or both rears for $25.00 each. If you are close enough, you could save on the shipping bu picking them up. I don't know what shipping would be until I checked.
 
I appreciate it. But that was going to be my next question. Does anyone perform this work near the Nashville TN area? Unfortunetly, I am not that mechnically inclined, nor do I have the facility/tools to perform such repairs.

This would be my same problem if I chose to convert to coil springs etc. So ... I'm pretty much screwed.

Langly
 
These are not complicated items to install, but for sure you don't wan to get hosed by some one either. If you can't find a good trust worthy shop thru you friends etc. I would go down to your local auto parts store such as Advance Auto or Napa and ask them who are their preferred shops in your area. These guys sell them parts and know who is doing the business and taking care of things. If you do a search you will find instructions on changing these out. It's a simple job.
 
Thank you Roadboss. I am new to the Nashville area and therefore have not had the opportunity to make many contacts as of yet. I do work with a guy who knows a local mechnic that sounds trustworthy.

I may get brave and try it myself. Unfortunetly, it seems like whenever I attempt a vehicle repair, I screw something up and then I'm left with a vehicle in parts. It's a lot harder to get a mechanic to fix my screw up, rather than starting it from scratch.

I guess if anything, I should be able to tackle the rear. But from what I have read, I will leave the front to a more qualified mechanic.

Thanks again,
Langly
 
If you can change a flat tire, you can probably handle changing the front struts... they aren't THAT hard.

The rears are "FISCHER PRICE" easy, even a ten year old can do it.
The rears are "SNAP TITE".. meaning they have no bolts holding them in.
They have a snap fit for the bottom and a small pin on the top...
tools required for the rear are a SCREWDRIVER to lift the top pin and pliars to compress the snap tite things on the bottom of the bag

Rear bags are STOOPID easy, fronts aren't much more difficult.
 
Okay man. Famous last words, but wish me luck. I will need it.

I'll let ya know how it turns out. May be a couple of weeks before I find the quality time and/or good weather to do it. But I'll let you know.

Langly
1998 Mark VIII LSC
 
It doesn't say so, but it is recommended that you replace the "o" rings in the solenoid valves before reinstalling them. It's almost guaranteed that they will leak after they go back in.
 
:cool: You may or may not have a leak. If your car drops after several days regardless of weather conditions, you have a leak. If it drops due to temperature or barometric pressure drops, you may not have a leak. The owner's manual on the Mark VIII states that in cold weather, your suspension may drop due to temperature drops reducing the air pressure in the springs. My 1996 Mark VIII has brand new front air spring/shock absorber units and still has the original rear springs. I have had it tested at a Ford dealership service center and there are no leaks. However, it still drops on cold nights. This in perfectly normal. If it is a warm night, it doesn't drop an inch. Still, you should have it checked.
:)

As far as installing new front air spring/shock units, it is easy as proverbal pie. I have it down to an exact science. I can change out my front air springs in less than 1 hour. If you have two people working on it, you can do it in 30 minutes. Here's how:

1. First, open the trunk and turn the air ride switch off. It is on the driver's side of the trund behind a small carpet panel. Next, jack up both sides of the front end. Both front wheels need to be completely off the ground. Remove the front wheels and put them aside (you will need them later).

2. Open the hood and remove the plastic covers on the shock towers. Then remove the three nuts that hold the top of the shock to the fender. Do this on both sides. It saves time. Put the nuts in a safe place.

3. Remove the nut that secures the air spring/shock assembly to the lower control arm. In order to remove the bolt from the lower control arm, you will need to turn the front brakes to get the steering tie rod end out of the way. Simple. Remove the bolt from the lower control arm and put the nut and bolt in a safe place.

4. At this time, the air spring/shock absorber assembly should move around pretty freely. However, you can't remove it yet. You have to let the air out of it first. The simplest way to do this is to remove the solonoid from the spring housing. It is located at the top of the air spring just below where the spring mounts to the shock tower. Removing the solonoid is pretty straightforward. Simply use a flathead screwdriver to remove the retainer clip and rotate, pull down, rotate, and pull out the solonoid. This will make sense when you see how the valve is inserted. The solonoid valve will still be connected to the air line. Let it hang down out of the way.

5. Now you are ready to remove the air spring/shock absorber assembly. Simply grab the shock at the bottom, pull out toward the spindle so it will clear the lower control arm, then pull it toward the rear of the car, and straight down through the upper A-arm, behind the lower control arm, and out of the car. Easiest thing in the world to do.

To install the new air spring/shock absorber units, simply reverse the process. The new air spring/shocks will come with new o-rings to put on the solonoid valve. Make sure you install these! If necessary, you may have to put a little petroleum jelly on the solonoid valves to make it easier to intall them in the new air springs.

I have done this three times on my car. It is so easy it should be against the law to actually charge money to do it.

I replaced my first set when the car had 100k miles on it and the front end started leaking down every night. I used Arnott spring/shock units that were brand new with a 1 year warranty. They sprung a leak at 14 months.

The next set I installed were used 1998 units that I got on Ebay. They worked fine for a while.

The last set I actually bought from FORD and they were ungodly expensive, but they are still holding air after 3 years. Never had any problems with the rear springs.

I hope this has helped you. And I hope I haven't rambled too much.
 
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