1998 Mark VIII back on the street after 5 years in the garage

sleepy hollow

Registered
Greetings from Virginia. I just registerd and passed inspection on my FIL's 98 Mark VIII. 168,000 miles. He was a fighter pilot of F-89Cs in the early 1950s patrolling the north pole from Greenland. He is now 92 and not really up to driving, but I've given him some thrills chauffering him around. He loves this car. Made him feel like a pilot again I suspect given the cockpit feel of the whole Mark VIII setup.

He and my MIL now live with my wife and me. I am blessed to be comfortably retired and am now able to work at the things I want to. Work is dignity and satisfaction for me so i'll never really retire. Long list of projects I did not get to when I was working for salary. I like golf but probably will never get down my list to that activity. For me that's what I prefer actually.

Here is what I have done so far to get her running:

New battery, air filter
Changed oil and power steering fluid, brake fluid still good and clear. Receipts showed brake job just prior to the covid-initiated 5-year dormancy.

AT was acting very sluggish. Barely made it from his house to mine (12 miles) so I could work on it. Reverse needed a significant goosing to move at all.
Changed AT fluid including torque converter. Drained about 7.5 qts. Took 12.5 qts to refill. drivability problems solved! No idea how she could be down 5 qts. Unless they did not refill after previous pan drop and fluid drain. Old filter looked pretty new.

Inspected brakes and suspension all around. She was very loose on the road requiring constant "trim" adjustments to keep her in lane.
Front control arms and lower ball joints shot. Also sway bar links. Lower stuff looked ok. Nothing obviously wonky there.
Found a $95 kit on Partsgeek for all decrepit parts.
Installed new control arms, sway bar links, and pressed in new lower ball joints. Now she is much firmer feeling and goes where I point her. That was quit a workout, but very satisfying when completed. Those back upper CA tower bolts are worth a few expletives. Especially when tightening one ratchet click at a time. Arghhh.

Neither power door lock worked. Ordered rockauto replacements and had a very fun time installing them (not). But they work now. Of the three key fobs he had, one works for three of four buttons (does not lock doors), one works for one button (trunk) and the other is dead. Not worth fixing. Ordered 2 new key fobs for $13. We'll see if they work as advertised.

Did a quick mechanical compounding of the black finish which pleased/surprised me greatly as it improved the look 100%. My FIL was smiling broadly when I showed him. Also sanded the headlights to reduce the oxidation by 80%. Tucked the "wrinkled" rear window trim on left and right side under itself into the drain channel beneath and it looks much better. I won't do much more than that unless someone has a better suggestion.

Tab so far is <$500. $130 of that was the AT fluid.

Left to do:

Brakes shimmy when stopping, and I noticed some uneven patterns on the front rotor faces but no obvious warping. Will try sanding the rotors and pads to see if the uneven surface compositions is causing the pulsations or not. If I don't feel any inprovment, I will probably just get new pads and rotors and be done with it. That is <$100 at rockauto.

AC does not work. Will post a thread on that in the HVAC section as I am scratching my head about this...

Lots of oil underneath but nothing dropping on the ground. Will clean and see what happens. Hope it's not the oil pan gasket. Not sure if I can do that in my garage. But, nothing like a new challenge.

Thank you all in advance for any advice and suggestions you may have as I seek it from you in threads I may post.
 
Wait, how could I forgot about the dreaded bland door actuator. I fixed that as well and now the heat is toasty warm inside. Took me about a day to fix as I go slow and deliberately and still make mistakes. Usually correctable :).
 
Welcome! Sounds like a nice car, thanks for bringing it back. Your oil leak might be the oil filter adaptor plate gasket, it's common for those to leak and they leak more when the engine is cold.
 
Thanks for your note, billcu. I will look into this possibilty as soon as I get the AC figured out. BTW, I managaed to completely eliminate the brake pulsations. The rotors appeared to be brand new with no signs of wear or scoring, but were discolored. I took my random orbit rotary sander with 80 grit sandpaper and slowly went round and round on the 4 rotor surfaces. Probably took 90 minutes to do and about 3 sanding discs. There was clearly a glaze or patina of some sort on them that gradually was eroded away. The color went from gray to mottled gray/silver to all silver tone and they looked almost like new when I was done. I also scuffed up the pads with 100 grit paper to "reset" their surfaces. Result: smooth as silk stopping now. What a great pleasure to have her handling well all around now. Patience was the watchword for this effort. Perhaps could have used 30 or 60 grit to start, but 80 was what I had so that's what I used.
 
Hey, great write up Sleepy Hollow. With those issues, I'd think we'da [had] the same car, but you have a great handle on it. I think the most obnoxious issue is that braking.

I am anxious about the front suspension work. I had similar work done on a tbird, and a year later its starting to make shitty noises. I think this was common and predictable but I haven't studied enough
 
I got mine from a retired traveling salesman 199,000 miles and now it's pushing 208,000. Love the car and get a lot of compliments, welcome and all the work is worth it on these cars enjoy !
 
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