Back In The Saddle Again!

izackary

Nomad
Lucky you guys, you get to deal with me a LOT more often now!! :D

Today I pulled the trigger on the black '96 LSC I'd been eying the past week. It has its issues as some of you know, but the price was too good to pass up, not to mention the mileage (91k). A Carfax report revealed that it was a fleet car at first, racking up about 31k its first 2 years. The second owner put the other 60k on over 13 years. The car was bought from a small independent dealer with about 40 cars on the lot. Originally the asking price was $2995, but with the air ride leaking, I bought it for $2300 as-is. So here is where I'm at right now:

The engine purrs nice and smooth and pulls hard through the entire rev range, no issues there. The transmission shifts very well, with the exception of a low RPM shudder which to me says it is time to flush the transmission fluid out and replace it all with new Mercon V + filter. I checked the fluid tonight: the color is a reddish brown, like dried blood, with no strong smells. If anyone remembers my final months with my '94, the tranny fluid started always smelling like it was on fire.

The suspension, as some of you know, is hit or miss. At the dealer, the nose would sit on the ground after about an hour of being parked. The compressor still lifts it right back up, but the funny thing is that switching off the air ride keeps the car up while parked. So a leak has to be traced. I am preparing for the worst but hoping for the [strike]best[/strike] less-than-worst. Other than the air issues, some ball joints need replacing. I've only had good looks so far at the uppers up front, the passenger side of which looks rather recent (green boot? Moog?) but the driver side boot is torn up. The brakes have a bit of noise; I have a feeling the rotors have gotten a little warped at some point, but it stops just fine and doesn't drag at all with my foot off the brake pedal. The wheels are chrome directional 10-spokes, but the finish is cracking between the lug nut holes. Tires are all matching Michelin MXV4s with good tread still on them, the same tire I used to have on my '94.

The interior is Light Graphite, and mostly in very good condition. The leather is all flawless for 90k, no holes or cracking. I plan to get some conditioner worked into the seats sometime soon. The plastic trim is all good as well. It has the factory phone built in, which will be removed, but I may wire the mic and button into a navigation head unit down the road. However...the rear edge of the headliner has been duct-taped over, so I will address that down the road. The driver seat seems to be missing the power control switch, so I have to look into that; the power glide feature isn't working on that seat, which is likely related. Both lumbar supports work, and the passenger seat works 100%. The moonroof moves just fine, however it has an issue staying seated closed at highway speeds, so that will be looked into. Last and probably least, the tach is stuck at about 1200 rpm, but the left turn signal indicator as well as the high beam indicator are both sitting rather low in their holes, so likely something has just slipped down onto the tach needle holding it still.

The HIDs seem to work fine, however they are pointed very low, so I will have to fix the mounting of the assemblies, most likely. The driver-side side marker has moisture inside it, and the cover is peeling from the passenger side, so those will have to be replaced down the road. Some saw the rust/rot behind the front passenger-side mudflap, so I will be hunting for a whole black fender, most likely. Otherwise the paint has some dull areas, but it seems to be 90-95% fine.

That about covers it all! It will take a little while to get the flaws straightened out, but even so, I'm pretty happy with everything! Especially after 30 months of being without my own car! I will try and get some photos up soon, but only AFTER I get the rear wheels swapped and oriented properly! NOT before!! :D
 

95blklsc

New member
a low rpm shudder......is it when the converter is locking up? Make sure you take a look at the accumulators and springs and put updated ones in if it needs it. Also, look at the trans pan and make sure it is the kind with the dimple for a sump. My friends 93 didn't have one on it until a few weeks ago, I just never noticed it since I never looked at his trans really.
 

SCTBIRD1173

Mark my Bird!
Congrats for getting back into a Mark finally! Even though I barely drive mine (so far) I couldn't imagine not owning one.
 

izackary

Nomad
Thanks, guys!

a low rpm shudder......is it when the converter is locking up? Make sure you take a look at the accumulators and springs and put updated ones in if it needs it. Also, look at the trans pan and make sure it is the kind with the dimple for a sump. My friends 93 didn't have one on it until a few weeks ago, I just never noticed it since I never looked at his trans really.
I plan to do accumulator and spring upgrades very soon as well as a Jmod, after which I will do a flush. It is exhibiting all the symptoms listed in threads where a full drain and flush fixes the shudder. Thanks for the tips!

This morning I also found on amazon.com the Silverstar ST turn signal bulbs for the front. The ones that have a blue tint to the glass, but still light up amber. I had them on my Mazda and loved them! Apparently they are discontinued and/or no longer available at auto parts stores.
 
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95blklsc

New member
Thanks, guys!



I plan to do accumulator and spring upgrades very soon as well as a Jmod, after which I will do a flush. It is exhibiting all the symptoms listed in threads where a full drain and flush fixes the shudder. Thanks for the tips!

This morning I also found on amazon.com the Silverstar ST turn signal bulbs for the front. The ones that have a blue tint to the glass, but still light up amber. I had them on my Mazda and loved them! Apparently they are discontinued and/or no longer available at auto parts stores.

Get the proper amber ones that are silver coated. You will get a ticket if a cop sees a blue one. I have ones that are plated but light up amber in my lincoln and corvette, when the bulb is off it just blends in with the rest of the housing reflector.

This isn't the right bulb, but this is what I'm talking about for a coating.
http://www.amazon.com/PY21W-Chrome-...RYZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1329854556&sr=8-1
 

izackary

Nomad
I looked into those for the rear signals in my Mazdaspeed. But I read they are awful dim. However I did have the same sylvanias in the front and never a problem.
 

95blklsc

New member
They are a little dim, but I like that you can't see them at all when they are off. I remember looking at some in auto zone and they were chrome-purpleish looking. They looked like they belonged on a riced out civic. ;)
 

driller

El Presidente
I plan to do accumulator and spring upgrades very soon as well as a Jmod, after which I will do a flush. It is exhibiting all the symptoms listed in threads where a full drain and flush fixes the shudder. Thanks for the tips!

This morning I also found on amazon.com the Silverstar ST turn signal bulbs for the front. The ones that have a blue tint to the glass, but still light up amber. I had them on my Mazda and loved them! Apparently they are discontinued and/or no longer available at auto parts stores.
I would do the accumulator upgrades and flush before the Jmod. Once the trans seems OK, then go ahead with the Jmod.

Sylvania dropped the ST line of bulbs. The best I've found to use are available from Stealth Auto.
 

billcu

Head Moderator
Glad to hear you finally got another Mark VIII!

Good luck with it, it sounds like a great car.

Check the spirit levels on the headlights. They might just need a little adjusting.:)
 

izackary

Nomad
They are a little dim, but I like that you can't see them at all when they are off. I remember looking at some in auto zone and they were chrome-purpleish looking. They looked like they belonged on a riced out civic. ;)
Good, perfect for a Mazda ricer like me. :D

I would do the accumulator upgrades and flush before the Jmod. Once the trans seems OK, then go ahead with the Jmod.

Sylvania dropped the ST line of bulbs. The best I've found to use are available from Stealth Auto.
Thanks for the tip, JP. I was trying to figure out today in what order I should do this, and obviously I want to do it very soon. I guess after the flush, I wait for the shudder to completely vanish, then try and salvage what transmission comes out during Jmod day? Or just pour in new Mercon V and not take a chance?

Glad to hear you finally got another Mark VIII!

Good luck with it, it sounds like a great car.

Check the spirit levels on the headlights. They might just need a little adjusting.:)
Thanks, Bill! I will get pictures soon, but the headlights are pointed WAY down. To the point I am flipping on the high beams to see as far as the lows should get me! I have to look for threads that show how to get the casings out and remounted properly. Last night I was able to reclip one of the support bars for the front grille; I can tell the lights were replaced at some point, and not very carefully.
 

driller

El Presidente
Thanks for the tip, JP. I was trying to figure out today in what order I should do this, and obviously I want to do it very soon. I guess after the flush, I wait for the shudder to completely vanish, then try and salvage what transmission comes out during Jmod day? Or just pour in new Mercon V and not take a chance?
I would wait for the shudder to vanish. You can reclaim the fluid screening it through a paint filter.

Don't forget a transmission cooler. ;)
 

izackary

Nomad
Bill, you rebuilt your seat motors and such, right? Was it in a 1st gen? I am trying to get my driver side going again, but after reading about 30A fuses, I have yet to see one anywhere. However the module doesn't light up at all, nor does the test button have any effect on anything....

Today I did make some progress, though. I got my tachometer unstuck by shifting the gauge face up and regluing. :)
 

billcu

Head Moderator
If nothing on the seat works, it's probably not a motor.

I'd check the module, wires, and check for power first. I think the gen 2 is the only one that has a fuse in the seat.
 

izackary

Nomad
I wish I had my DMM here! The wires appear OK. I haven't seen any fuses in either panel burnt out. The mirrors and the lumbar pump work fine as well. But auto-glide doesn't work, period. The power seat control switch is all busted apart, though, so I am also wondering if all the power to the motors goes through it, even auto-glide functionality. The passenger seat works 100% though. Interestingly, the memory seat SET button glows very dimly with the module plugged in...
 

izackary

Nomad
Well I saw the passenger seat module test light flash 5 times when pressing the button down (now that I know about it and its location) and then again 2 times shortly after. I fear the driver module will do nothing. I am already calling dibs on the pieces off parts cars on other forums.
 

SCTBIRD1173

Mark my Bird!
The most fun part is working out all the bugs in the beginning! :rolleyes:

Since my Mark is a 4th car to me my list is still pretty damn long so I'm ready for your help when yours is all fixed up... :D
 
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