Quarter Window Leak
- Thread starter enriquei
- Start date
tixer
Lincoln Evangelist
I was hoping someone would reply with specifics, but here goes.. From memory. 
You need to remove the rear seat and seat back, seat belt shoulder strap attachment point, and then the internal quarter trim panel. The glass is held in by a few studs from the rear.. Remove the nuts, and it lifts out.
You need to remove the rear seat and seat back, seat belt shoulder strap attachment point, and then the internal quarter trim panel. The glass is held in by a few studs from the rear.. Remove the nuts, and it lifts out.
Thank you. What sealant should I use? How long does it take (Ball park?). Would you consider it to be A, B, or C skill level?I was hoping someone would reply with specifics, but here goes.. From memory.
You need to remove the rear seat and seat back, seat belt shoulder strap attachment point, and then the internal quarter trim panel. The glass is held in by a few studs from the rear.. Remove the nuts, and it lifts out.
tixer
Lincoln Evangelist
It shouldn't really be all that tough, but do allow yourself some time to figure out how everything interconnects.
Removing all of the parts to get to it will require some patience, and some quality time sitting inside the car. My only advice is to avoid the temptation to take shortcuts. If something is in the way, remove it rather than trying to work around it.
On the bright side, you'll still be able to drive the car with the back seat all taken apart.. At least until you get to that window..
As for the seal, I'd go with one of these two, which both seem purpose-made for automotive windows.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-08609-Window-Weld-Urethane-Cartridge/dp/B000FW61EW
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000AL6WLA
I'm assuming the Permatex will be available pretty much anywhere, but being from Minnesota, I'm a bit partial to 3M.
I should stress. When I had mine apart, it was to remove the headliner.. I've never actually removed the window, so if you get into it, and this looks wrong, post here and say so. We'll figure it out.
Removing all of the parts to get to it will require some patience, and some quality time sitting inside the car. My only advice is to avoid the temptation to take shortcuts. If something is in the way, remove it rather than trying to work around it.
On the bright side, you'll still be able to drive the car with the back seat all taken apart..
At least until you get to that window..As for the seal, I'd go with one of these two, which both seem purpose-made for automotive windows.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-08609-Window-Weld-Urethane-Cartridge/dp/B000FW61EW
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000AL6WLA
I'm assuming the Permatex will be available pretty much anywhere, but being from Minnesota, I'm a bit partial to 3M.
I should stress. When I had mine apart, it was to remove the headliner.. I've never actually removed the window, so if you get into it, and this looks wrong, post here and say so. We'll figure it out.
SCTBIRD1173
Mark my Bird!
I've taken them out of T-birds but never Marks. They aren't bad to get out once the nuts are removed on the inside; just make sure the seal is hot or warm if you ever want it to be able to separate from the body. Good luck!
While it may seem obvious where the leak is I would try to verify its location before removing the window.
Does your car have a moon roof? It could be the drains.
Have a partner with garden hose spray the window area only while you observe from the inside.
Remove inside trim around window to pinpoint the leak.
Neil
Does your car have a moon roof? It could be the drains.
Have a partner with garden hose spray the window area only while you observe from the inside.
Remove inside trim around window to pinpoint the leak.
Neil
No moon roof. I hopped into the back during the car wash. It's coming from the top of the quarter window, maybe the 1 O'Clock position as you're looking out.
tixer
Lincoln Evangelist
A bit of visual documentation, compliments of the Michigan mark VIII meet.
Step 1) leave the car in the sun to soften the seal.
Step 2) drink 5 beers..
step 3) Once you get the nuts off, here is the Ford recommended removal procedure. Grab a friend, and assign duties as you see fit
Step 1) leave the car in the sun to soften the seal.
Step 2) drink 5 beers..
step 3) Once you get the nuts off, here is the Ford recommended removal procedure. Grab a friend, and assign duties as you see fit
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Lvnmarks
quandoomniflunkusmoritati
If you can pin point the leak, is this something that can be sealed with out removing the window?
I have removed a few dozen and there not hard at all but I would think it would be easier to plug the hole then remove the whole window and potentially create another leak.
I have removed a few dozen and there not hard at all but I would think it would be easier to plug the hole then remove the whole window and potentially create another leak.
I didn't get to it this weekend. I did get the 3M tape though. I haven't been able to pinpoint the leak. I know it's coming from the top of the window, but that's it. I thought about spraying some sort of expanding foam in there, or black silicone... but that seems like a really half-assed way to fix it.
tixer
Lincoln Evangelist
This. Other than the time involved in taking the interior apart, I think you'll regret fixing this half-way.
Remember, this may have been Jeremi's place, but these two did it in the driveway, with basic tools, while drinking..
Of course we'll see what happens when Beerdog runs it through the next car wash.
Here's a few more photos.
Also.. it's worth noting.. that photo where he has his feet on it. That's firm pressure.. Not kicking. For the love of all that is holy, don't kick that window..
Once you have the window out, find a good solvent of your choice to remove the remaining seal, and clean the paint. You'll find a bunch of dirt on that ledge hidden by the window..
Here's what the OEM window was sealed with:
And here's what it looked like once applied to the window..
Next, install glass, and tighten nuts. There's a "stop" on the bolt, so they only tighten so far...
Remember, this may have been Jeremi's place, but these two did it in the driveway, with basic tools, while drinking..
Of course we'll see what happens when Beerdog runs it through the next car wash.
Here's a few more photos.
Also.. it's worth noting.. that photo where he has his feet on it. That's firm pressure.. Not kicking. For the love of all that is holy, don't kick that window..
Once you have the window out, find a good solvent of your choice to remove the remaining seal, and clean the paint. You'll find a bunch of dirt on that ledge hidden by the window..
Here's what the OEM window was sealed with:
And here's what it looked like once applied to the window..
Next, install glass, and tighten nuts. There's a "stop" on the bolt, so they only tighten so far...
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Here is the basic outline
1. Remove back seat bottom. It just pulls out. Push it back and up at the same time.
2. Remove the back seat back by removing the 2 lower 13 mm bolts from the floor. Push up on the seat and it will come out.
3. Slide off the coat hangar hook and remove the hidden phillips screw. Screw is long so use a cordless drill.
4. Remove the upper rear seat belt opening trim piece. Then remove the hidden phillips screw. Screw is long so use a cordless drill.
5. Remove the 2 Torx T50 seat belt bolts. I think both have a trim piece covering the bolts.
6. Pull out the rear quarter interior panel. You will not remove it from the car. Just pull it to the side.
7. Remove the window retaining nuts.
8. Remove the vertical weather seal that is on the window. The one that seals it when the door is closed. Just pull it off.
9. Push the window off from the inside.
10. Remove the old butyl seal. Wipe the window clean with degreaser.
11. Clean the car seal surface with degreaser.
12. add the new butyl seal to the window. Stay in the guide lines. Stay on the outside of the bolts. Put the seal joint where seal ends meet on the bottom of the window. Make sure the to over lap the seal material and smooth it out so there is not a large bulge in the seal.
13. Gently install the window. Ideally have someone push on the outside while someone tightens the bolts a little at time while alternating around the window.
14. Reinstall the interior.
1. Remove back seat bottom. It just pulls out. Push it back and up at the same time.
2. Remove the back seat back by removing the 2 lower 13 mm bolts from the floor. Push up on the seat and it will come out.
3. Slide off the coat hangar hook and remove the hidden phillips screw. Screw is long so use a cordless drill.
4. Remove the upper rear seat belt opening trim piece. Then remove the hidden phillips screw. Screw is long so use a cordless drill.
5. Remove the 2 Torx T50 seat belt bolts. I think both have a trim piece covering the bolts.
6. Pull out the rear quarter interior panel. You will not remove it from the car. Just pull it to the side.
7. Remove the window retaining nuts.
8. Remove the vertical weather seal that is on the window. The one that seals it when the door is closed. Just pull it off.
9. Push the window off from the inside.
10. Remove the old butyl seal. Wipe the window clean with degreaser.
11. Clean the car seal surface with degreaser.
12. add the new butyl seal to the window. Stay in the guide lines. Stay on the outside of the bolts. Put the seal joint where seal ends meet on the bottom of the window. Make sure the to over lap the seal material and smooth it out so there is not a large bulge in the seal.
13. Gently install the window. Ideally have someone push on the outside while someone tightens the bolts a little at time while alternating around the window.
14. Reinstall the interior.
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