Stiff shifter

Lownslowlsc

New member
It's annoying. I really gotta put in some strength when selecting which gear I want it in. It's been like this since I bought it. I've seen some random g2 m8 vid's that make me think it's a somewhat common/normal problem.

I'm no ussy but come on.. The other 2 car's I'm used to driving go through p r n d 2 1 like butta.

So is this the "tube" I need to spray into? You can't see it but there is an opening.



Can I lube it too much? I want to get in there pretty good, just want to make sure nothing inside said tube can be effected by it.

Should I use:

Wd-40

Or I have some Walmart brand(SuperTech) "lubricant" as it say's..I think it's similiar to wd-40.

I have white lithium grease but I doubt it would do much as it doesn't "flow".
 
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DLF

New member
Well, that is the end of the shifter cable....

But, are you sure that the cable is the issue?

I'd disconnect the cable at the transmission (a single 13mm nut), and then move the lever by hand on the transmission and try the shifter while it's disconnected, to see where the problem actually is.
 

Lownslowlsc

New member
I'm not positive that the cable is the problem. Some have mentioned in the past that I should try lubing it up. Just wanted to make sure this was the correct spot and that it was ok to spray away in there.
 

billcu

Head Moderator
I'm fairly certain it is the cable.:)

I had the same problem on my red Mark VIII, replaced the cable and it was like shifting a new car again. The rubber coating was worn off and rust got in.

I diagnosed it like DLF said, disconnect it and see.

My CE is doing the same thing now, I have a good spare I'll be swapping in.:)
 

tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
My '97 does this too, but I wasn't aware it could be any different until I drove the "DadSax CE" last summer. (which was awesome for any number of reasons..) I guess I should add that to the list of things to check when the car comes out of storage.

what does the cable assembly look like? Would a regular bicycle shifter cable work? I have some slick teflon-coated ones. :D

Edit: I just got the feeling that the first post contains a photo that I can't see here at work. I'll look when I get home.
 

Lownslowlsc

New member
My '97 does this too, but I wasn't aware it could be any different until I drove the "DadSax CE" last summer. (which was awesome for any number of reasons..) I guess I should add that to the list of things to check when the car comes out of storage.

what does the cable assembly look like? Would a regular bicycle shifter cable work? I have some slick teflon-coated ones. :D

Edit: I just got the feeling that the first post contains a photo that I can't see here at work. I'll look when I get home.
Same here, except i've never had the pleasure of trying it on another m8.

The photo isn't of the whole cable, just the point where it meet's the shifter from the floor. :)

Thank's for the help guy's. I'll be taking a closer look at it this weekend.

p.s. If it is the cable, could the area where corrosion begins be "cleaned" out and re-sealed ? Forgive me as I have no idea what the entire cable assembly look's like.
 
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billcu

Head Moderator
That looks a lot easier than mine was. A young lady drove my car and had to use 2 hands to shift it.:D

Here's a couple photos of a gen 2 cable. It's disconnected at the shifter. I can't find the photo of my bad gen 1 cable.
 

Attachments

Lownslowlsc

New member
Thank's for the pic's Bill. I prefer that visual vs crawling under it :p

I'll assume your CE shift's similarly?

Anywho, I jacked her up this afternoon and snooped around a bit. No visual cut's or crack's, all look's in order. Maybe I just expect it to be smoother then it is. :confused: Mines a little easier going down into the gears and equal going back to park. Perhap's i'm just going a little kookoo.
 
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Lownslowlsc

New member
Thank's for the pic's Bill. I prefer that visual vs crawling under it :p

I'll assume your CE shift's similarly?

Anywho, I jacked her up this afternoon and snooped around a bit. No visual cut's or crack's, all look's in order. Maybe I just expect it to be smoother then it is. :confused: Mines a little easier going down into the gears and equal going back to park vs the video. Perhap's i'm just going a little kookoo.
fixed.
 

tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
Any resolution on this one? I think I'm in the same place you were when you posted. I took apart the top side and confirmed that the trouble isn't with the shifter handle, but with the cable or the transmission.

I was wondering if I could just spray some silicone in that hole and "work it." or if maybe a light oil would be better.

I haven't disconnected the bottom side yet. I'm still in my work clothes.. If I don't have to, I won't. :)

2013-07-02_17-45-06_480.jpg
 

Mad1stGen

Booster
The problem is at the transmission shifter arm. The part is made out of bare steel and rusts in between the MLPS and the trans case causing the stiff shifter feel. You can disconnect the cable at the trans to verify this. Good luck !
 

M Darrah

New member
Thanks, I'll be checking mine as well. I was just telling Mike the other day about that. It's been a problem for a while. The flood probably didn't help matters. ;)

Then all I have to figure out is what's wrong with my steering and all will be right in the world.
 

Lownslowlsc

New member
Any resolution on this one? I think I'm in the same place you were when you posted. I took apart the top side and confirmed that the trouble isn't with the shifter handle, but with the cable or the transmission.

I was wondering if I could just spray some silicone in that hole and "work it." or if maybe a light oil would be better.

I haven't disconnected the bottom side yet. I'm still in my work clothes.. If I don't have to, I won't.
I disconnected the cable at the trans last summer and the stiffness went away, haven't messed with it since as I didn't want to dig in without knowing what to look for.

As for lube? I tried silicone, wd-40 and a couple others iirc. :)

Thanks for the info Jeremy.
 
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tempforce

New member
the stiff shifter will cause a stuck key issue as well….
most lube shops do not lube the shifter linkage, door hinges or any of the common small lube items that used to be included.
dealerships are just as bad as the quick lubes...
 

tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
I thought I'd pop back in and confirm Mad1stGen's answer. I disconnected the cable underneath, and the cable moved freely.

I'm afraid that I can also confirm that it'll take more than just drenching the shifter arm in WD-40 to free it up... :D A project for another day..
 

tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
Just eyeballing it, I suspect that if I had bigger ramps, I'd be able to take a better look at it and find the sticky spot. It appeared servicable, but I was wedged in pretty tightly at the time. Hence my dousing it in wd-40 and hoping for the best. (and being subsequently disappointed.)

Looking for some photos on-line though, it makes more sense. It appears as though the MLPS is in the way. If It were removed, (note the alignment before removal) I'd think you could lubricate the linkage without taking things apart further.

Here's why I think that. This photo is off of an Explorer forum, but ours is similar. with the exception that the shifter cable is more of a "ball and socket" affair. There's no retainer nut. If you'll look at the surface rust on the pivot and arm, I'd think it is safe to assume that there's more of the same behind the sensor.

1727338_600.jpg
 
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