Hello. I installed my 4" dynomax driveshaft tonight, and when i turn to the left very slightly it rubs my gas tank and makes a terrible noise. I've dropped the gas tank down and can see where it's rubbing, is there any solution for this? Has anyone else installed a 4" driveshaft and has any clearance issues with the gas tank? Or any issues? I'm wondering if anyone knows what the solution to this is. I'm thinkin about duct taping some 1.5" foam insulation and putting it between the gas tank and the body of the car to provide more space for the driveshaft, and adding washers to where the bolts that hold the straps over the gas tank as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated as i'm waiting for some answers to help me out. Thanks alot!! It's appreciated!
Help! New D-shaft Hitting Gas Tank!
- Thread starter 98MK8
- Start date
sleeper
Former LOD President
hitting the tank, or the driveshaft loops?
There should be one or two driveshaft loops that sit between the tank and the driveshaft. The shaft should hit these long before they hit the driveshaft. And there's no reason that the driveshaft should hit the tank when turning and not when going straight, I don't understand that at all.
The fix will be spacers. Why did you got 4"? what size is stock? The dynotech MMC shafts were perfect, stock size, good strength, no vibes, but I know you can't get them anymore. I don't see why a good stock size steel or aluminum driveshaft wouldn't fit the bill, though.
There should be one or two driveshaft loops that sit between the tank and the driveshaft. The shaft should hit these long before they hit the driveshaft. And there's no reason that the driveshaft should hit the tank when turning and not when going straight, I don't understand that at all.
The fix will be spacers. Why did you got 4"? what size is stock? The dynotech MMC shafts were perfect, stock size, good strength, no vibes, but I know you can't get them anymore. I don't see why a good stock size steel or aluminum driveshaft wouldn't fit the bill, though.
Well I actually think i incorrectly installed the gas tank. I don't think it was in the right spot. But i took paint sticks and sized them to the pad on top of the gas tank, there's 2 pads so i duct taped these paint sticks together to form another pad and placed them on top of the pads on the tank and installed it. No problems. Only question I have now is, how do i tell if i need to spin my drive shaft around 180 degrees? How much vibration will there be if it needs to be turned 180 degrees? Alot of vibration? Or just a slight vibration but ALOT better than stock? Thanks.
It is an MMC driveshaft i must have got one of the last ones. It's a Dynotech. There seems to be a slight vibration but only when i hit the brakes, but one of my rotors is bad and theres a very slight vibration when im driving, but OMG way way way way better than before, just need to know if anyone has needed to turn their aftermarket driveshaft and what it was doing before they turned it, if it was vibrating really bad or what. Thanks for the help!
It is an MMC driveshaft i must have got one of the last ones. It's a Dynotech. There seems to be a slight vibration but only when i hit the brakes, but one of my rotors is bad and theres a very slight vibration when im driving, but OMG way way way way better than before, just need to know if anyone has needed to turn their aftermarket driveshaft and what it was doing before they turned it, if it was vibrating really bad or what. Thanks for the help!
I would suspect rotors, wheels and/or tires before the Dynotech shaft. These cars are extremely intolerant of any wheel imbalance.
If it is the driveshaft,it should be possible to accelerate past the vibration since it will be a speed variable harmonic unlike any wheel issues.
If it is the driveshaft,it should be possible to accelerate past the vibration since it will be a speed variable harmonic unlike any wheel issues.
What do you mean by ur last paragraph? But even if my rotors are warped would that cause a slight vibration while cruising?? I don't think it's the driveshaft...is there any special way to light the rear of the driveshaft up to the mating plate on the rearend where the 4 bolts are? I put all 4 bolts in and u could move it around just a little but i tryed to center it as best i could and tightened them up. Thanks!
He means that a driveshaft vibration will only occur within a certain mph...55-65 mph for example.
And yes, warped rotors can cause vibration, but more commonly, wheel vibration is the worst from an unbalanced tire/wheel. This can result from an improper balance at the tire shop, a bent wheel, flat spots on the tire caused by skidding, or unevenly wearing tires.
Roadboss
On Work Release
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm
Use this link to find a Hunter Road Force Balance machine near you as this type of machine replicates actual loading on the tire while balancing, and I have found it far superior than the typical balance jobs.
Use this link to find a Hunter Road Force Balance machine near you as this type of machine replicates actual loading on the tire while balancing, and I have found it far superior than the typical balance jobs.
Driveshaft / Fuel Tank Clearance
Driveshaft / Fuel Tank Clearance
Old thread here, but I had a transmission shop install a 4" Dynotech driveshaft and it rubbed on the fuel tank. They had to jiggle the tank around on the mounts a bit until clearance was no longer a problem. They told me about this because even after the fix, they felt the shaft was still really, really close to the tank. They wanted me to know where to look in the event it started rubbing again, and making noise. Part of the problem in my opinion is where Dynotech welds the balance weights on these shafts. The weights end up above the fuel tank, right where you don't want them.
Driveshaft / Fuel Tank Clearance
Old thread here, but I had a transmission shop install a 4" Dynotech driveshaft and it rubbed on the fuel tank. They had to jiggle the tank around on the mounts a bit until clearance was no longer a problem. They told me about this because even after the fix, they felt the shaft was still really, really close to the tank. They wanted me to know where to look in the event it started rubbing again, and making noise. Part of the problem in my opinion is where Dynotech welds the balance weights on these shafts. The weights end up above the fuel tank, right where you don't want them.