HOTLNC's Blackstone Report

HOTLNC

HOTLNC

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Oh, oh. HOTLNC is showing her age. At 230,369 miles, I'm showing 35ppM IRON. The average is 19ppM and my last report a year ago was 17ppM. This could be a sign HOTLNC's cylinder liner is starting to wear. They suggested dropping the oil (Mobil 1) use down to 5K miles.

The good news is the oil was not contaminated and all other wear indicators were within spec.
 
How often do you change your oil, I assume you are using Mobil 1 5w-30? Mobil 1 HM 10w-30 is the only available weight in the 30 weight range, a little on the thick side but should be fine for your 200k+ motor. Also remember the averages they use are based on a certain mileage interval, I would venture to guess is much shorter than how long you are using your oil for. What oil filter are you using?
 
I need to get back into that oil report habit.

I'd probably freak at the first sign of trouble! :eek:
 
Well the time before I went almost 10K. This time almost 7K. I use 5w30 when I can get it. Now, the high mileage stuff is 10W30. But, down here in the sweat bowl, 10w30 is OK.
 
Did you change the filter at the 10k intervals? You need the mobil 1 filter if you want to run the oil for that long. That could explain your higher #s.
 
I agree, a regular filter will go into bypass mode with 10k miles on it which means it's no longer filtering. You need either The M1, K&N, Amsoil, or Ford Racing oil filter for 10k oil changes.
 
Serge, a filter will NOT go into bypass unless the filter material is clogged. No way it will clog in 10k miles....unless it was the first time the oil had been changed in 50k miles!!

It's a pressure thing, not a timed thing.
 
With over 200k miles an oil filter might possibly clog with 10k oil changes, especially a cheap oil filter. In any case, even if it doesn't clog, it is still recommended to run the best oil filter you can for extended intervals.
 
46callaway said:
With over 200k miles an oil filter might possibly clog with 10k oil changes, especially a cheap oil filter. In any case, even if it doesn't clog, it is still recommended to run the best oil filter you can for extended intervals.
Click to expand...

I don't understand.

Why would a cheap filter clog easier than a premium filter.
I would think the cheap filter would collect less dirt letting the oil flow uncleaned, as a premium filter might clog easier by trapping more dirt.

I don't know.

Either way why not change your filter more often? Even if you don't change all the oil. Filter plus one quart, not that expensive.
 
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46callaway said:
Cheaper filters typically have less filter media. Less filter media = less capacity to hold dirt.
Click to expand...

So your saying all filters trap the same size particals.
OK, I guess.
But why not change the filter more often? why wait 10,000 miles.

Cheap, kinda easy(on these cars). Good maintenace.
 
Because if you use a high quality filter like the ones I mentioned there is no need to change them more often, they are good for 10k-15k miles. You can even reuse them if you change oil at 5k intervals. I don't but they are fully capable of doing that. And no, not all filters trap the same size particles. In conclusion, use the best oil filter you can buy for your car.
 
Cheap filter have weaker media that filters less and degrades quickly to the point of almost no filtering. The better filters stage the filtering, that is there may be two levels or more of filtering. First larger stuff, then smaller stuff, etc... This gives you several layers of media to pick up on (more surface area traps more crap).
 
46callaway said:
Less filter media = less capacity to hold dirt.
Click to expand...

Lol, LESS media would me LESS dirt trapped and more dirt passed through the filter....meaning it wouldn't clog...ever.

An oil filter will not clog and go into "bypass" mode unless there is seriously something wrong, not purely from lack of maintanence, expecially only after 10k...even on a cheapy cheap filter.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html#avoid

LOL....I buy the Napa golds...

NAPA-They sell two lines of oil filters: NAPA Silver and NAPA Gold. They are both made by Dana (Wix) and there is no obvious difference between them. They may have different elements, but NAPA does not state that this is the case. The only difference is the price! haha
 
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No, actually there is a difference between the Napa gold and silver. The gold's have a silicone ADBV vs. nitrite (sp?) ADBV and the endcaps are stronger on the gold. There might be some other differences as well, probably slightly more pleats for the media etc. The Napa/Wix Golds are good filters comparable to the stock Motorcraft FL820s filters but not quite on the level of M1, K&N, Amsoil and the Ford Racing filters. All of these premium filters go for $10 bucks and up though. The Ford Racing one is the one I use on my 98 LSC, it is basically a Motorcraft FL820s with everything upgraded, it has the most surface area of filter media I have ever seen.
 
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Ok, that makes sense...so I'm paying 6 bucks more for a more pliable piece of rubber, haha.

That link had a HUGE amount of negative info on those Fram Filters....very intruiging! Serge, do you get the FR filters from Ford or online?
 
I got mine online, I bought a case... you can't get them from any Ford dealership, they have to be one that sells SVT/Ford Racing parts, i'm not sure if they have one of those in Sac. They will rip you off though, probably charge like $15 bucks for one filter. I got a really good deal on a case of 8 off ebay which came out to be around $10 per filter. I still have 6 left so if you are ever in my neck of the woods I can hook you up with a filter for the same price I got it for, J. You can also contact http://www.buyfordracing.com/, they probably have good prices on them if you want to buy a case yourself.
 
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