camshaft cap assemblies

Does anyone know if the camshaft cap assemblies are head specific? That is to say, can the cap assemblies from one head be used on another head??

Let me look.......*Jeopardy music starts*






"Times up." CRAP!!! I'm NOT done! "Ummm....what is donkey sex, Pat." LMAO

Install and seat camshaft cap cluster assemblies. Hand-start:
twelve 52 mm bolts into intake camshaft caps.
seven 52 mm bolts into inboard side of exhaust camshaft caps.
six 42 mm bolts into outboard side of exhaust camshaft caps.




Tighten camshaft cap cluster retaining bolts in sequence shown to 8-12 Nm (71-106 inch lbs.) .
Loosen 25 camshaft cap cluster retaining bolts approximately two turns or until head of bolt is free.
Retighten all bolts in sequence to 8-12 Nm (71-106 inch lbs.) . NOTE: A knotted rag or similar item must be positioned under valve to hold it in the up (closed) position.
Install all exhaust valves and intake valves removed from cylinder head.

CAUTION: Do not install rocker arms until cylinder head is installed on engine. Valve damage may occur if rocker arms are installed.


Based on the pictures.....I'd say right/left sides are specific.

I figured that much. But aren't the 'caps' the journal bearings for the camshafts? I know if the journal specs are out the head is trash - so there can't be much to play with.

Here's the deal... a set of heads I'm looking at has a couple camshaft cap assemblies that are cracked and broken. If a set of caps from another head are used, will that work?

Yes, the caps are half of the bearings. I don't know how close the tolerances are but, maybe you could get them checked out at a head shop?

Any idea why these caps are broken in the first place? I'd be concerned about that.

Yeah....cracked caps aren't good at all.....sounds like someone ran it low on oil and heated those bearings up good!

I would ask on corral before you invest any time and money in those heads. I think they are machined with the head.

JP, you need some B heads to work on ? I've got two sets that are just taking up space. You can pick them up during the annual MI meet LOL.

JP to anwser your question: I have had a set of heads that needed a new cam journal assy and have put one on from another head that i had. The cam still spun with ease after the new cap was torqued down.

Now this might be a rare case, but the caps are dowel located and align honed at the factory. Just because it worked for me one time does not mean it will work all the time.

Ponyfreak said:

...the caps are dowel located and align honed at the factory. Just because it worked for me one time does not mean it will work all the time.

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That's exactly what my thoughts were.

I've found out the actual cap journals are fine - it is the webbing between them that is broken for some reason. I would still think they would be fine for a set of cores however. The price is pretty right.

The webbing breaks because they are jsut thin pieces. I have a lot of heads that have this problem. The set of heads on Johns car have quite a few of them broke. The reason they are all interconnected is to save time and money from not having to dowel locate every pair. It probably also reduces vibrations and strengthen the assy when they are all tied in togeather.

Doing it the way they did it saves even more time when a ford tech jsut slaps the cams in there and doesn't have to worry about alignment.

On a rebuilt engine I wouldn't worry about it and leave the origionals in there. When you assemble the valvetrain you have to check the camshafts and make sure they turn freely before going any further.

The new Ford GT heads have 24 single dowl located and numbered cam towers. No two towers are connected. This was quoted to be done so that higher lift cams, which makes no sense to me since a .484lift cam can be used in a B or C style head without cam tower mods.