94 mark8, where's the code

so if i go straight pipes will i set car alarms off?
cause that what im going for haha.
and its still smog legal cause of the cat's right?
 
Haha....yes it will set alarms off, and yes its still SMOG legal. Are you in Cali?
 
Who said anything about headers Max?

Nate...Yeah, my step bro lives in OC. Now I know why you keep asking about things being "smog legal". Straight pipes are smog legal, but having no mufflers isn't "legal" as far as the vehicle codes go in Cali. You "can" get a ticket for no mufflers, but if you don't remove the 3rd cat like I did than you should be just fine. You can start by just removing the muffs and see from there. Heck, you may even be able to save yourself some money by going under there with a sawsall before hand and hack them off yourself.

As far as SMOG tests are concerned, you can modify ANYTHING after the 3rd cat.....so no muffs IS smog legal. :D
 
You can definitely pass smog with the Ford Racing shorty headers but you won't see much gains with them, maybe 3-10hp.
 
They don't make the FR shorty headers for a Mark 8 so you still won't pass smog. I don't think there will be/is any header that can be smog legal because in order to install it you MUST remove a catalytic converter, so I think it'd be VERY hard for them to pass that through the EPA/CARB standards. If they did, they would probably have to sell them with a new "cat" for you to install in the old ones place.
 
i dont know how much my dad would like me cutting it it with his sawza(how ever thats spelt) im sure he'd rather have me go to a shop and do it.
my buddy's dad owns a shop they do all the mods on their jeep in their shop so im gonna see if they will do this for me. hopefully i wont be getting any tickets. haha
 
Using the grounding method you described above, the check engine gave one quick flash a pause one long flash a pause 8 quick flashes a short pause then 9 quick flashes so I think that's a 1 8 9 does this make sense to any of you???? thanks in advance. :)
 
sandabbe said:
Using the grounding method you described above, the check engine gave one quick flash a pause one long flash a pause 8 quick flashes a short pause then 9 quick flashes so I think that's a 1 8 9 does this make sense to any of you???? thanks in advance. :)
Click to expand...

Or 11 and 89?

When the “Check Engine” light blinks during the test you will get several different blinks, the separation time between blinks is used to indicate what information is being displayed.

The KOEO(Key On/Engine Off) codes are given first, then repeated.The KOEO codes are followed by the CM(Continuous Memory) code(s).

There should be...

1/2 second intervals for each digit
2 second intervals between digits
4 second interval between each code

The KOEO codes are repeated,

1/2 second intervals for each digit
2 second intervals between digits
4 second interval between each code

...then a six second pause, a short blink and a six second pause(the "separator" between KOEO and CM codes)

...followed by the continuous memory codes using the same timing...

1/2 second intervals for each digit
2 second intervals between digits
4 second interval between each code

11 is system pass.
89 is continuous memory code for Converter clutch solenoid circuit failure.
189 is continuous memory code for Left side still lean, at richest adaptive limit, during part throttle.

Recheck the code procedure, several times if necessary, to be certain of the timing and properly reading of the codes given.
 
Hey Driller,

Nathans dad here.

Left side lean is what it is, Just hooked up a Snap on code reader that I got from a friend. It too said left bank lean. The check engine light goes on for a short time then off while driving. Most times when on the gas hard.Could this be a O2 sensor?

We still have a hard to start problem when cold. We replaced the fuel filter and spark plugs, both helped but did not make the problem go away. I didn't get any codes other than stated. I thought, before getting a reader and doing the ground test, that a MAF or TPS sensor was to blame or maybe the temp switch. I have to say, I'm stumped by this one!

I want to thank all that have given Nathan and my wife the info to relay to me when I get home from work! You guy's have been GREAT!
 
Hey Nates dad, no problem on the help! Thats what we're here for.....

I was going to say it couldn't be a Code 11 because you only mentioned 1 flash and a pause, and normally it wouldn't do a code 11 until AFTER the other codes came up.

Here are the possible causes for a P0189...

Possible Causes:
Fuel pressure. (need pressure reading)
Fuel injector. (not likely)
Air intake. (ignore for now)
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. (probably dirty)
Fuel injector electrical circuit. (not likely)
Fuel filter. (changed already)
Vacuum. (listen for hissing)
Air filter. (check condition)

I HIGHLY recommend cleaning the MAF sensor, this is one of the most important sensors on the car concerning driveability issues and it is VERY sensitive to contamination. Looking over the diagnosing proceedures for this code, the MAF is the most likely cause, that and fuel pressure.

To clean the MAF, you need to remove the airbox, than remove the inside shield by prying with a small screw driver, than remove the 4 bolts securing it to the box. Now you can take a small Q-Tip with rubbing alcohol on it and VERY gently roll it around on the little element inside the MAF adapter. If you have access to a Torx(tamperproof) bit, you can remove the sensor and clean it better. Be very carefull with the sensor, it can bend easily. If the cleaning doesn't fix anything, and your fuel pressure checks out, you may have to bite the bullet and buy a new MAF sensor. Here is what the MAF adapter looks like..

PIC.jpg


Here is a link to show you how to remove the silencers later on....
http://mark8.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=15124&highlight=cold+air

Do you have access to a fuel pressure gauge, if so, check pressure as described above and run the car at idle. Check gauge and note the pressure. Now turn the car off and see how long it sits while holding that pressure...it should hold for awhile, if it doesn't than you have issues going on that will be affecting your hard start symptoms.

Replacing the O2 sensors will NOT fix ANY starting issues, and the reason you are getting the P0189 is because the O2 sensor is working properly. Its telling you that the left side(bank #2) isn't getting enough fuel, therefor running lean.

The TPS won't cause the P0189 code, and if it was going bad, it "should" throw a code. Also, a coolant temp sensor can cause funky stuff, but if you can check the temp with the scanner, and compare it to your gauge or a temp gun, you can verify its working properly.

Anyways.....check fuel pressure and let us know what you find.
 
I would suspect unmetered air as well as possible low fuel pressure. The left side will almost always show lean first.

Clean the MAF, check and verify fuel pressure and inspect carefully for vacuum leaks and/or intake leaks between the MAF and throttle body.

I wouldn't rule out a faulty injector. Try a mechanics stethoscope on each injector and listen for the 'tick-tick' - be aware of any difference from one to the others. You may want to temporarily unplug each injector while running to verify operation. You'll be looking for the "odd man out" on the left bank if it's an injector problem.

The "hard to start" issue may or may not be related. My approach would be to fix the known code(s) first, then recheck for codes and then finally evaluate the start up condition. If you have a extreme A/F ratio issue such as a massive air leak or one or more injectors causing issues, it could very well cause hard to start issues.
 
Nate's dad again,

Ok guy's, pulled and cleaned MAF, found only two screws holding the air filter cover on, replaced with new screws. Also pulled tube to throttle body on Saturday and found the gasket to be less than perfect, but reinstalled it with some sylicone sealant on the plastic tube side.(gasket wsa in one piece, but sides showed some cracking.)
Did key on fuel psi check, at valve, NO FUEL comming out! How the hell is this think running at all???? There is no prime noise comming from rear of car. Is there a fuel pump relay that needs to be replaced?? Just seems that if the car WILL start and run, the pump is ok. Maybe just weak?? MAN I DO NOT WANT TO TAKE OUT THE FUEL TANK IF I DON'T HAVE TO! What a P.I.T.A.!!Oh BTW, Air filter is OK.
Thanks for the help!

P.S. Does Chilton make a manual for this thing?? Haynes does not!
 
You can get a Walbro 255lph real cheap, around $100 bucks. Dropping the tank is easier than you think just make sure there's not much gas in the car. Gas is heavy.
 
I don't know about the manuals, but a lot of us have the Ford CD which can be obtained on Ebay.
 
Back up a second.

Without cranking, turning the key on only runs the fuel pump a second or two. It does not run continuous.

Cycle the key on/off(3 seconds on time) a half dozen times and check for fuel pressure.

What are you using to check for pressure?
 
driller said:
Back up a second.

Without cranking, turning the key on only runs the fuel pump a second or two. It does not run continuous.

Cycle the key on/off(3 seconds on time) a half dozen times and check for fuel pressure.

What are you using to check for pressure?
Click to expand...

All I did was push in the schrader valve under the hood. Every time I have done this, nothing comes out. Air or fuel, there is no pressure on this valve. I have done this afe ter the car is off for 20 min....no residule pressure is there. today I left the key on while pushing on the valve and.......no pressure.
Whole thing seems odd. about to either get a machanic from work to come over or take it to an indie shop(know someone that has one.). I usaly don't take my cars to any shop except when things come up that are electrical.
I'll go out with Nate and cycle the key a few times to see what happens.
 
Well, after cycling the key several times, Nate said he could hear the pump in the back doing it's job. But after several cycles, pushing on the schrader valve still produced nothing. Huh:banghead:
 
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