Fuel lines

driller

driller

El Presidente
Staff member
I want to run AN fuel lines from the fenderwell up to the motor. I don't want to replace the underbody fuel lines(yet).

What do I need to buy and can I get a fuel filter in the engine compartment somewhere?

I know I can get the adapter fittings from Russel to go from AN to the stock fuel rail, but how do I get from the AN line back to the stock fuel line? The only connection I see is at the fuel filter.
 
You know all the cool parts! :cool:

I don't know if I could relocate the filter, but it sure could be more convenient.

Thanks for the info.
 
I don't see why you can't relocate the fuel filter....all you have to do is find the correct line fittings...I've seen them on Summit and than you can use the stock filter if you wanted.
 
has anyone relocated the oil filer and where to? I have changed the oil on MANY different cars and Marks ar one of the worst to fish out.

No...this is not Trix. Mike is using her loggin.
 
Hmmmm.... I have no problems changing my filter :p

oilfilter.jpg



But I have seem some move the battery to the trunk and then place a dual filter setup where the battery was.
 
Yea, Ford wanted to make sure that the cross member gets thoroughly oiled each and every oil change. Stunning piece of engineering work.
 
My oil wasn't bad at all to change until I put a larger front sway bar on. Now I have to snake the filter in and out from the top.
 
Roadboss said:
Yea, Ford wanted to make sure that the cross member gets thoroughly oiled each and every oil change. Stunning piece of engineering work.
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I make sure that mine doesn't get oiled at all by using Aluminum foil. Just lay the foil up there to form a drain into your pan. Unscrew filter until it drains - rest - unscrew some more -rest -. Remove, turn filter upside down to drain. Rest some more...go back and finish job. All the oil is in the pan, NOT on cross member and all over driveway!
 
95blklsc said:
haha I don't know if I should expect it to be easy or a PIA. I'm leaning towards PIA for some reason.
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Alternator and hoses are major PITA, but oil filter is relocated in front of the ABS pump.
Drop the bottom valance (4 screws) and it's too easy as it's positioned pointing down so no leaks, no spills.
It's not like I had a choice to relocate it though. BTW, it's an FL1A.
 
Mad1stGen said:
Alternator and hoses are major PITA, but oil filter is relocated in front of the ABS pump.
Drop the bottom valance (4 screws) and it's too easy as it's positioned pointing down so no leaks, no spills.
It's not like I had a choice to relocate it though. BTW, it's an FL1A.
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GREAT!! That sounds like a nice set up. I have a few of the FL1A filters too from the inline 6 on the old F150 I had.
 
JP,

I have the adapters that you need to go from AN to the stock fuel rails. I'd sell them to you for 1/2 of what they sell for at Summit. They are in like new condition.

I have ran SS braided hose on one mark VIII and on John's car we ran -8 feed and -6 return aluminum lines. If I had to do it again I would go with aluminum hardline 10" from the front of the frame, behind the front tire and then run SS braided line the rest of the way up. I can explain why I feel this way if you want to give me a call and chat about it.

If you run a stock fuel tank you need to run an aeromotive or equivelant 10micron filter up front. The perfect spot for this is right where the stock filter is located.

Feel free to give me a call anytime. I can give you helpfull tips on what items to order as well as flaring tools needed, etc.

BTW those special parts are scheduled to be removed in less than a month......
 
Thanks Joe, just put those adaptors on my shelf! :D

I sort of want to do this fuel line project in segments. I'll do the fenderwell/engine sections first. Later, I plan to replace the stock lines from the fenderwell to the fuel tank.

I'm not sure when I'll get around to this as I have a couple other projects that are on the front burners.
 
This is not a segmented project. You need to do it all at the same time. THe good news is that I have several fuel pickups on the shelf that I can weld AN fittings onto to make your swap seemless. Again for you just pay for the fittings and we will weld it on there and give you the assy free.

Overall this is not a difficult task, but needs to be thought out to eliminate downtime. A rookie mechanic could do this in a weekend easily.

Before you tackle this project I suggest purchasing a rivet nut kit. Once you use this tool just one time you will be hooked. It will speed up the project and yield a professional look.
 
Parts:
-8an hose X 10' $41.95
-6an hose X 10'$ 36.96
6 - -8an straight X 6.95
4- -6an straight X 4.88
2- -8an unions X 4.95
2 -6an unions X 4.95

25' aluminum fuel line -8 20.95
25' aluminum fuel line -6 16.95

Summit fuel flow filter SUM-230104 26.95

Russel AN to fuel rail adapter $40 for both.

Quickly running through my head this is just about everything that you need besides mounting hardware such as rivet nuts and wiggins rubber clamps to mount the fuel lines. The clamps can be purchased at Home depot or any electrical supply house for 2.99 for a package of 4.

Weld on fittings for fuel tank - 12.95 for both
 
May I ask why you are wanting to do this anyway? The stock fuel lines will support more power than the stock fuel rails. Best I can remember they crap out around 420 rwhp in a Mark VIII. I have personally made low 400rwhp through the stock lines and rails. (nitrous)
 
Ponyfreak said:
May I ask why you are wanting to do this anyway? The stock fuel lines will support more power than the stock fuel rails. Best I can remember they crap out around 420 rwhp in a Mark VIII. I have personally made low 400rwhp through the stock lines and rails. (nitrous)
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Really? I must've messed up the calculations or mis-measured the stock lines. I forget what the max was but it was less than 400 if I recall, it was in the high 300's. :confused: Or are you quoting actual numbers vs. my calculated numbers?
 
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