Overdrive lockout modification

Melmark93

Registered
This is in reference to the following link:

http://www.intermotive.net/odi1.htm

Someone found the price of this was $190, to which I posted:

Like every other Gen1-er I just pop it off every time I pull it into
gear. But, I seem to recall that the circuit schematic shows the OD
button circuit as "active high" logic. It's near +12v until you
close the switch and pull it to ground (logic 0). This toggles
the circuit off, where it remains even after the button is released
and the voltage at the input goes back up. Press the OD button again
(grounding to logic 0) and it toggles OD back on.
In logic circuits, if you want to make sure they turn on/power up in
a certain mode you use a power-on reset circuit. This is nothing
more than a resistor and a capacitor (in series) connected between
B+ and ground with the logic circuit connected by a second resistor
(for current limiting) to the midpoint of the RC.
http://sigcon.com/Pubs/edn/por.htm
At power-up the cap is at 0 volts and looks like a logic 0, this
would pull the OD input low just like the button. However in a few
seconds the cap charges throught the resistor from B+ and becomes
logic 1, but the OD doesn't care since it responds only to logic 0.
The OD button is free to toggle it back low any time you want to
turn it back on.
A little experimentation is required to get the component values
right.
It would be really annoying to pay almost $200 for a little plastic
box, three parts and a bit of wire.
THERE - I've sat on this bit of info for 7-8 years, now it's out,
someone prove me right or wrong!

Mel C.
93 garnet/grey X2
Garage Queen w/ Ugly Twin

Note: The editor of the article badmouths the circuit, but as they
say, "This ain't rocket science." and it works 90% of the time.
 
ndoghouse makes those.. and he isn't charging 200.00 for them.

His does OD and TC or JUST OD or Just TC, whichever you want.
 
JP, I'm surprised you haven't caught my error.
I checked the shop manual last night and I remembered it wrong.
The switch pulls the input up to B+ and is "active high", or the reverse
logic of what I thought. I'll have to experiment a bit to see if the power-
on-reset circuit can be adapted to that.
It's difficult to build a stable/predictable circuit when the power source
comes on, then gets "browned-out" by the starter.
Tommy is right, the OD and TC are identical circuits, what works for one
will work for either.
Any clue what circuit ndoghouse is using?

Mel C.
93 garnet/grey X2
Garage Queen w/ Ugly Twin
 
Any clue what circuit ndoghouse is using?

Mel C.
93 garnet/grey X2
Garage Queen w/ Ugly Twin

NO idea, but I can email him a link to this thread and see if he'll chime in.

he's built them for first gen mark 8's, 03-04 mustangs and I believe he has one in an 05-06 mustang as well.

if I remember correctly he said he "put a scope" on the system and found out what was sending what signal to "What".

GREAT GAZOO {ndoghouse) where are you?
 
TC/OD mod

TC/OD mod

Here I am! Thanks for the note Tommy. IM at werk now so will post later this eve on the details. I use a 555 timer. Yes the starter wreaks havoc on most circuits. Also when you go from start back to run on the ignition switch. What works is holding the signal high for about 6 seconds until the computer finishes doing its thang. Then when all is stable if the line is held high all will be fine. I drop the signal back to ground after about a half of a second. Ill post a schematic later. Later mustangs are reverse logic but much the same circuit. I have been using one for at least a year now and works perfectly. Parts are cheap Rad shack stuff. Probably no more than $10.
More later
 
Here is an early version of what I did. I have since totally eliminated the first stage. Dont need the big arse capacitors shown in the pic either. Was trying to get over the starter "Brown-out". The first stage holds everything low until the computer is done then the second generates a pulse. For some reason the 556 dual timer does not work as well as a single 555??? Dont matter now anyway as its not needed. Also tryed power on reset and had no luck. New schematic with new values later.
 
Hey Mel..
You have PRP and a 4 position switch.
it wouldn't be hard to create a tune that with a "flip of the switch" wouldn't allow 4th gear to engage.

Maybe put it in your 3rd positon on the chip..3rd position equals no upshift to 4th.
The 3-4 gear change is targeted by MPH and RPM, you would just need to move both those points to an RPM and MPH that you wont reach..and WALA..
4th gear lock out...
When you want 4th you could easily just switch to "another tune" that would allow 4th gear to engage.

Just a thought from the far side, since you and I were already talking about PRP stuff on another board and via email.
 
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