Diablosport Deltachip anyone have it installed?

AbrahamLincoln said:
people were telling me to see where the stock rev was at? i dont like reving my engine... i probably wiped out my bearings? i did it maybe 3-4 times to see what was going on. wtf i hate this.
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Who told you to check the rev limiter in nuetral? You check while you are in gear, like 1st gear, or even in drive at WOT. Your engine is probably fine unless it is now knocking. Just don't rev it in nuetral that high again! 3000-4000 rpm max and not often!
 
are you saying i can take the chip out with out removing the whole ecu from the harness and opening it up? i can just pull it down from mounting thing still attatched, and pull out the chip? (key out of the ignition of course)
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
what do you mean now knocking?
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Knocking (also called pinking or pinging)— colloquially detonation—in internal combustion engines occurs when combustion of the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder starts off correctly in response to ignition by the spark plug, but one or more pockets of air/fuel mixture explode outside the envelope of the normal combustion front. In non-diesel combustion engines, the fuel-air charge is designed to be ignited by the spark plug only, and at a precise time in the piston's stroke cycle designed for the engine. When Detonation (Knocking) occurs two or more combustion fronts will exist and their resultant collisions produce a sudden rise in cylinder pressure and a shock-wave which will reverberate around the cylinder[1]. The peak of the combustion process no longer occurs at the optimum moment for the four-stroke cycle. The resulting shock-wave reverberates in the combustion chamber, creating the characteristic metallic "pinging" sound, and pressure increases catastrophically. It can range from hardly noticeable to complete engine destruction.
 
took the chip out, the car seems to run a little cleaner - less engine noise. Other than that it feels exactly the same, did the shift test in 1st gear, same as when the chip was in. it actually feels faster - but that could be that its a little colder out and i have an intake ??? i dunno chip is definetly not doing ****. on a side note why is it so hard to make a name on the other markviii.org i always get deleted for some reason.
 
ok, now that i took the chip out, started it... put the chip in, started it... did this a couple times in park to get a feel if anything was actually happening. The only difference i noted is that when the chip is in, the fan came on. Other than that i couldn't get a feel for it either way. its pretty cold here in pa, the engine was already warm, so i dont think the fan would come on for stock reasons so thats one thing I am going to note.

I put the chip in, unhooked the battery... I am going to give it a good half hour before I turn it on. If anyone can comment on this I would appreciate it.
 
There should be no question if the chip is working. So...

1. The chip is not working.

or

2. Something is wrong with the stock car that precludes the chip from doing what it should.

I've always advocated making sure your car is operating properly before any mod, including a chip.
 
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1. Nothing is wrong with my car, no check engine lights... ran perfect when I got it. It was completely stock when I got it. It came with a stack of documents, only had one owner - a DR. I even have the original window sticker.

2. LMS website now says they sell Powermaxx chips, they sent me a diablosport.

3. I dont know where the octane plug is, but I am going to assume its still given the previous statement. Where is the octane plug - I will check it right now.
 
The octane plug is a small plug into the end of a 2 wire harness connector under the plastic cover on top of the drivers side strut. I don't have access to my manual at the moment or I would give you the wire colors.
 
Once you find it, there should be a small "plug" in the connector. The plug is removed to retard timing. This is usually to determine if there is a fuel octane problem when diagnosing engine performance. With the plug pulled out, you should notice a definite reduction in power as the timing retard is quite significant.

If you find the harness connector with no plug - you found your problem.
 
i just went out and checked what i think it is - is it under a plastic cowel on the driverside fender - a cowel with two plastic phillips... everything under there looks stock, theres two connectors with what may be plugs plugged in - both have two wires going in - ones two red or orangess wires, the other has one greyish wire with red and i think green wire - i dont remember. am i in the right spot?
 
does anyone have a schematic or picture of this because I am kind of confused. It appears to be all there. I am going to assume its there because the car is pretty fast. - with or without the chip
 
NO, DO NOT pull the Octane plug. On your vehicle it adds 3 degrees of spark after all other calculations are completed in the stock programming. Unless Diablo has added that parameter it is still the same. Then even if they have added that parameter you have no idea if Geno changed it or even has access to it. You are having enough trouble with the vehicle's chip as it is, no use adding in more problems.

I've explained this before and people are not listening. On the Mark 8s different years and even in the same years with different EECs the Octane pin/plug is programmed to do different spark. There isn't a set or common known spark value for every Ford that has this feature. So most people assume that just because a curtain model Ford is set up to pull 2 , 3 or 4 degrees of spark when the Octane plug is removed it's the same with all Fords. It's not, you will get yourself into trouble with that mind set. Then you also need to know if the dealer/tuner has made a change to that parameter. So don't go assuming it will pull out timing just because someone else said theirs does or thinks theirs does.
 
Educate us Lonnie, if I have a completely stock Mark (Gen II in my case), what would removing that plug do for me - or to the car? What if it was a completely stock, Gen I?
 
I would need to know what the EEC codes were. Like I said it's different between each year, model and EEC.
 
WOW...complicated!! Glad you are here!! So if anyone has an other than general question about that plug, you (or anyone answering) would need the EEC code from off the cover of the module. This info should go up as a note/sticky somewhere in the tech/faq folder!! Would save you having to explain it to us all the time.
 
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