Best wax?
- Thread starter calisonic
- Start date
Any tips on where to get that?
LeoC2
Registered
http://www.zainostore.com You'll need Z2 as the polish and I highly recommend Z-CS for the seal, amazing stuff. For the detail spray the best is Z-8. With those 3 you're all set.
Just read the instructions that come with it.....You don't need ZAINO brand clay, just go to AZ or any good car parts place and they have it right next to the car polish.
tbirddmnd
Registered
I'd like an opinion on the claybar
I'd like an opinion on the claybar
I did it on my 97 LSC and it came out smooth to the touch and clean in appearance, better than it was before. I'm in the process of polishing as well.
Over on another forum where I belong there is a guy there who says he's worked with thousands of cars, painting them and bringing the shine back. This guy states that claybar will leave residue on your car if not done right, that is, with enough of the lube:
<< non amonnia glass cleaner works well for the clay bar lube.
as far as polishing goes, thats my method. if you want your car to shine, scratch free, a rotary buffer, a wool pad, and 3M perfect-it 3000 compound will clean the paint quicker, faster, and scratch free. i disagree that it rubs the dirt around. and to say it removes a layer of paint is a bit misleading. it is abrasive, but it polishes. if you want to remove old clearcoat scratches, it does that too. the clay doesnt. Ive tried all these products on thousands and thousands of cars. Ive found that the clay bar alone leaves a super fine haze of scratches that has to be filled by wax. when the polishing process is done, theres no need to wax.
that said, I agree that with the elbow grease, the clay bar does leave the paint feeling very smooth. a very noticable difference. I guess i prefer the buffer cause i have one. thats what professional painters use for exterior detail.
the 3m rubbing compound is PN-05936. to be followed by Swirl Mark Remover PN-06064. if the paint has heavy scratches/oxidizing, start with extra-cut compound, PN-06060. i dont like the extra cut, but it has its place.
remember seperate pads for each >>
Regarding the claybar and his process he goes on to say:
<< imo, each has its place, I guess it depends on the outcome you want. if you want to clean your paint, the clay bar is good and sorta fun (for the first hour). and on that note, the buffing process slings compound everywhere, the driveway, your belly, every crevice on the car (read: mask off cowl) that requires a good wash afterwards with a detail brush. also, I cant buff a car in direct sunlight, compound dries too fast. the advantage is when my 3 step buffing process is done, you dont have to wax it to shine it, you might wax it to protect it. I have expensive paint on my car, and i never wax it. never. I waxed 3 panels once and those three were dirtier than the others the next day. the main advantage to a buffer, at my house, is for a few extra bux, i can bust out the air sander with 1500 grit and make clearcoat scratches disappear. not fill them and hide them, but make them go away.
ill explain my bias against the clay bar: customer comes in with new rolls royce. black paint, flat as glass (colorsanded and buffed, at the factory) and scratch free, but it got some type of overspray/fallout/whatever. i use a clay bar all over the trunk, and when youre done, and its dry, theres a light haze that wasn't there before. now I have to buff it to make it match the other panels. I feel that detailers use wax to hide things and it just washes off. and as a painter, its my opinion that online pics do nothing to reflect the true paint quality. >>
Like I indicated, I used the Turtle Wax Ice Clay Bar System on my 97 LSC and didn't notice any residue. I did follow it with another wash and some Meguiar's polish but I didn't get to finish the whole car. I do have some ZYMOL that I might put on with my orbital buffer.
Isn't the "best wax or polish" thing a bit subjective though?
I'd like an opinion on the claybar
I did it on my 97 LSC and it came out smooth to the touch and clean in appearance, better than it was before. I'm in the process of polishing as well.
Over on another forum where I belong there is a guy there who says he's worked with thousands of cars, painting them and bringing the shine back. This guy states that claybar will leave residue on your car if not done right, that is, with enough of the lube:
<< non amonnia glass cleaner works well for the clay bar lube.
as far as polishing goes, thats my method. if you want your car to shine, scratch free, a rotary buffer, a wool pad, and 3M perfect-it 3000 compound will clean the paint quicker, faster, and scratch free. i disagree that it rubs the dirt around. and to say it removes a layer of paint is a bit misleading. it is abrasive, but it polishes. if you want to remove old clearcoat scratches, it does that too. the clay doesnt. Ive tried all these products on thousands and thousands of cars. Ive found that the clay bar alone leaves a super fine haze of scratches that has to be filled by wax. when the polishing process is done, theres no need to wax.
that said, I agree that with the elbow grease, the clay bar does leave the paint feeling very smooth. a very noticable difference. I guess i prefer the buffer cause i have one. thats what professional painters use for exterior detail.
the 3m rubbing compound is PN-05936. to be followed by Swirl Mark Remover PN-06064. if the paint has heavy scratches/oxidizing, start with extra-cut compound, PN-06060. i dont like the extra cut, but it has its place.
remember seperate pads for each >>
Regarding the claybar and his process he goes on to say:
<< imo, each has its place, I guess it depends on the outcome you want. if you want to clean your paint, the clay bar is good and sorta fun (for the first hour). and on that note, the buffing process slings compound everywhere, the driveway, your belly, every crevice on the car (read: mask off cowl) that requires a good wash afterwards with a detail brush. also, I cant buff a car in direct sunlight, compound dries too fast. the advantage is when my 3 step buffing process is done, you dont have to wax it to shine it, you might wax it to protect it. I have expensive paint on my car, and i never wax it. never. I waxed 3 panels once and those three were dirtier than the others the next day. the main advantage to a buffer, at my house, is for a few extra bux, i can bust out the air sander with 1500 grit and make clearcoat scratches disappear. not fill them and hide them, but make them go away.
ill explain my bias against the clay bar: customer comes in with new rolls royce. black paint, flat as glass (colorsanded and buffed, at the factory) and scratch free, but it got some type of overspray/fallout/whatever. i use a clay bar all over the trunk, and when youre done, and its dry, theres a light haze that wasn't there before. now I have to buff it to make it match the other panels. I feel that detailers use wax to hide things and it just washes off. and as a painter, its my opinion that online pics do nothing to reflect the true paint quality. >>
Like I indicated, I used the Turtle Wax Ice Clay Bar System on my 97 LSC and didn't notice any residue. I did follow it with another wash and some Meguiar's polish but I didn't get to finish the whole car. I do have some ZYMOL that I might put on with my orbital buffer.
Isn't the "best wax or polish" thing a bit subjective though?
Very interesting stuff. And yes, I expected it to be very subjective as well. Hence my surprise at seeing "Zaino Zaino Zaino!!"
My current wax standbys have been the "eagle-one" or the "Meguiars" products. Both of which have performed well, in my opinion, but I'm always interested in trying something new.
Since I just ordered the Zaino kit, I will attempt their clay bar, and see how it goes. My guess is that it will be a vast improvement over the current condition. Still, thank you for posting that bit from the other forum. It sounds like the guy knows what he is doing, and has some serious experience. perhaps, I'll buy a buffer and try that some other time.
I'm beginning to feel like I'm taking over a thread here. Definitely not my intent. Time to lie low.
My current wax standbys have been the "eagle-one" or the "Meguiars" products. Both of which have performed well, in my opinion, but I'm always interested in trying something new.
Since I just ordered the Zaino kit, I will attempt their clay bar, and see how it goes. My guess is that it will be a vast improvement over the current condition. Still, thank you for posting that bit from the other forum. It sounds like the guy knows what he is doing, and has some serious experience. perhaps, I'll buy a buffer and try that some other time.
I'm beginning to feel like I'm taking over a thread here. Definitely not my intent. Time to lie low.
tbirddmnd
Registered
Hi tixer! I'm not against claybar, I used it on my car and it came out great. I'm going to use a new claybar on my wife's 2001 Windstar and polish that too. I found you can't buy just the claybar alone in Auto Zone or any of the stores I've looked in, thought of using regular modelling clay then thought against it. I ordered a couple of "200 medium" on eBay and when it gets here I'll do her van.
I do notice that when I do wax a car that there's more dust that shows up afterward, as if the wax attracts it like a magnet. Oh well.
I do notice that when I do wax a car that there's more dust that shows up afterward, as if the wax attracts it like a magnet. Oh well.
Roadboss
On Work Release
I got turned on to this company as they are big with detailers (price competitive), I love how easy their products apply and remove. They also offer a wide range of other detailing chemicals too.
http://www.malcopro.com/index.php?p...acturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=101
http://www.malcopro.com/index.php?p...acturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=101
I use their Xtrax Release Agent & Conditioning Spray. It is fantastic stuff for plastic and trim!
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So I got z-8 and z-2 for christmas. Things is LeoC2 on this thread says z8 is a detail spray and to use z-cs as a sealant, while the bottle in my hand says z8 is a spray seal?
So is the z2 polish and z8 spray seal all I need?
As a matter of fact the first sentance on zaino web site for z8 is " z 8 is'nt a detail spray"...
But id like the opinion of someone who actually has used it.
Is it an either/or kinda thing?
So I got z-8 and z-2 for christmas. Things is LeoC2 on this thread says z8 is a detail spray and to use z-cs as a sealant, while the bottle in my hand says z8 is a spray seal?
So is the z2 polish and z8 spray seal all I need?
As a matter of fact the first sentance on zaino web site for z8 is " z 8 is'nt a detail spray"...
But id like the opinion of someone who actually has used it.
Is it an either/or kinda thing?
Last edited:
jamies98lsc
Registered
Blackfire Wet Diamond wooooooo weeeeeeeeeeee you want a shine and serious water beading, 6 months after one application will still bead like the day you apply it, stuff is the best i have ever used and i have tried almost everything i have owned so many black vehicles this stuff is slick, but works on any color. made in tampa