Brakes and Rotors

I've found these cars extremely intolerable of any wheel and tire issues, not to mention the brakes. I agree it may be beneficial to redo the rotor/hub mating, but I wouldn't hesitate to swapping the wheels back to their original position afterwards if that did not resolve the issue. If the brake work is not the culprit, then by elimination the wheel swap is. That being the case, I would have the wheels and tires broke down and remounted so the tires maintain the prior direction and the wheels are reversed to the correct rotation. Regardless, during the tire/wheel swap I would then have a high speed balance performed.
 
Fred, did you remember what I said about the proper torque procedure to mount wheels back on correctly?

I belvie the name of the shop in Edison is Freedman (sp?) it is good shop.
 
Yes I did Steve. When I put the wheels back on (albeit in positions different than those to which they had become accustomed) I was sure to tighten the lugs in a star pattern to 90lb/ft. I DID NOT align the valve stems to the yellow tipped studs cuz I didn't know about that. I have a feeling that these studs are not even visiblr on my car cuz I think I would have noticed them, but who knows?
 
honestly I don't think your "yellow studs" could have caused a vibration problem while braking. This sounds like a rotor issue, not a tire wheel balancing issue.
 
That's what I figure to be the case as well. I'm hoping that once I repull the rotors and really clean up the mounting surfaces that this issue will be resolved. However, I obviously have to pull the wheels in order to access the rotors, so I will attempt to do this yellow stud / valve stem thing while I'm at it.
BTW, does anyone know the correct torque ratings for the caliper bolts and also for that caliper / rotor retention bracket thingy? I just retorqued those four bolts (2 for the caliper, 2 larger ones for the bracket) to the torque ratings that they were at, i.e. the torque I had to apply to remove them. While I'm back in there I might as well torque those properly if I haven't done so already.
 
SolipcisticSmile said:
That's what I figure to be the case as well. I'm hoping that once I repull the rotors and really clean up the mounting surfaces that this issue will be resolved. However, I obviously have to pull the wheels in order to access the rotors, so I will attempt to do this yellow stud / valve stem thing while I'm at it.
BTW, does anyone know the correct torque ratings for the caliper bolts and also for that caliper / rotor retention bracket thingy? I just retorqued those four bolts (2 for the caliper, 2 larger ones for the bracket) to the torque ratings that they were at, i.e. the torque I had to apply to remove them. While I'm back in there I might as well torque those properly if I haven't done so already.
Click to expand...

I have the DVD and paper repair manuals here. If you want to stop by I can print what you need out.
 
I don't think I've ever torqued the caliper bracket mounting bolts - I just make sure they're clean and never-seized and tight.
 
I would do just that Steve, but I have an opportunity to go to my cousin Jim's house this morning (!garage!, n/a 427 small block :eek:02' Z28 SS [10.45@133mph] :eek:, air tools, good floor jack, etc.) so Im going to take advantage of that opportunity. He is never home so I'm going to use his good tools and equipment and I don't have time to get to you and back. I'll be home by like 2pm, so I'll let you all know how it went.
 
I did everything recommended. The vibration isn't Totally gone, but maybe 65%. I left the wheels in their new positions though, so maybe that is the other 35%. My chrome 10 spokes are VERY corroded though (mosty on the inside surface, not under the tire, but the side facing the car) so I will hopefully be getting new rims and tires shortly. I don't wanna do a hub swap, so I'm hoping to find some nice light 5 or 6 spokes in 17' or 18' with some summer tires (245's front 275's rear?) and hopefully that will alleviate the rest of the vibration. Anyone know how heavy my chrome 10's are? I want to try to buy the lightest wheels available in 17' or 18' that don't look half bad. I would think that the stock rims are pretty heavy, and I should pick up some performance by just replacing them with something wider with a stickier tire. Does anyone have any suggestions? I like those cobra rims that I think come in 17's, but I wonder if they are still available and / or if you need the hub swap to use em?
 
You can get Cobra and Saleen wheel replicas in our boltcircle and offset. The stock 10 spoke chrome wheel with tire will tip the scales close to 50 lbs. You can get 18 inch combos that will be close to the same.
 
I know our bolt circle, but what is the recommended offset? Remember, I wanna use the widest (245/40 front 275/40 rear?) that will fit and also try and keep the overall wheel diameter close to prevent any seroius speedo miscalculation. Any hints on where to get those Cobra's? The usual suspects (Tire Rack etc.) don't seem to have em'. Do you think a 17' combo will be inherently lighter than an 18' one, Or will they add up to be about the same cuz of the taller tire in the 17' to make up the same stock diameter?
 
You do realize that offset is a function of wheel width also.

275s are a tough fit without rubbing. I don't think you'll find one that fits that good and is readily sold.

+36mm on an 8.5" and 245s out back fit good. I used +36 on a 9" rim and 275s and they rubbed.
 
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