help fixing factory alarm please. A lil long

Greenemachine

Registered
ok so heres the story. Ipurchased my 96, has a clifford g5 alarm in it, you know the best alarm out there that cost a grand... blah blah blah blah blah... this pos goes off alll the time for no reason. a slight gust hits it it goes off.. I brought it down to the shop that installed it which is like 20 minuites out of my way and they de-sensitized it. it still goes off liike somethings wrong with it.. i don't have the time to keep bring my car down to this shop all the time and what could be worse me leaving the car for a whole day, I have a very busy schedule. I think its truly garbage and a total waste of $, in my other car the factory alarm was good enough. hell alarms don't really do anything to be honist. how many times a day do you hear an alarm go off, and alarms don't stop pro's from cutting the wires ina matter of seconds to steal your stuff. it only deters amatures,.... and in that case the factory alarm is good enough. heres what I wanna do, get the factory alarm to work, take out this pos glifford and sell it on e-bay and get $$$ for it. I'd at least get 500 for a thousand dollar alarm.. thats what i'm thinking. thats 500 more than I had.


so heres my problem, the factory alarm does not work. if you open the doors the green led blinks, and if you lock and close the doors( keyless entry, lock buttons, any method that usually arms the alarm) the led does not blink... like all the factory marks to do let you know you have an alarm. yet if you open the door it blinks but no lights flash and no horn. the shop says they did nothing to the factory alarm, and I swapped out the alarm module from my 93 and that did nothing. do aftermarket alarms bypass the stock and deactivate it? or should i look elsewhere? any help would be greatly appericated. Thanks
 
RE: help fixing factory alarm please. A lil long

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
if you open the doors the green led blinks, and if you lock and close the doors( keyless entry, lock buttons, any method that usually arms the alarm) the led does not blink... like all the factory marks to do let you know you have an alarm. yet if you open the door it blinks but no lights flash and no horn.[/div]
The green led does not blink once you lock the car and walk away. To tell if your alarm is working try this: Roll the windows down, then lock the car and get out. Now, reach through the drivers window and pull the latch to release the hood while the car is still locked. Now, go to the front and open the hood. If your alarm is working it will start honking in a few seconds. If the alarm doesn't go off, I'd start checking for fuses, wiring, etc.

John
[link:mark8.org/lodnca|NorCal Chapter Website]
http://mark8.org/users/johnaec/Mark_VIII_s.jpg
'97 Mark VIII LSC
'96 T-Bird 4.6L
 
RE: help fixing factory alarm please. A lil long

Did that b4, that was one of the first things I did( the door) the alarm doesn't go off. In my 93 when I armed the alarm the led would blink... the whole point of that led is to let people know you have a alarm... it wouldn't be doing its job if it didn't light. my moms 98 explorer had a red theft light that blinks... maybe yours being a 97 doesn't blink but the earlier years would blink after staying lit for a lil bit. the 96 doesn't even stay lit. fuses are good, wiring i'm not sure about. if you press the lock button twice the horn honks... I'm more concerned about the clifford alarm and if that has anything to do with the stock alarm. anyone who has an aftermarket alarm, does your factory alarm work still?
 
RE: help fixing factory alarm please. A lil long

The factory alarm system won't arm itself until 30 seconds after the last input. Like a door closing, the trunk closing or the hood closing. The second generation alarms will not go off if you leave the hood open during the arming proceedure as long as it was open before you locked the door by electric means,either the door switch, pressing 8 & 9 on the keypad or the sing the keyless entry module on your keychain.
Check fuses 16 & 17 for Gen 1 cars. 41 in the instrument panel fuse box, and 28 in the engine fuse box for Gen 2 cars.

I don't know what they did to your factory unit when they installed the aftermarket one. The only connection that should have been made is a connection to the power (no problem) and the interior lights (maybe a problem, but I doubt it). He may have messed with the wire(s) that disables the factory alarm. They go from the electronic door lock processor to the anti-theft alarm control. It depends on the year car as far as the color of the wire is concerned but if you can get at the anti-theft alarm control module, (connectors connected) check to see if there is any +12 Volts on the following pins: On C216 (13 pin connector on the anti-theft controller), Pin 6, Pin 7, or Pin 9. Pin 6 is colored Red/Orange, Pin 7 is colored Pink/Orange, and Pin 9 is Pink/Black. They should all be at ground potential. Using your keyless entry module (keychain) open the driver's side door (one push of the button) while monitoring pin 6 with a small 12 volt light or meter. It should go to +12 volts momentarily. Now do the same only monitor pin 7 and click the door open button twice, or push the door unlock button on the door, opening the passenger's side door. Again, there should be a momentary +12 volts (a meter would just deflect slowly, but still give you an indication)or continuous +12 volts if you pressed the unlock button on the door. Now monitor pin 9 of C204 and push the button to lock the doors, that should give you +12 volts as long as you push the button.

Also check these connections for +12 volts (small current) C217 (the other connector located on the anti theft module) (connector connected) pin 6. Should go to ground when you turn either front key door lock to the unlock position. Pin 5, same connector. Should go to ground if you open the hood or remove the trunk lock (not recommended to check, but if there is 12 volts on the line, disconnect both the hood and the trunk lid switch and make sure there is no ground potential on the line) And also Pin 3. that is the door ajar switch. It goes to ground when either door is opened. If you don't have a meter, use a very, very small bulb. The smallest 12 volt bulb you can get at radio shack, not the smallest you have. You should really use a digital or very small volt meter. You don't want to put any load on these circuits. They are at +12 volts through a resistor and if you use a bulb that's too big, you'll just send the voltage to ground and the test results will be of no use.

Here is what should happen if it is functioning properly:

1. If you open a door, the Alarm Indicator should FLASH.

2. Use any power door lock switch to lock the doors, the Alarm Indicator should be ON STEADY.

3. Then close the door(s).

4. WAIT approximately 30 seconds for the ALARM Indicator to go OUT. This indicates the system is armed.

I have a totalled 1994 in which everything works, except you can't drive it. If I open it up with the key, and then lock it using the power door locks, the alarm goes off because I have a small battery charger on the battery to keep it charged. The system knows the hood is up and after arming (30 sec.) the alarm goes off when I'm comfortably in the house. So you have to wait the 30 seconds and check the indicator lamp. After the lamp goes off, it's armed. If it does not go on steady when you lock the doors using any power method, then off after 30 seconds, something's wrong.
 
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