ignition??
- Thread starter rywegh
- Start date
sleeper
Former LOD President
RE: ignition??
We have attempted to do an ignition switch in a thunderbird once. Of course, it may have helped if we had instructions. But we were unable to succeed in removal of the old one through the use of a hammer, pry-bar, or a slide hammer with a stud welded on to the ignition switch. I just don't know how car thieves do it. All we needed to do was get the old one out and start the car (which has since been junked).
We have attempted to do an ignition switch in a thunderbird once. Of course, it may have helped if we had instructions. But we were unable to succeed in removal of the old one through the use of a hammer, pry-bar, or a slide hammer with a stud welded on to the ignition switch. I just don't know how car thieves do it. All we needed to do was get the old one out and start the car (which has since been junked).
Frankie X
Registered
RE: ignition??
You can take the ignition tumbler assembly out in less than a minute, providing you have a key that can turn it into the RUN (not START) position. The only thing holding it in the column is a single hardened steel lock pin. Ever look at the bottom side of your column and wondered what that extra little hole is next to the screw closest to the wheel? That's the pin access.
Turn the ignition to RUN, use a 1/8" pin punch in that hole, feel around a bit, then push in towards the center of the ignition tumbler. Using the key as a handle, draw the tumbler staight out without turning it out of RUN. When you install the new one, be sure it's in what will be the RUN position, push it gently in, and the first time you turn it back to lock, the pin will pop out and secure it.
It may be easier to take the lower shroud off to see the pin and hole in the ignition housing the first time you do it. If you cannot turn the tumbler with the key, you're in big trouble. Start thinking carbide drill bits and a lot of metal filings everywhere. If your tumbler is jamming intermittently, I'd change it now while you still have a chance!
You can take the ignition tumbler assembly out in less than a minute, providing you have a key that can turn it into the RUN (not START) position. The only thing holding it in the column is a single hardened steel lock pin. Ever look at the bottom side of your column and wondered what that extra little hole is next to the screw closest to the wheel? That's the pin access.
Turn the ignition to RUN, use a 1/8" pin punch in that hole, feel around a bit, then push in towards the center of the ignition tumbler. Using the key as a handle, draw the tumbler staight out without turning it out of RUN. When you install the new one, be sure it's in what will be the RUN position, push it gently in, and the first time you turn it back to lock, the pin will pop out and secure it.
It may be easier to take the lower shroud off to see the pin and hole in the ignition housing the first time you do it. If you cannot turn the tumbler with the key, you're in big trouble. Start thinking carbide drill bits and a lot of metal filings everywhere. If your tumbler is jamming intermittently, I'd change it now while you still have a chance!
sleeper
Former LOD President
RE: ignition??
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
If you cannot turn the tumbler with the key, you're in big trouble. Start thinking carbide drill bits and a lot of metal filings everywhere. If your tumbler is jamming intermittently, I'd change it now while you still have a chance!
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Yea, we didn't have a key. Like i said, i don't know how car thieves do it.
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
If you cannot turn the tumbler with the key, you're in big trouble. Start thinking carbide drill bits and a lot of metal filings everywhere. If your tumbler is jamming intermittently, I'd change it now while you still have a chance!
[/div]
Yea, we didn't have a key. Like i said, i don't know how car thieves do it.
Frankie X
Registered
RE: ignition??
One other thing, Ryan: when you get your new tumbler from a LINCOLN DEALERSHIP, if you look at the two new keys that come with it, they will only be cut on the first half. That's because most Lincolns use a 10-cut key-- the 5 cuts closest to the end work the ignition and the 5 cuts closest to the handle work the doors. The guys in the parts department should be able to shadow cut the back half of the new keys to work your doors.
One other thing, Ryan: when you get your new tumbler from a LINCOLN DEALERSHIP, if you look at the two new keys that come with it, they will only be cut on the first half. That's because most Lincolns use a 10-cut key-- the 5 cuts closest to the end work the ignition and the 5 cuts closest to the handle work the doors. The guys in the parts department should be able to shadow cut the back half of the new keys to work your doors.
RE: ignition??
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
One other thing, Ryan: when you get your new tumbler from a LINCOLN DEALERSHIP, if you look at the two new keys that come with it, they will only be cut on the first half. That's because most Lincolns use a 10-cut key-- the 5 cuts closest to the end work the ignition and the 5 cuts closest to the handle work the doors. The guys in the parts department should be able to shadow cut the back half of the new keys to work your doors.
[/div]
Thanks!
I never knew that!? All this time, I thought you had to run around with two sets of keys when you replace the ignition, one old key for the doors and one new key for the ignition.
Is it also true, you can cut one side of a key blank for one car and the other side for another car? Now you have one key for two cars?
I want that trick done for my '93 and '91 Lincolns. I asked one place once and they said they couldn't do it. It would need to be done on an older key cutting machine, since theirs cut both sides at the same time.
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
One other thing, Ryan: when you get your new tumbler from a LINCOLN DEALERSHIP, if you look at the two new keys that come with it, they will only be cut on the first half. That's because most Lincolns use a 10-cut key-- the 5 cuts closest to the end work the ignition and the 5 cuts closest to the handle work the doors. The guys in the parts department should be able to shadow cut the back half of the new keys to work your doors.
[/div]
Thanks!
I never knew that!? All this time, I thought you had to run around with two sets of keys when you replace the ignition, one old key for the doors and one new key for the ignition.
Is it also true, you can cut one side of a key blank for one car and the other side for another car? Now you have one key for two cars?
I want that trick done for my '93 and '91 Lincolns. I asked one place once and they said they couldn't do it. It would need to be done on an older key cutting machine, since theirs cut both sides at the same time.
Frankie X
Registered
RE: ignition??
You bet!! We've got a few customers who have asked us to do that. We usually grind some kind of indentation into the key body so they can quickly tell which side is for what vehicle. Obviously this can't be done to PATS keys with the built in antitheft chips.
Our parts guys use a hardware store style grinding key cutter that shadow cuts from the old key to the new key one side at a time for this.
Also, is everybody aware you can program more than one car to respond to the same remote? The encryptions have changed over the years, so one remote won't open both a Gen1 and a Gen2, for example, but within model years it can be done. One of our service writers has his '96 Explorer and '97 Town Car opening with one remote-- less to carry around.
You bet!! We've got a few customers who have asked us to do that. We usually grind some kind of indentation into the key body so they can quickly tell which side is for what vehicle. Obviously this can't be done to PATS keys with the built in antitheft chips.
Our parts guys use a hardware store style grinding key cutter that shadow cuts from the old key to the new key one side at a time for this.
Also, is everybody aware you can program more than one car to respond to the same remote? The encryptions have changed over the years, so one remote won't open both a Gen1 and a Gen2, for example, but within model years it can be done. One of our service writers has his '96 Explorer and '97 Town Car opening with one remote-- less to carry around.
RE: ignition??
Thanks Frankie. I did not know this I will visit my Lincoln Dealer when I get off work or shortly there after.
Yes right now it is intermittent. Happened again this afternoon while my mom was driving the car. She had to leave my car at Sam's till I got up to go get started and head to work.
Thanks everyone for your answers. I will try to take pictures and write this up.
Thanks Frankie. I did not know this I will visit my Lincoln Dealer when I get off work or shortly there after.
Yes right now it is intermittent. Happened again this afternoon while my mom was driving the car. She had to leave my car at Sam's till I got up to go get started and head to work.
Thanks everyone for your answers. I will try to take pictures and write this up.
RE: ignition??
If you can get the key to the run position, it's real easy. Just remove the bottom plastic cover of the steering column and after removing the battery ground cable, turn the key to run and under the cylinder mount you will find a brass pin. Push up on it and just remove the lock and replace it with a new one from Auto Zone, etc. You will have to carry around another key just to start the car, but it's fine if you are cash strapped. Getting the door locks out are more difficult.
If you can get the key to the run position, it's real easy. Just remove the bottom plastic cover of the steering column and after removing the battery ground cable, turn the key to run and under the cylinder mount you will find a brass pin. Push up on it and just remove the lock and replace it with a new one from Auto Zone, etc. You will have to carry around another key just to start the car, but it's fine if you are cash strapped. Getting the door locks out are more difficult.