Lower Ball Joints and Brakes

Roadboss said:
The kits are defined as outside, and inner. Inside each kit are the components for drivers side and passenger side.

2 kits required total.
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Really?

Must have changed that from all of the mistaken orders. I ordered some a few years back and got a box for just one side. Had to order again for the other side.
 
That is what he is saying. Two kits. You ordered a box for one side and had to order another......now you have two. :)
 
Yes, the Moog ones are blue. The kit comes with 4 blue rubbers, 4 washers, and 2 nuts. This will do one of each side at the control arm. I'm not going to take the rest of it apart at the K frame.
 
Ok, well it still applies. You will NEED to trim the sleeve. Compare your old metal sleeve to the one on the rod when you take it off, you'll need to take 1/4" off with a hacksaw or die grinder.
 
Oh ok, I didn't realize what you were saying. I gotcha now.

Rock auto sent me the wrong sway bar links! The box has the correct number on it but the boxes each have a HUGE tie rod end in them! LOL! I think they go to an F250 or something. Definately not sway bar links.
 
They sent me 2 more of the same boxes with the correct part number but one of the boxes had the same huge tie rod in it! LOL! So much for doing the job in the AM on Sat!
 
Joeb6812 said:
They sent me 2 more of the same boxes with the correct part number but one of the boxes had the same huge tie rod in it! LOL! So much for doing the job in the AM on Sat!
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You're taking it well...I'd be pissed by now.

What happy pills are you taking and where can I get some?
 
Oh don't be mistaken, I'm pissed but theres nothing I can do about it living on this rock! The only day I could do the job was on Sunday in the AM after work so I went ahead and replaced all the stuff I had. Now I just have to take it apart again on the right side when the link comes in.

On a lighter note, replacing the lower control arms and strut rod bushings made a huge difference! I just need to get it lined up now. The steering wheel is crooked. The ceramic pads and rotors are awesome! It feels like I'm driving a cruiser now! LOL! The car stops on a dime and there is no pulsation, yet. I am going off island on Thursday and will be driving about 250 miles on the highway for the first time in a while. We'll see how it goes... :cool:
 
Oh I forgot to ask, the sleeve that came off of the car was like half the size of the new one. I only cut off about 1/4 of an inch like someone had said. And I tightened the nut to 110 foot lbs of tourqe. Is that correct? I hope so...
 
Joeb6812 said:
Oh I forgot to ask, the sleeve that came off of the car was like half the size of the new one. I only cut off about 1/4 of an inch like someone had said. And I tightened the nut to 110 foot lbs of tourqe. Is that correct? I hope so...
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I believe that the new sleeves need to be a bit longer due to thicker bushings, but I could be wrong on that.
 
Took the car on the highway and it was pretty smooth. The brakes still vibrate when I stop quickly at highway speeds but it's better than it was. The car also seems to shake around 70-80 mph. Over 80 I can barely feel it. It's not perfect but it's better than before.
 
J said:
Ok, well it still applies. You will NEED to trim the sleeve. Compare your old metal sleeve to the one on the rod when you take it off, you'll need to take 1/4" off with a hacksaw or die grinder.
Click to expand...

Do you know how long should the sleeve is supposed to be?

I'm wondering because I bought a '93 fixer-upper a few months ago. After replacing all the shocks, MLPS, upper control arms, inner & outer tie rods, rear brakes, etc., I was pretty tired of working on it, so I had the shop replace the control arm SRBs when I took it in for an alignment.

I was sure the blown bushings were responsible for a nasty front-end clunk on rough roads (since pretty much everything else is new), but it's still there. Now I'm wondering if the new bushings are loose because the mechanic didn't trim the sleeves, and of course I don't have the old ones around for comparison. It figures that they're the ONE thing I didn't replace myself! :rolleyes:
 
93_95 said:
Do you know how long should the sleeve is supposed to be?
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Depends what kit they are using. The only way to really know is take it all apart.

You can test it by backing up slowly (idling) and tap the brake fast (tap and off). You should hear a clunk. If you don't hear a clunk, the sleeve may not be an issue. If you do hear a clunk, then I'd take it back to the shop and let them know whats up. I took some pictures, maybe it will help.

http://www.lincolnsclub.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=20798&highlight=control
 
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