Mark 8 in the UK - diagnostics of SCIL

[andyfanshawe]

Hi all. Don't know whether I introduced myself properly in my last 2 postings, so lets start again.........
I bought this mark 8 a few months ago in the UK and have been slowly restoring it.
80K miles and a few minor niggles but nothing serious. Its had a replacement warranty engine at some point in its life.

I've managed to source a Ford factory scan tool - the NGK Star tester 2 with the correct modules to read every module on the car and even code keys in!!

Its proven a fantastic ride so far with no exra problems. Very comfortable indeed. Love it.

Anyway, back to one of the cars problems. The parking brake won't release automatically. I have to release it by the emergency lever at the side of the seat.

So, plug in the NGK star 2 tester and have a look.

What a surprise. Picking up C1446 - parking brake circuit fault-but I knew that already.

The SCIL module needs to know when the parking brake is on - which it confirmed it did, via the PRK BK signal at the module on the start tester.

It also needs to know when the foot brake is on and off, using the Brake On Off (BOO) switch at the top of the pedal. So into the PIDs on the tester and this is what it showed no matter what the pedal was doing

So I need to head off over to the SCIL module itself at the other side of the dash.
Here it is

And unbolted and swung down

What is that I see-the light green from the BOO switch has been cut! Wheres the other side?

here

So the question is - why was it cut? Just as i was about to find out my battery died!! serves me right for having the stereo on for hours while i worked on the car! So that is charging as we speak.

In the meantime, logically thinking, it must have been cut for a reason. Probably causing fault codes.
Now when american cars come into the UK, they have whats called an SVA (single vehicle approval) test, where things are changed. Like the lights. They must flash yellow at the back, so they are rewired with yellow bulbs in the back up light sockets for the turn signals. On my mark, a wire has been spliced into the output side of the BOO switch on the pedal and straight to the stop light bulbs. This provides a direct hot feed to the stop lamps. The original wire to the stop light has been cut and spliced into the yellow bulb for the turns.............and ha! that now explains why it was cut!

If the wire is reconnected the SCIL will know the brake pedal is being pressed and will try to light the stop light bulbs. But they are wired to the turn lamps, so...problems.

I want to get the parking brake operation back, so I need to fool the SCIL into thinking it is working normally at the rear (american style, but still stop lights red and turns yellow. Hmmm.........

Andy.

 

[driller]

Welcome!

Very intriquing story you have here. I'm not sure what the solution would be, but good luck with your new ride!

 

[jamies98lsc]

it was cut because someone converted the car over to coil srings and ditched the air ride. they cut the wrong wire. the other module behind that one, the black one thats also in the picture with the white sticker and orange stripe has a green wire that is supposed to be cut to delete the check air ride message one gets after converting to coil springs, obviously who ever did the conversion went in and cut the wrong green wire on the wrong module, just solder it back together and shrink tube it you should be fine.

 

[andyfanshawe]

it was cut because someone converted the car over to coil srings and ditched the air ride. they cut the wrong wire. the other module behind that one, the black one thats also in the picture with the white sticker and orange stripe has a green wire that is supposed to be cut to delete the check air ride message one gets after converting to coil springs, obviously who ever did the conversion went in and cut the wrong green wire on the wrong module, just solder it back together and shrink tube it you should be fine.

Hi Jamie.
Thanks for your message.
The car is still on air and works perfectly. The correct wire has been cut to solve the lighting problem.
I'm going to join it back today and see what happens.
I'm now wondering if that other wire has been cut as well then?!

Andy.

 

[jamies98lsc]

if its still on air and you have wires cut i dont know what to tell you !!! i'd be nervous. i dont know why people go in and cut stuff up thats never how to solve a problem.

 

[andyfanshawe]

if its still on air and you have wires cut i dont know what to tell you !!! i'd be nervous. i dont know why people go in and cut stuff up thats never how to solve a problem.

Hi Jamie.
I suppose it was cut for a very good reason. The rear lights wouldn't have worked properly without cutting it. Loss of parking brake auto release (and possible cruise?) is a consequence. But the people who do the SVA'a aren't bothered about that. The wiring at the front for the cars lights is horrendous. But at least it works (at the moment).


Had an interesting posting from another forum with a possible solution (courtesy of 97Mark JA).

"I helped a friend of mine in the UK do this to his mustang.
Put everything back to stock leaving the yellow bulbs in place.
Cut the break/turn wires going to the left and right break light and run a wire to the bulb side from the center break light so the light up when the breaks are on.
Run a wire from the front left and right turn signal light to the rear and hook them up accordingly to your yellow bulbs.
If you get a bulb warning light for the rear you can wire in two extra bulbs in the trunk with an extra socket to eliminate that any spare bits socket will do, just make sure they can't touch anything or mount them in a panel.
Should solve your problems."

I returned the car to US specs this morning and everything worked as it should - even the auto parking brake release!
I then wired the brake lights as you said and got the error message (sort that out later the way you said -although I will mimick the bulbs with appropriate resistors).
Connected the rear LH indicator up from the front and it wont even flash -well it gives a quick flash and then nothing for 30 seconds and then repeats. So the loading isn't right. Back to the drawing board on that one.

Each corner turn signal has a separate output from the SCIL, and an extra 21W load on a particular one worries me. 21W is about 2 amps extra. The output stage of the SCIL will be loadad up beyond or close to its tolerance I would have thought.
At least I know the SCIL is fully functional. I'll get my thinking cap on

let me know what you all think.
Andy.

 

[driller]

Think diodes.

 

[J]

Does your neon work? Sounds like it stopped worming so they cut that wire to prevent the car from not being able to shift.

This could also affect the cruise because you wouldn't be able to turn it off via the brake switch.

 

[andyfanshawe]

Does your neon work? Sounds like it stopped worming so they cut that wire to prevent the car from not being able to shift.

This could also affect the cruise because you wouldn't be able to turn it off via the brake switch.

Thanks for the question.
The neon works well - in fact I wouldn't have bought the car if it wasn't!! I've even got a spare one.

The wire was cut to prevent wiring problems for the euro conversion.

Andy.