Hi....I'm new here and Ive just started trying to get into the Mark VIII game and have been looking for a 1st gen. I cannot for the life of me get a good idea on how much I should expect to pay for one. Most of them in my area (year: 93-95s) have about 100K-135K miles with standard body and interior wear and tear etc. The used car dealers want like 3500-5500 and private sellers are in the 3500-4000 price range. Now, I look on eBay and most that I have seen (93-95s in the 130K mile range) sell for 1500-2700. I have emailed some of the the local area sellers saying my offer range is about $2500 and they say they wont consider selling in that price range. I recently viewed a 93 with 100K on it that had been sitting for a while with a blown tranny and it also wont start and the ask price is $2K. I want to offer like $500-$700 for the car since it has to be towed and doesnt run. I know how to rebuild the tranny myself and do the engine work so that doesnt intimidate me.....but I think I will be laughed at. Should I just hold out and keep looking for a "good" deal or am I going to have to pay above eBay price for the local cars? Any opinions or help is appreciated.
Mark VIII value
- Thread starter esahlin
- Start date
RE: Mark VIII value
A 95 Mark VIII, with 100K miles would cost you about $3,450 in excellent condition and only $2,600 in fair condition. That car you found is older and got a bad tranny. If he gets anything above 500 bucks, he’ll be lucky. That bad tranny could be hiding all kinds of other sins.
I'd go no larger than 600 bucks. Throw down your bid. If he laughs at you, walk away. He's dreaming.
A dealer wants to get back the money he put into it to sell it. So his price is gonna be higher.
Go to www.kbb.com (Kelly Blue Book) and check out their used car pricing.
Try to buy from locals private individuals in your area.
Avoid eBay, unless you are going for a restored, one of a kind, must have or die, classic/ e x o t i c car.
A 95 Mark VIII, with 100K miles would cost you about $3,450 in excellent condition and only $2,600 in fair condition. That car you found is older and got a bad tranny. If he gets anything above 500 bucks, he’ll be lucky. That bad tranny could be hiding all kinds of other sins.
I'd go no larger than 600 bucks. Throw down your bid. If he laughs at you, walk away. He's dreaming.
A dealer wants to get back the money he put into it to sell it. So his price is gonna be higher.
Go to www.kbb.com (Kelly Blue Book) and check out their used car pricing.
Try to buy from locals private individuals in your area.
Avoid eBay, unless you are going for a restored, one of a kind, must have or die, classic/ e x o t i c car.
RE: Mark VIII value
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
THanks for the response. I havent tried buying used vehicles in a long time so should I expect to have to pay pretty close to the Kelley Blue book value from a private party or? Whats a good strategy to use?
[/div]
Compare the KBB value with edmunds.com. They use a similar formula, but they go into more specifics. refer to their section on "TMV".
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
THanks for the response. I havent tried buying used vehicles in a long time so should I expect to have to pay pretty close to the Kelley Blue book value from a private party or? Whats a good strategy to use?
[/div]
Compare the KBB value with edmunds.com. They use a similar formula, but they go into more specifics. refer to their section on "TMV".
RE: Mark VIII value
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]Whats a good strategy to use?[/div]Find one with a suspension problem but otherwise in nice shape. Chances are it will be cheap and can be fixed easily enough.
[/div]
I would agree here. If they are willing to admit that there is a suspension problem, then you can assume they are at least somewhat honest.
The "suspension problem" is usually a leaking strut-bag, which can be replaced (both recommended) for around $500...from the right shop (read: American Air Suspension). If you can turn a wrench, the job is DIY. I'm not sure what a mechanic would charge in labor.
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]Whats a good strategy to use?[/div]Find one with a suspension problem but otherwise in nice shape. Chances are it will be cheap and can be fixed easily enough.
[/div]
I would agree here. If they are willing to admit that there is a suspension problem, then you can assume they are at least somewhat honest.
The "suspension problem" is usually a leaking strut-bag, which can be replaced (both recommended) for around $500...from the right shop (read: American Air Suspension). If you can turn a wrench, the job is DIY. I'm not sure what a mechanic would charge in labor.
RE: Mark VIII value
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Usually they have taken it to the dealer and it is 'diagnosed' to cost $2000 to repair the air suspension. Scared to death, they buy another car and post the Lincoln up for sale at a loss.
[/div]
Yes, good point there.
Confirm the problem beforehand of course.
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Usually they have taken it to the dealer and it is 'diagnosed' to cost $2000 to repair the air suspension. Scared to death, they buy another car and post the Lincoln up for sale at a loss.
[/div]
Yes, good point there.
Confirm the problem beforehand of course.
RE: Mark VIII value
All great info....Thanks. I guess I will take my time and look for one that seems like a good deal based on the info you guys have given me.....and the other info on this site.
Since I am new here I'll share a story: I was lucky in that I was a Ford powertrain engineer in the 90s and I was able to take a few of the first 93 Mark VIIIs on durability drives back in 92. These were some of the first Mark VIIIs that came off the production line at the Wixom MI plant.....before they were being delivered to dealers. Most of the company (management and engineering) was very excited and very impressed with these cars back then (I still am). Its good to see that these cars have a following and that there are enthusiasts out there like everyone on the board here collecting, saving, rebuilding and restoring them. These Mark VIIIs are really nice and it will be fun to finally get a chance to pick one up. I hope to get one soon.
All great info....Thanks. I guess I will take my time and look for one that seems like a good deal based on the info you guys have given me.....and the other info on this site.
Since I am new here I'll share a story: I was lucky in that I was a Ford powertrain engineer in the 90s and I was able to take a few of the first 93 Mark VIIIs on durability drives back in 92. These were some of the first Mark VIIIs that came off the production line at the Wixom MI plant.....before they were being delivered to dealers. Most of the company (management and engineering) was very excited and very impressed with these cars back then (I still am). Its good to see that these cars have a following and that there are enthusiasts out there like everyone on the board here collecting, saving, rebuilding and restoring them. These Mark VIIIs are really nice and it will be fun to finally get a chance to pick one up. I hope to get one soon.
RE: Mark VIII value
Typically, if the seller has already bought a car from a dealer and he did not trade in his old one, then the dealer offered him rock bottom wholesale for his car and the seller refused. The seller figures he should be able to get more for it if he sells it himself. He can. So arm yourself with the dealer's asking price and the wholesale price. Somewhere in between those two prices will be a spot that the seller will sell you his car.
Yeah these guys are right: having been hit with a $2000 suspension (read air bag) repair bill the seller will want to get rid of this money hole, ASAP. Having the dealer offer him wholesale just gives him more motivation to sell it to you. Giving him more than wholesale satisfies both of you guys. If you can DIY, you can get a great car for rock bottom cost -- and a little sweat.
Typically, if the seller has already bought a car from a dealer and he did not trade in his old one, then the dealer offered him rock bottom wholesale for his car and the seller refused. The seller figures he should be able to get more for it if he sells it himself. He can. So arm yourself with the dealer's asking price and the wholesale price. Somewhere in between those two prices will be a spot that the seller will sell you his car.
Yeah these guys are right: having been hit with a $2000 suspension (read air bag) repair bill the seller will want to get rid of this money hole, ASAP. Having the dealer offer him wholesale just gives him more motivation to sell it to you. Giving him more than wholesale satisfies both of you guys. If you can DIY, you can get a great car for rock bottom cost -- and a little sweat.
Neontail97
Registered
RE: Mark VIII value
Here are some general tips I've assembled for folks looking to buy their first Mark.
Being able to do all your own troubleshooting and repairs really helps make these cars desireable to own. Just keep in mind even though you can do your own repairs, if you buy a car with too many problems you will exceed the value of the car just in parts at which time you'd have been better off to pay more up front and save yourself the time/work.
Keys to becoming (and staying) a happy Mark VIII owner:
1. Learn all you can about the Mark on this site. Spend hours doing home work. Know what to look for, know what questions to ask, what you want and don't want.
2.Be patient in your search and get a car with the color, options and condition you prefer.
3.Get a car with known maintenance history. Buying from a private seller will usually get you more car for the $$$.
4.Be cautious about buying a car that is inexpensive because it has a "few" problems thinking you can put a little money into it. Unless you have the knowledge, tools, and garage to do 100% of repairs yourself, this can be very risky with the Mark VIII.
5.By the best well maintained car you can afford. A little more money spent up front on a pampered car should reward you with less maint costs down the road providing you have completed step #1.
6.Again, be patient in your search. A hasty purchase comes with high risk unless you are a Mark VIII expert. When you find a car you want, make a post here so folks can offer guidance based on your description.
7.Keep some money set aside for repairs. $500-$1000 depending what you can do yourself.
Not that it needs repeating but patience is your best friend. If you can hold out long enough you will be rewarded with a great deal. If you can't wait, buy whats available. As long as it makes "you" happy then its worth it.
Here are some general tips I've assembled for folks looking to buy their first Mark.
Being able to do all your own troubleshooting and repairs really helps make these cars desireable to own. Just keep in mind even though you can do your own repairs, if you buy a car with too many problems you will exceed the value of the car just in parts at which time you'd have been better off to pay more up front and save yourself the time/work.
Keys to becoming (and staying) a happy Mark VIII owner:
1. Learn all you can about the Mark on this site. Spend hours doing home work. Know what to look for, know what questions to ask, what you want and don't want.
2.Be patient in your search and get a car with the color, options and condition you prefer.
3.Get a car with known maintenance history. Buying from a private seller will usually get you more car for the $$$.
4.Be cautious about buying a car that is inexpensive because it has a "few" problems thinking you can put a little money into it. Unless you have the knowledge, tools, and garage to do 100% of repairs yourself, this can be very risky with the Mark VIII.
5.By the best well maintained car you can afford. A little more money spent up front on a pampered car should reward you with less maint costs down the road providing you have completed step #1.
6.Again, be patient in your search. A hasty purchase comes with high risk unless you are a Mark VIII expert. When you find a car you want, make a post here so folks can offer guidance based on your description.
7.Keep some money set aside for repairs. $500-$1000 depending what you can do yourself.
Not that it needs repeating but patience is your best friend. If you can hold out long enough you will be rewarded with a great deal. If you can't wait, buy whats available. As long as it makes "you" happy then its worth it.
RE: Mark VIII value
i kinda rushed into mine the dealer was asking 3500 for a 95 makr lsc with blow air ride and 186k on it after some haglin i took it home for 2600 (this was 3 years ago) i knida rushed into to it it has some issues but in the end i love the car
could have have found a better deal probaly but i have yet to find another car like mine lsc with black oaint and light charcol interior and wood grain
i kinda rushed into mine the dealer was asking 3500 for a 95 makr lsc with blow air ride and 186k on it after some haglin i took it home for 2600 (this was 3 years ago) i knida rushed into to it it has some issues but in the end i love the car
could have have found a better deal probaly but i have yet to find another car like mine lsc with black oaint and light charcol interior and wood grain
RE: Mark VIII value
I found two 93 Mark VIIIs locally from private sellers both are listed at about $2500 asking. Problems is that both cars have about 170,000 miles on them. One guy replaced the front air suspension already. Should you just walk away from a Mark 8 with that many miles, I mean the tranny and the engines have got to be real tired. Even if I could negotiate them down to 2000 or a little less is it even worth it......how long will the average 4.6 4V last without needing a rebuild? Any opinions?
FlynFrog you bought a Mark with 186,000....have you run into needing an engine rebuild in the near future?
I found two 93 Mark VIIIs locally from private sellers both are listed at about $2500 asking. Problems is that both cars have about 170,000 miles on them. One guy replaced the front air suspension already. Should you just walk away from a Mark 8 with that many miles, I mean the tranny and the engines have got to be real tired. Even if I could negotiate them down to 2000 or a little less is it even worth it......how long will the average 4.6 4V last without needing a rebuild? Any opinions?
FlynFrog you bought a Mark with 186,000....have you run into needing an engine rebuild in the near future?
RE: Mark VIII value
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
I found two 93 Mark VIIIs locally from private sellers both are listed at about $2500 asking. Problems is that both cars have about 170,000 miles on them. One guy replaced the front air suspension already. Should you just walk away from a Mark 8 with that many miles, I mean the tranny and the engines have got to be real tired. Even if I could negotiate them down to 2000 or a little less is it even worth it......how long will the average 4.6 4V last without needing a rebuild? Any opinions?FlynFrog you bought a Mark with 186,000....have you run into needing an engine rebuild in the near future?
[/div]
Think of it this way, how many people do you know that have needed to rebuild their engine...whatever the mileage? Very few; today's engines are just plain built to last. I'd be more worried about the tranny, suspension parts and brakes.
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
I found two 93 Mark VIIIs locally from private sellers both are listed at about $2500 asking. Problems is that both cars have about 170,000 miles on them. One guy replaced the front air suspension already. Should you just walk away from a Mark 8 with that many miles, I mean the tranny and the engines have got to be real tired. Even if I could negotiate them down to 2000 or a little less is it even worth it......how long will the average 4.6 4V last without needing a rebuild? Any opinions?FlynFrog you bought a Mark with 186,000....have you run into needing an engine rebuild in the near future?
[/div]
Think of it this way, how many people do you know that have needed to rebuild their engine...whatever the mileage? Very few; today's engines are just plain built to last. I'd be more worried about the tranny, suspension parts and brakes.
RE: Mark VIII value
I bought my 98 with ~33,000 87 year old lady miles on it. Body wasnt perfect (had 2 small dents, some scratches) but mechiancally it was perfect (except the cd player, which never work so it seems)
I paid Exactly kelly blue book private party of 6300. I would offer them the private party value if they are a private party and say that thats the value and its only going to go down so thats what youre offering. If they won't take it, don't buy it. And yea like its been said, kbb.com.
EDIT:
HOW COULD I FORGET!
Check craigslist.org under your state or neighboring states every day.
I checked it every day for about 2 months searching for the perfect car. I love it.
I bought my 98 with ~33,000 87 year old lady miles on it. Body wasnt perfect (had 2 small dents, some scratches) but mechiancally it was perfect (except the cd player, which never work so it seems)
I paid Exactly kelly blue book private party of 6300. I would offer them the private party value if they are a private party and say that thats the value and its only going to go down so thats what youre offering. If they won't take it, don't buy it. And yea like its been said, kbb.com.
EDIT:
HOW COULD I FORGET!
Check craigslist.org under your state or neighboring states every day.
I checked it every day for about 2 months searching for the perfect car. I love it.
hawthorne93mn
Registered
RE: Mark VIII value
my thoughts...
Test drive a 93, a 96, and a 97 or 98 before you buy. I bought a 93 with low miles a great history at a fair price but wish I had held out for a 96 LSC in some ways. But it is seriously worth your while to drive both generations and LSC vs non LSC BEFORE buying even if you are sure that you want a gen one, the gen two's have the more seductive interiors and some uber cool convenience stuff.
Read up on the headlight problem on the Gen I cars because you will have to deal with it unless you get a late 95 or 96 lsc in which case you will have to deal with the bulbs not being available at a decent price or possibly at all issue that affects the HID lights. If you want HIDs buy a car that already has them or count on another grand or so to upgrade.
Get the right color and options if it matters to you at all. Adding options later is a nightmare. Might not hurt to check the interior color codes either. Mine is a one year only interior color so correct replacement trim is pain to find and I have superglued some things I would prefer to replace.
Count on replacing the air suspension all four wheels and the compressor and shocks. Looks like it can be done DYI for 600-800 in parts if you use the right vendors. you can convert to conventional suspension for a few hundred bucks less but it is one of the coolest features of the Mark so I recommend agaisnt it. You might get lucky and find someone who did it recently but otherwise count on it being needed eventually no matter what. Thirteen year old rubber air springs with low miles leak slowly just like the ones with high miles on them...
Totally just my opinion: Your car needs transmission cooler installed if it doesn't already have one. You will never tow anything with the car so get that idea out of your head forever if it is there. And you will run only Premium gasoline and use synthetic oil and tranny fluid ( switch to mercron5). It adds up but is worth it in the long run.
The rear window trim/weatherstrip aging badly and the wierd looking fake chrome on the side moldings on the non LSC gen 1 cars can't be readily fixed so you should plan to live with it.
If you have self dimming mirrors they will not age well.
Gen 2 cars have an issue with the blend door for the heating that you must learn about before buying one.
If you are an evil smoker like me, know that the newer it is, the fewer and smaller the ashtrays will be. I am convinced that who ever designed all of the Mark VIII's ashtrays was a sadist as well as a non-smoker...
Gen1 only has one cup holder and a normal bottle of soda won't fit in it. Gen 2 has a neat double holder cup holder that is very cool but can be broken if you are rough with it.
And lastly prices. My personal thoughts are that all gen 1 cars in working order with reasonable miles go for about the same price range (almost regardless of miles and condition) and that all Gen 2 cars go for a different range which is semi-inexplicably a few thousand higher. Almost everyone who has a Mark thinks it is the bees knees and will commonly ask more than the market really justifies. I don't blame them one tiny bit. And since they are super cool and hard to find at all, much less in say... black on black 96 LSC... sometimes people will ask and get double the blue book if they find the right buyer.
As a buyer, learn EVERY flaw the cars typically have and ask the seller about each and every one. You will shake their confidence in their price and they will start to wonder if you are psychic. They will also start to feel guilty like a bad pet owner and start to feel like they should sell the car to you because you actually know what you are doing... They all have some engine noise at cold start and I still remember the blanched look on his face when I asked about it (I only aske dif it was there, it wa shis imagination that started thinking it might be something serious...) All gen ones have crappy headlights and they cost a fortune to replace, very few sellers realize the second part. Go for low miles and no rust at all. Go having memorized how much the edmund/kelly #'s change for the difference between 150k and 25k, because gen ones with low miles per the books are not worth that much more than gen ones with high miles and most people totally think that low miles should nearly double the price. Frankly it should, but in the real world especially for early gen 1, it doesn't.
Also keep an eye out for difficult to undo "improvements" like the aftermarket woodgrain I live with because I seriously doubt I could ever get the glue off the simple and lovely rubberized trim beneath it.
Timothy
93 Mark VIII "Hawthorne"
my thoughts...
Test drive a 93, a 96, and a 97 or 98 before you buy. I bought a 93 with low miles a great history at a fair price but wish I had held out for a 96 LSC in some ways. But it is seriously worth your while to drive both generations and LSC vs non LSC BEFORE buying even if you are sure that you want a gen one, the gen two's have the more seductive interiors and some uber cool convenience stuff.
Read up on the headlight problem on the Gen I cars because you will have to deal with it unless you get a late 95 or 96 lsc in which case you will have to deal with the bulbs not being available at a decent price or possibly at all issue that affects the HID lights. If you want HIDs buy a car that already has them or count on another grand or so to upgrade.
Get the right color and options if it matters to you at all. Adding options later is a nightmare. Might not hurt to check the interior color codes either. Mine is a one year only interior color so correct replacement trim is pain to find and I have superglued some things I would prefer to replace.
Count on replacing the air suspension all four wheels and the compressor and shocks. Looks like it can be done DYI for 600-800 in parts if you use the right vendors. you can convert to conventional suspension for a few hundred bucks less but it is one of the coolest features of the Mark so I recommend agaisnt it. You might get lucky and find someone who did it recently but otherwise count on it being needed eventually no matter what. Thirteen year old rubber air springs with low miles leak slowly just like the ones with high miles on them...
Totally just my opinion: Your car needs transmission cooler installed if it doesn't already have one. You will never tow anything with the car so get that idea out of your head forever if it is there. And you will run only Premium gasoline and use synthetic oil and tranny fluid ( switch to mercron5). It adds up but is worth it in the long run.
The rear window trim/weatherstrip aging badly and the wierd looking fake chrome on the side moldings on the non LSC gen 1 cars can't be readily fixed so you should plan to live with it.
If you have self dimming mirrors they will not age well.
Gen 2 cars have an issue with the blend door for the heating that you must learn about before buying one.
If you are an evil smoker like me, know that the newer it is, the fewer and smaller the ashtrays will be. I am convinced that who ever designed all of the Mark VIII's ashtrays was a sadist as well as a non-smoker...
Gen1 only has one cup holder and a normal bottle of soda won't fit in it. Gen 2 has a neat double holder cup holder that is very cool but can be broken if you are rough with it.
And lastly prices. My personal thoughts are that all gen 1 cars in working order with reasonable miles go for about the same price range (almost regardless of miles and condition) and that all Gen 2 cars go for a different range which is semi-inexplicably a few thousand higher. Almost everyone who has a Mark thinks it is the bees knees and will commonly ask more than the market really justifies. I don't blame them one tiny bit. And since they are super cool and hard to find at all, much less in say... black on black 96 LSC... sometimes people will ask and get double the blue book if they find the right buyer.
As a buyer, learn EVERY flaw the cars typically have and ask the seller about each and every one. You will shake their confidence in their price and they will start to wonder if you are psychic. They will also start to feel guilty like a bad pet owner and start to feel like they should sell the car to you because you actually know what you are doing... They all have some engine noise at cold start and I still remember the blanched look on his face when I asked about it (I only aske dif it was there, it wa shis imagination that started thinking it might be something serious...) All gen ones have crappy headlights and they cost a fortune to replace, very few sellers realize the second part. Go for low miles and no rust at all. Go having memorized how much the edmund/kelly #'s change for the difference between 150k and 25k, because gen ones with low miles per the books are not worth that much more than gen ones with high miles and most people totally think that low miles should nearly double the price. Frankly it should, but in the real world especially for early gen 1, it doesn't.
Also keep an eye out for difficult to undo "improvements" like the aftermarket woodgrain I live with because I seriously doubt I could ever get the glue off the simple and lovely rubberized trim beneath it.
Timothy
93 Mark VIII "Hawthorne"
RE: Mark VIII value
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Read up on the headlight problem on the Gen I cars because you will have to deal with it unless you get a late 95 or 96 lsc in which case you will have to deal with the bulbs not being available at a decent price or possibly at all issue that affects the HID lights. If you want HIDs buy a car that already has them or count on another grand or so to upgrade.
The rear window trim/weatherstrip aging badly and the wierd looking fake chrome on the side moldings on the non LSC gen 1 cars can't be readily fixed so you should plan to live with it.
All gen ones have crappy headlights and they cost a fortune to replace, very few sellers realize the second part.
Also keep an eye out for difficult to undo "improvements" like the aftermarket woodgrain I live with because I seriously doubt I could ever get the glue off the simple and lovely rubberized trim beneath it.
[/div]
The gen 1 light problem can be solved by installing HIR bulbs at abour $50 a pair. Twice the light and half the heat. This is assuming the lamp isn't already messed up.
The fake chrome strip can be restored fairly well using polishing compound, our removed entirely if it is cracking or rippling. Underneath the strip and glue is a nice, painted channel that can be cleaned and polished.
And that woodgrain can be easily removed with some hard plastic material. I did it on mine without damaging underneath at all.
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Read up on the headlight problem on the Gen I cars because you will have to deal with it unless you get a late 95 or 96 lsc in which case you will have to deal with the bulbs not being available at a decent price or possibly at all issue that affects the HID lights. If you want HIDs buy a car that already has them or count on another grand or so to upgrade.
The rear window trim/weatherstrip aging badly and the wierd looking fake chrome on the side moldings on the non LSC gen 1 cars can't be readily fixed so you should plan to live with it.
All gen ones have crappy headlights and they cost a fortune to replace, very few sellers realize the second part.
Also keep an eye out for difficult to undo "improvements" like the aftermarket woodgrain I live with because I seriously doubt I could ever get the glue off the simple and lovely rubberized trim beneath it.
[/div]
The gen 1 light problem can be solved by installing HIR bulbs at abour $50 a pair. Twice the light and half the heat. This is assuming the lamp isn't already messed up.
The fake chrome strip can be restored fairly well using polishing compound, our removed entirely if it is cracking or rippling. Underneath the strip and glue is a nice, painted channel that can be cleaned and polished.
And that woodgrain can be easily removed with some hard plastic material. I did it on mine without damaging underneath at all.
RE: Mark VIII value
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
I was lucky in that I was a Ford powertrain engineer in the 90s and I was able to take a few of the first 93 Mark VIIIs on durability drives back in 92. These were some of the first Mark VIIIs that came off the production line at the Wixom MI plant[/div]
Well you guys obviously did a good job! Check out how many people talk about major drivetrain problems here, then visit a Cadillac forum and see how their wondrous Northstars are holding up.
Got any other stories about the Marks or other cool cars? I'm always interested in behind-the-scenes car stuff, and I'm sure most people here are as well.
To answer your questions:
Mileage seems to be practically irrelevant for this engine. It's also normal for them to make a clattering/knocking noise on cold starts; it's from the cam tensioner losing pressure and needing to pump back up. It can be fixed, but it's 100% harmless (despite how it sounds!), so most of us live with it.
Avoid eBay. I once looked at a Mark that I saw in the classifieds. Long story short, it was in such bad shape that I would not have hauled it away for free. But if the seller had taken pictures at certain good angles and posted them on eBay, it would have looked absolutely pristine. And that happens a lot.
In addition to air suspension problems, sometimes someone will try to get rid of the car cheap because they think the transmission is bad. If the problem involves randomly dropping into neutral/downshifting when cruising at a steady speed, chances are it's a $30 gear lever position sensor.
I bought my '95 with 73k miles for $3900 a little over a month ago. Compared to what I've seen people pay here, it's a little on the high side. But what else could you get for 4 grand that compares? That won't even buy a beat-up 80s Mustang GT around here!
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
I was lucky in that I was a Ford powertrain engineer in the 90s and I was able to take a few of the first 93 Mark VIIIs on durability drives back in 92. These were some of the first Mark VIIIs that came off the production line at the Wixom MI plant[/div]
Well you guys obviously did a good job! Check out how many people talk about major drivetrain problems here, then visit a Cadillac forum and see how their wondrous Northstars are holding up.
Got any other stories about the Marks or other cool cars? I'm always interested in behind-the-scenes car stuff, and I'm sure most people here are as well.
To answer your questions:
Mileage seems to be practically irrelevant for this engine. It's also normal for them to make a clattering/knocking noise on cold starts; it's from the cam tensioner losing pressure and needing to pump back up. It can be fixed, but it's 100% harmless (despite how it sounds!), so most of us live with it.
Avoid eBay. I once looked at a Mark that I saw in the classifieds. Long story short, it was in such bad shape that I would not have hauled it away for free. But if the seller had taken pictures at certain good angles and posted them on eBay, it would have looked absolutely pristine. And that happens a lot.
In addition to air suspension problems, sometimes someone will try to get rid of the car cheap because they think the transmission is bad. If the problem involves randomly dropping into neutral/downshifting when cruising at a steady speed, chances are it's a $30 gear lever position sensor.
I bought my '95 with 73k miles for $3900 a little over a month ago. Compared to what I've seen people pay here, it's a little on the high side. But what else could you get for 4 grand that compares? That won't even buy a beat-up 80s Mustang GT around here!
RE: Mark VIII value
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Avoid eBay. I once looked at a Mark that I saw in the classifieds. Long story short, it was in such bad shape that I would not have hauled it away for free. But if the seller had taken pictures at certain good angles and posted them on eBay, it would have looked absolutely pristine. And that happens a lot.
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For larger purchases, you can purchase a "Square Trade" gaurantee. If the item isn't as advertised, you get your money back...even for cars.
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Avoid eBay. I once looked at a Mark that I saw in the classifieds. Long story short, it was in such bad shape that I would not have hauled it away for free. But if the seller had taken pictures at certain good angles and posted them on eBay, it would have looked absolutely pristine. And that happens a lot.
[/div]
For larger purchases, you can purchase a "Square Trade" gaurantee. If the item isn't as advertised, you get your money back...even for cars.