Orifice tube location

R

Robertf

Registered
I have to fix my A/C. Can't take the heat any longer. I want to use a orifice tube repair kit and I may try one of those variable orifice tubes. I don't yet have a service manual so I was wondering if someone has a illustration or measurements of where to cut the liquid line in order to splice in the the orifice tube holder? Thanks.
 
Robertf said:
I have to fix my A/C. Can't take the heat any longer. I want to use a orifice tube repair kit and I may try one of those variable orifice tubes. I don't yet have a service manual so I was wondering if someone has a illustration or measurements of where to cut the liquid line in order to splice in the the orifice tube holder? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Usually if you spice in a new orfice tube it will leak. It is best to get a whole new liquid line. They are usually just around $20.00.

I tried a 'VOV' orfice tube in my SHO. I hated every second of it, and the AC performance was horrible. I'm much happier with the standard one back in my car.

Doug
 
Thanks for the info. I assumed that if motorcraft even sells the repair kits then they could be installed so they wouldn't leak. I also appreciate the VOV review. I've read good and bad things about them. I'll probably just stick with the standard one.
 
If you look at the condensor line going to the evaporator, right next to the mass air meter, you will find 2 crimps in the line. The orifice is inbetween.
 
Hey Robert, why do you think you need an orifice tube? What are your symptoms? It's not a common failure/problem to have a clogged tube that causes the A/C to stop working.
 
Wow. Sorry about replying so late. When I bought the car last year, the AC didn't work. The AC clutch is a little stiff when turned by hand. I can also see evidence of dye leaking from the discharge line at the crimp between the rubber and steel sections of the line. I really don' t know what's wrong with the system. I have another compressor and discharge line for the repair. Since we can't remove and inspect the orifice tube on our cars, I planned to cut the tube and splice in a repair tube. At the same time, removing and inspecting the orifice tube would give me an idea of the condition of the system.
 
Cutting and Splicing = Forever leaking A/C system.

The compressor/clutch SHOULD be hard to turn, that means it has compression.

My guess is the R-134 is leaking from that spot (or others) and you've just lost your system pressure. Buy one of those kits from the parts store and recharge it yourself.

I just did my girlfriends car for 16 bucks. No sense replacing a bunch of parts when you don't need it, thats just not right.
 
I may just do that. The system has an obvious leak, but that doesn't mean it won't work after fixing the leak. It will be worth it for me to do this as soon as possible especially since the temp in my area was 102* today. And it ain't a dry heat! lol
 
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Makes more since to spend 30 bucks on freon for the summer and fix it right in the winter. :)
 
J said:
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Makes more since to spend 30 bucks on freon for the summer and fix it right in the winter. :)
Click to expand...

Dont forget to replace the 2 A/C valve.

I was fixing my grandpa A/C and after filling up the last can of freon. Discount the A/C hose and pop the valve breaks. Waste of $50 of feron :(
 
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