oldschool1
Registered
Mark VIIs and batteries are like one of my favorite subjects. There are several oddities associated with our Marks that cannot be tested or diagnosed until we FIRST change batteries and terminals. (Alternators and regulators come later.)
No. Just because a battery is clean does NOT make it a new battery. Just becasue the car is NEW TO YOU doesn't mean that the battery is new also. When you buy a Mark VII, spend $50.00 - $100.00 and get a warrantied/guaranteed battery and treat it right.
650 should be your lowest cold cranking amps on a new battery and is probably the least expensive. Places like AUTOZONE will sell you a battery and print a warranty that NEEDS TO STAY WITH THE CAR and not in a folder in a drawer next to your pay stubs. You'll thank me, and the store you bought it from, if your hundred dollar battery fails 23 months down the road.
Motorcraft's EXT-65-850 with 875 cold cranking amps and 1090 cranking amps at 32° has been the perfect choice for my 1984 and it's rebuilt Ford starter. Some batteries come with a reserve capacity of 140 like my Duralast 65-DL. It's a measure of minutes of battery life without an alternator under normal conditions.
A battery at rest should read greater than 12.0 volts DC
http://www.lscclub.org/tech/images/battery003t.jpg
A battery being properly maintained by a turning alternator should read greater than 13.5 volts.
http://www.lscclub.org/tech/images/battery006t.jpg
After a car has been started, the battery really isn't needed again until the engine needs to be started. But I'll save that for the alternator post.
http://www.lscclub.org/tech/images/battery008t.jpg
The people at [a href="http://www.autobatteries.com/faq/index.asp"]AutoBatteries[/a] know a car load more about batteries than I do and they have a pretty good FAQ. http://www.autobatteries.com/faq/index.asp
No. Just because a battery is clean does NOT make it a new battery. Just becasue the car is NEW TO YOU doesn't mean that the battery is new also. When you buy a Mark VII, spend $50.00 - $100.00 and get a warrantied/guaranteed battery and treat it right.
650 should be your lowest cold cranking amps on a new battery and is probably the least expensive. Places like AUTOZONE will sell you a battery and print a warranty that NEEDS TO STAY WITH THE CAR and not in a folder in a drawer next to your pay stubs. You'll thank me, and the store you bought it from, if your hundred dollar battery fails 23 months down the road.
Motorcraft's EXT-65-850 with 875 cold cranking amps and 1090 cranking amps at 32° has been the perfect choice for my 1984 and it's rebuilt Ford starter. Some batteries come with a reserve capacity of 140 like my Duralast 65-DL. It's a measure of minutes of battery life without an alternator under normal conditions.
A battery at rest should read greater than 12.0 volts DC
http://www.lscclub.org/tech/images/battery003t.jpg
A battery being properly maintained by a turning alternator should read greater than 13.5 volts.
http://www.lscclub.org/tech/images/battery006t.jpg
After a car has been started, the battery really isn't needed again until the engine needs to be started. But I'll save that for the alternator post.
http://www.lscclub.org/tech/images/battery008t.jpg
The people at [a href="http://www.autobatteries.com/faq/index.asp"]AutoBatteries[/a] know a car load more about batteries than I do and they have a pretty good FAQ. http://www.autobatteries.com/faq/index.asp
