Upgrading intake

WIP95MRK8

Registered
I have heard that you can put a cobra intake manifold on my 98 mark. Any confirmations as to whether or not this is true? If so what year and are there any modifications needed? Also any other suggestions for cheap power upgrades?
 
Do a quick search. this isn't a very easy upgrade to do and you will need to do some custom fab work for the EGV valve and the throttle cables, not to mention you won't pass smog in california where you currently reside.
 
Well, that's not what I wanted to hear. Thanks though, any other recommendations on getting more horse's. Also I am OK with not smog legal as there are always work arounds. I have been through 8 cars since my last mark and glad to be back.
 
The best bang for the buck is supercharging the mark....

The second best for performance is adding gears/stall converter... none of of those options are cheap but they actually deliver results.
 
I would certainly do gears, chip, exhaust and converter before considering an intake. The intake you seek is a '96-'98 Cobra intake.
 
Ok, advise well taken. In regards to your recommendations, in which or should I go? Also I want to upgrade the brakes and change the bolt pattern. Would I also use the 96-98 cobra equipment for that as a less expensive upgrade rather than one of the kits?
 
Take a look and see what you like, I have PLENTY of advise. :D

http://www.lincolnsclub.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=15092

Honestly...it really depends what you're looking to do. A Cobra intake on a completely stock Mark is a waste of time and if you're going to go through the trouble, you could put a Gen 1 intake in it, get about the same amount of power and still pass smog. :)

If your starting from scratch, this is the order I would do it in if I were to start all over.

If I had the money in hand.....

Gears (4.10's all the way!)
Stall Converter
Dual exhaust w/headers (not smog legal I might add)
Tune or Chip

If I was kinda on a budget...

I HIGHLY recommend starting with a tuner or the 4 Bank SCT chip for $299. You will be driving an entirely different car and you can send it back for free re-tunes as you upgrade the Mark.

Thats what I would do. :D
 
Ok, advise well taken. In regards to your recommendations, in which or should I go? Also I want to upgrade the brakes and change the bolt pattern. Would I also use the 96-98 cobra equipment for that as a less expensive upgrade rather than one of the kits?

Here's a link to the Bolt Change and Brake Upgrade article I wrote several years ago. Everything also applies to the Mark VIII.

http://home.comcast.net/~dlfraleigh/Article.html

The brackets I made to upgrade the rear brakes to Cobra discs can now be purchased.
 
I started with gears, exhaust and a chip. I didn't get a converter until much later and wish I would've gotten it sooner. ;)

Here's a link to the Bolt Change and Brake Upgrade article I wrote several years ago. Everything also applies to the Mark VIII.

http://home.comcast.net/~dlfraleigh/Article.html

The brackets I made to upgrade the rear brakes to Cobra discs can now be purchased.

I remember that article! I had no idea you were the author. I have it bookmarked to do the hub swap to my '93. It's been so long since I started accumulating parts, I have to look and see if I still need the brackets. I'm hoping to get it done this spring.
 
I remember that article! I had no idea you were the author. I have it bookmarked to do the hub swap to my '93. It's been so long since I started accumulating parts, I have to look and see if I still need the brackets. I'm hoping to get it done this spring.

I mentioned it in my intial "Hello" post, guess you didn't see it. If you need any help, let me know.
 
its all about the benjamins

its all about the benjamins

1.) Longtube headers 2.5in exhaust ported Gen 2 or Cobra 98 intake manifold, cold air intake, performance converter, j-mod, 3.73 gears, 3.5in MMX drive shaft... I wouldn't do a gen 1 intake because I heard they're a mayjor PITA to remove and I would imagine it would also be near impossible to put a centri or turbo on the car later on. That would be what I would do for an N/A mark 8.

I never used an electric water pump but I've heard both good and bad things from people, its an idea though.

2.) Boost. I would recommend though atleast a j-mod, performance converter and a fuel pressure gauge or wideband a/f gauge before the cars boosted... 39-whatever lb injectors depending on your boost.. and upgraded coil packs.
 
Here are some pictures of the mods that were done to my Cobra intake to make it fit using the stock 98 Mark VIII fuel rails. As Max mentioned, the EGR was deleted and welded shut, and throttle hook up to the Accufab throttle body is all custom fab work including a new shorter throttle cable. I opted to delete the cruise control too. And also some minor fuel routing mods were done to the fuel rail.




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Here is my suggestion for the brakes:



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Booo for 3.73's! :D

haha I want them myself for highway speed/cruising.

I haven't changed my 3.27 yet because i'm afraid of gas prices shooting up (i'm getting really good MPG highway... around 30mpg at 45-50mph and 28mpg 70-80mph) :D:D:D
 
haha I want them myself for highway speed/cruising.

I haven't changed my 3.27 yet because i'm afraid of gas prices shooting up (i'm getting really good MPG highway... around 30mpg at 45-50mph and 28mpg 70-80mph) :D:D:D

I wanted to throw my two cents into the ring, which is a little dangerous since I am going to obliquely disagree just a little bit with Driller, who posts slower times than I do BUT has gotten a lot more out of his car than I have.

On the other hand I have been working closely with Mitch Chance of Chance Converters and he'll back up what I have to say here, which is a new stall converter should always be one of the last things you do. Stall converters react to the modifications you have done to your car... you could install a converter that stalls at 2800 RPM (which is streetable to the point of not even noticing that you have it) and after adding 40hp to your motor and upgrade your diff from 3.27 to 3.73 and suddenly your converter might start stalling at 3500 rpm instead, which is going to drive your transmission heat through the roof and will make driving your car in town something less than optimal.

You could take the converter out of Driller's car and put the exact same converter in your car and it would behave very differently.

A converter can pull a solid 1/2 second off of your quarter mile times and really livens up a car, but it has to be matched to your car to get the best results. So do your other changes first, then throw the converter in there when you are done and you'll be the happiest.
 
I wanted to throw my two cents into the ring, which is a little dangerous since I am going to obliquely disagree just a little bit with Driller, who posts slower times than I do BUT has gotten a lot more out of his car than I have.

I'll give you a pass on this one. ;)

I do agree with what you said though. I just wish I'd done it sooner than I did, that's all. After all, I did go round 2 with the converter, changing from a PI triple-disc 3500 stall to a BOC single disc 3800 stall.
 
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