Slow to start

J

Jamesvinar

New member
So i have a developing thing that i want to get on in case its an actual problem. When i start my car it takes a while cranking before it catches and when its warm the car kind of stumbles when it does catch. No misfires when driving so im assuming fuel filter?
 
driller

driller

El Presidente
Fuel filter is a good start.

If it doesn't improve then try priming the fuel system by cycling the key on/off 3-4 times without starting. Then see if it starts quicker.
 
driller

driller

El Presidente
Do a start-up fuel pressure routine by keying the ignition on/off like suggested before.

Presuming that is not the issue...

Does it crank over the same? By that I mean does it have the same vigor when cranking with the long start incident as a normal start routine? The reason I ask is that electrical issues can be so intermittent and difficult to track.

On occasion my '96 will crank longer than usual and often stall if it does start. But when it does this I can tell because the crank rpms are lower than usual... not by much but enough to be able to tell the difference. Often when it does this I can walk away and come back later and it will start right up. It is almost predictable just by the way it cranks.

I'm suspecting a corroded ground somewhere because it also seems to be environmental related as well (i.e. cold and damp vs. warm and dry). I only mention it because you may be experiencing the same?
 
J

Jamesvinar

New member
No change there. Sounds exactly the same for when it cranks. Maybe its the coils, these are cheap ebay ones that were 60 for all 8. I have my originals but they have 125k on them
 
M

MarkVIIIMarc

New member
Jamesvinar said:
No change there. Sounds exactly the same for when it cranks. Maybe its the coils, these are cheap ebay ones that were 60 for all 8. I have my originals but they have 125k on them
Click to expand...
I just did plugs and wires on my Aurora and noticed how much better it starts, especially when hot.

Do plugs if you haven't in awhile. I hate to fool with fine coil packs.
 
tixer

tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
That is a very long crank.

Do you hear the fuel pump priming the system when you go from "off" to "run?"

Have you checked fuel pressure? It's easy on these cars, because they have a Schrader valve on the fuel rail. The gauge kits can be found relatively inexpensively on-line. ($25-30)
 
J

Jamesvinar

New member
Found the real issue....


1 and 7 on the drivers side were covered in oil and other black stuff



99% sure that it's the valve cover gasket. I'm hoping that you don't have to drop the engine for this... Also can't get the coils back on now, they don't want to seat on the plug
 
tixer

tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
Look carefully for the full gasket kit before you take it all apart. I feel like I read elsewhere that the individual gaskets for each spark plug hole are not always easy to find.

One valve cover is very easy to remove, the other, requires that you un-bolt the master cylinder for ease of access. It's pretty well documented here. a search for "valve cover gasket" will likely get the results you seek

For what it's worth, mine always leaked a little, and it wasn't really a problem.
 
J

Jamesvinar

New member
Just an update, cars in the garage. Passenger side is almost off just a little pulling to do.



Passenger side only had one plug bad, Cleaning up a little under the hood while i'm in here
 
J

Jamesvinar

New member
Ive been taking plenty of time. Problem with jacking up the motor is that im on a steep slope, unless you think i can do it like this, i cant seem to get to the inner nut on the master cyl
 
tixer

tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
Assuming the slope is front to back, I don't think I'd let that stop me. But I have to say, I've never had to do this particular job.

Please do block all four wheels however. Take /every/ safety precaution.

And select your jacking point carefully. leaking oil pan gaskets are a real problem. Don't let that happen to you. :)
 
J

Jamesvinar

New member
Parking brake on, car in park, cinder blocks under every wheel. Where exactly do i place the jack? Deivers side of the pan with wood on top of the jack?
 
tixer

tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
I'd have to look under there to be sure, but I'd do just about anything to avoid jacking on the oil pan. Hopefully there's some conveniently placed flange on the edge of the block somewhere. maybe the motor mount itself is accessible to the jack once you get the bolt out?
 
J

Jamesvinar

New member
Ill see whats there, hard when yoi barely have any room though. I have an engine hoist so maybe i should attempt to "raise" one side with it

Im gonna try to get a few people to help, maybe enough hands prying or a different point of view. Im considering moving the fuse box and res but dont know how to get them out. If the master cylinder could come out this would be easy, dont know how everyone else got this out
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top