The Ivory KB car

[Mad1stGen]

Looking good.
The tune file can be changed from FPDM to relay (on/off)
Change the 1 to a 2 or the other way around... I'd have to fire up the computer.
Pump will generate a little more heat and vapor for the emission system running wide open, I think I saw you're running a aftermarket regulator; it will be easier to tune with the 1:1 rise from the regulator vs 1:1 and variable drive FP.
My opinion anyway.

Thanks.

I am familiar with the modulated/relay switch in the software, but for some reason I couldn't get enough (-) signal out of the ECU to drive a relay last time we tried it. I don't want this car to have any codes/errors once all done, so maybe I'll use the FPDM to just trigger that Racetronix relay. Of course, there is also a possibility of BAP being needed despite the line and rail upgrade, so things get even more complicated.

The Gen2 variable FPDM doesn't do a whole lot once you're moving. At least not as much as most 99+ returnless systems. That's what it was designed for actually.

 

[97MarkJA]

I grounded my relay in the trunk and only used the trigger wire coming from the vmrc when I tested it.

 

[Mad1stGen]

I grounded my relay in the trunk and only used the trigger wire coming from the vmrc when I tested it.

VCRM has nothing to do with the fuel pump in Gen2 ? :confused-red:

Did you use ignition (or PCM power actually) at VCRM to trig the relay ?

 

[97MarkJA]

Hmmm... Now I'm going to have to go back and look at the diagram and my notes. I'm almost positive the power relay control went through it.
I could be wrong.. Haven't touched the car in months with all the snow on the ground.

 

[97MarkJA]

The trigger did come from the relay control. Can't find my notes but I did find the diagram. I thought about going with an additional FPDM for the extra fuel pump in my set up. All ford FPDM are the same, at least up till 04, the only thing that changed was the bracket.
I think elimination of the FPDM all together is the way to go.

 

[Mad1stGen]

Hmmm... that's doesn't look like a gen 2 vlcm diagram. I'll put up the correct one tomorrow when I get back behind the computer.

I am thinking you used the PCM power found at the vlcm plug. It will work but that is not the fpdm or fuel pump trigger from the PCM.

Edit: Here it is. The gen 2 VLCM does not control the fuel pump or fuel pump relay, or the FPDM. The FPDM gets signals directly from the PCM via fuel pump trigger and then there is a monitor as well.

 

[97MarkJA]

Thanks J, I'm glad I didn't leave it like that. With the potential issues of using the PCM power wire switched 12v for the relay trigger would be better. I never saw a change in voltage from the PCM wire but I can't say I ran it for very long with the meter on it. Looks like I need to get back on Aldata.
And for those of you reading this, ignition for the trigger on a fuel pump relay should have 12v thru crank. Although it should have enough pressure in the line you would never want to starve the motor for fuel should you run into a long crank situation.

 

[Mad1stGen]

Yeah, simple "START and RUN" signal will do the job. I would really love for the PCM to be in control though. I guess we might be giving the PCM output too much credit, as I definitely remember testing it on JPs OBD2 swapped car and I couldn't get an external relay to energize with it. I think the switch in the software has more to do with the PCM logic and associated fuel tables, than actually changing the voltage output at the trigger wire.

Thanks for the info though. I'll do some more testing once the car has some mufflers

 

[steve]

looks great as always

 

[Ford nut]

Looks like I need to get back on Aldata.
And for those of you reading this, ignition for the trigger on a fuel pump relay should have 12v thru crank. Although it should have enough pressure in the line you would never want to starve the motor for fuel should you run into a long crank situation.

Did you find out any more info on the diagram?
Were it pulled it from?

 

[97MarkJA]

Did you find out any more info on the diagram?
Were it pulled it from?

I'll look tonight, might have been one I saved for the internets... It seems to lie all the time. Lol
This is why I ask silly questions.

 

[Mad1stGen]

Well, here's a pile of piping, Flowmaster X-pipe, cat converters, yet another x-pipe kit for parts, PCed Flowmaster mufflers and Pypes tips. All mandrel bent 2.5" SS.

It's clear all this stuff will have to be modded to actually fit the FN-10 chassis. What's new :roll_over:

 

[Mad1stGen]

First, the modified downtubes and spun-type Flowmaster cats. Good clearance around the trans pan.

 

[Mad1stGen]

Flowmaster universal x-pipe after modifications to mate up with a much narrower mark viii rear exhaust section, as well as fit within the trans crossmember.

 

[chestnut101]

WHERE DID YOU Get THE DOWN PIPES? i have been looking for 5 months so i can start my frpp headers swap/

 

[Mad1stGen]

Complete mid section tacked together, and ready for tig welding. Extra wide-band bung in an easily accessible location.

I will have this tigged first before I move on to the rear section to minimize welding heat related fitment issues. :embarrassed:

 

[chestnut101]

awesome work.

 

[chestnut101]

can you build me 1 with no cats?

 

[Mad1stGen]

can you build me 1 with no cats?

It's pretty much impossible for me to guarantee good fitment without having the car here. I bet there are some shops in Savannah that can help you out though.

 

[steve]

so what is the nitto for