I HAVE JUST COMPLETED A engine swap on a 1992 Towncar with the early 4.6 2 hole starter and the AOD transmission. Now, I've been out sick for a month so I had someone else put the motor in for me even though I'm the one that put it together. My current problem appears just at idle and just starting off down the road. When you just try to give a little gas, it runs rough and almost starts bucking. Give a litlle more gas and it smooths right out. punch it and she'll leave you in the dust. On the highway she's great but around town off the light she'll idle real low and stall out if you don't watch it. The motor has been alive for about a week and has about 100 miles on it. I have no codes on the OBD I system (suyise, suprise). I have swapped out the MAF to a known good one with some improvement. I do have a brand new Ford Idle air control I was planning on swapping out tomorrow as well as a known good throttle body. I have made sure I put a fresh gas tank in with a new sending unit, new fuel filters, and even ran Sea foam through the fuel system as well as the crankcase. Engine is very smooth at speed just not at idle. I have checked the vacuum stree and don't see anything obvious. Anything I might have overlooked (I did change out the elctrical harness and all sensors also as well as making sure all connectors were nice and clean).
4.6 engine swap woes...1991 Town car
- Thread starter mgawat
- Start date
I have a known good throttle body with a good TPS which I why I figured I'd swap them out as a unit. Yes, I cleaned the MAF before I swapped it out. I'm lucky enough to have the same exact motor and car here which does run great (even though the frme is shot) so I guess I could start just swapping parts but I was hoping to narrow down the possibilities.
Okay, swapped out IAC, throttle body and attached TPS, and MAF sensopr to known good ones and car ran much better but still not perfect. I finally got 2 codes of it:
332- EGR valve not opening (could be Pressre sensor so I'm going to change that out ands try again)
412- Can't raise rpm (don't know why it says that because the rpm raised just fine by the scanner).
Any further help would be appreciated. Is there any way to Bench test the EGR pressure differential sensors?
332- EGR valve not opening (could be Pressre sensor so I'm going to change that out ands try again)
412- Can't raise rpm (don't know why it says that because the rpm raised just fine by the scanner).
Any further help would be appreciated. Is there any way to Bench test the EGR pressure differential sensors?
Now that I've changed out EGR pressure sensaor, TPS and throttle boby assy, in line vacuum solenoid, and IAc, I am now throwing one code 332. The EGR was brand new when I puit it in and I don't think it's the problem. Scanner says EVO or one other problem possibly...any suggestions? I did clear the cosdes twice and the same code keeps coming back.
Replaced IAC, TPS, DFPE,Throttle body, all vacuum lines. How impoortant is the EVO in this fiasco?
Replaced IAC, TPS, DFPE,Throttle body, all vacuum lines. How impoortant is the EVO in this fiasco?
Code 332 is the EGR opening not detected? New parts can be faulty. Did you do the EGR valve test?
I did perform that test and it didn't work . I removed the EGR today and hooked my vacuum tester to it and it opened fine (maybe the channel is plugged)> Also, some funky things with the vacuum lines have been occuring like lookin=g the poweer assist on the brakes. I think I'm going to replace all the vacuum lines while I have the back part of the engine exposed, rigup a tester hose to my vacuum pump and see if I can find the problem. I did also notice one of the DFPE hoses was off the exhaust tube so that could have also been a problem in the scan. Anything else I may have overlooked, please let me know. I had put a good used EGR valve on which made me feel better in my overhauling capability but I did transfer everything over to this engine last year and it sat in my garage till about a noth ago when it was finally installed by other maechanics which seem to have done a good job now that I've been under the car.
I've got the EGR valve here in front of me with another one I know is good. I've checked the ports to make sure they are sealed at no vacuum and wide open at 5 inches of vacuum. I can't see how another EGR valve would do any good. I figured what I'd do next is check all the vacuum line hoses (I was just going to replace them all foir easibility) and hot tank another intake manifold I have around here to take care of any blocked EGR port problems. Changing out the aluminum intakes on these motor are pretty simple on an engine stand so I'm hoping it won't be too terrible in the car. I can't rtember if I hot tanked this intake manifold or not before I put it on the engine but twice is better than none. I could forget about changing the manifold but it seems to me it's the only way to be sure. I was also thinking if stickeing something in the egr port would be a solution or just a matter of time bewfore it happens again?
mgawat,
I believe that the EGR passage that is being referred to, is the one at the rear of the intake, below the 90 degree fitting that the TB bolts to. You will need a new gasket ($4 or so) and about 20 minutes to do the job. Also a screwdriver or suitable scraping type tool, and a good shop vac to get the crudlies out once you scrape it loose.
These motors tend to plug up these ports around 70K or so....... Easy fix.
Hopefully this will be your problem! Sounds like you are very close to nailing this problem!
Steve
I believe that the EGR passage that is being referred to, is the one at the rear of the intake, below the 90 degree fitting that the TB bolts to. You will need a new gasket ($4 or so) and about 20 minutes to do the job. Also a screwdriver or suitable scraping type tool, and a good shop vac to get the crudlies out once you scrape it loose.
These motors tend to plug up these ports around 70K or so....... Easy fix.
Hopefully this will be your problem! Sounds like you are very close to nailing this problem!
Steve
WELL, i CAN'T SAY i AGREE WITH YOU ON YOUR 20 MINUTE ESTIMATE BECAUSE i ENDED UP TAKING ABOUT 3 HOURS GETTING THE egr UNIT OFF WITH EVERYTHING ELSE IN THE WAY. aNYWAYS, i HAVE FIXED THE CAR BY CHANGING out the intake manifild, and all vacuum lines and all vacuum tanks. Now it runs like a towncar should. Now onto the heater core (which was already supposed to be changed out by the mechaincs I had put in the engine but didn't), and converting the single exhaust to a dual exhaust system.
Just to continue the saga, I havenarrowed all the problems down to one last item...coil packs breaking down at low rpm's. It turns out the alternator was poor but not bad so when the car was at idle , the voltage outpu was too low for the packs. NOW, it stays ruynning as a Towncar should!