Exploding Oil Filter?

J

J

OCCUPY LoD :)
Hey guys and gals........

The oil pan is dropped and everything looks normal in the pan and the pick-up tube is clear. Nothing was in the pan either, but get this, the oil filter was ballooned up soo big it looked like it was going to explode! The filter was cut open and nothing looked out of the ordinary......

Before I go any farther, what do you guys think could cause the oil pressure to take longer to pump up(5 secs) and the oil filter to get all out of shape?
 
Wow I have never heard of that before. It sounds like there is some kind of blockage in the system causing it to build pressure. You are lucky it didn't explode and leak all of your oil out and run your engine dry.
 
I remember this happening to a Cherokee I had in the 70's, I found the ballooned filter and just figured it was faulty. Well I learned my lesson because the replacement exploded a few weeks later. Filters balloon as a result of excessive engine pressure, which is usually the result of a faulty oil pressure regulating valve. Usually a stuck valve will unstick itself leaving no evidence of any malfunction.
 
Not sure if it's serviceable or not but if you are gonna go through the trouble of taking off the timing cover might as well put in a new oil pump unless you are still just planning on selling the car. .02
 
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Well....I'm hoping that we can remove the little allen screw and see some sort of crud or possibly a bad o-ring inside the pump on the pressure valve. I'll keep you guys posted.
 
driller said:
You could try an engine crankcase cleaner such as Seafoam, BG Products, Amsoil and others.
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I've just purchased and poured Auto-rx into my Mark and H2. Won't know the results for a while, but it has the best chance of getting out whatever is in there since you leave the fluid in for 2500 miles rather than 5 minutes. That and it won't hurt your seals or other internals like the solvent cleaners will.
 
Personally I think you're playing with fire. If it's a faulty valve all the cleaning agents on Earth won't help and since it may be intermittent it could fail with a vengeance without warning.
 
I would say if you have time time, patience, and know how just do it the right way instead of dumping cleaning agents into your oil. While auto-rx and others have a great reputation you have a much more serious problem. If you want to get more miles out of your motor fix it right. If it's not a problem if the motor dies and you have the money and want to replace it then dump some cleaners in and cross your fingers.

Be sure to let us know how it goes, good luck man!
 
95blklsc said:
I would say if you have time time, patience, and know how just do it the right way instead of dumping cleaning agents into your oil. While auto-rx and others have a great reputation you have a much more serious problem. If you want to get more miles out of your motor fix it right. If it's not a problem if the motor dies and you have the money and want to replace it then dump some cleaners in and cross your fingers.

Be sure to let us know how it goes, good luck man!
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I would say if you suspect that your engine is already being starved of oil, it would be best to start replacing things.
 
Mad1stGen said:
Is the filter pre or post pump ? Something doesn't add up here.
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Didn't you have some part in designing this engine? Or am I thinking of someone else?

I would assume that for the filter to explode, the filter would be post-pump, which would make sense from a design standpoint - pumps are better at blowing than sucking.

Let the silly remarks begin...
 
Mad1stGen said:
Is the filter pre or post pump ? Something doesn't add up here.
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From the manual...

Engine Lubrication System

The engine lubrication system operates as follows:

~ Oil is drawn into the oil pump (6600) through the oil pump screen cover and tube (6622) in the sump.

~ Oil is pumped through the oil bypass filter (6714) on the left front side of the cylinder block (6010).

~ Oil enters the main oil gallery where it is distributed to the crankshaft main journals and to both cylinder heads (6049).

~ From the main journals the oil is routed through cross drilled passages in the crankshaft (6303) to the connecting rod bearings (6211) for connecting rod bearing lubrication. Controlled leakage through the crankshaft main bearings (6333) and connecting rod bearings is slung radially outward to cool and lubricate the cylinder walls as well as the entire connecting rod (6200), piston (6108) and piston rings.

~ The left cylinder head is fed from a drilling into the supply passage feeding the main gallery at the front of the cylinder block. The right cylinder head is fed from a drilling into the rear of the main gallery. Main gallery pressure is reduced as it enters the cylinder head galleries through fixed serviceable orifices located at the upper part of the feed passages. It is this reduced pressure in the cylinder head galleries which feeds the camshaft journals, the valve tappets (6500) and the primary and secondary timing chain tensioners (6L266).

~ The camshaft lobe and rocker arms (6564) are lubricated by splash created through valve train operation.
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