Alarm Problems

D

dadscar

Registered
Hello

Looks like I am getting my air ride problem fixed next week(new front shocks, I think). Last problem is my alarm. If I set it with the remote, it goes off fairly quickly. It's ok if I lock it manually. I have heard it is probably one of the sensors, and probably one of the door sensors, or the trunk. Does anybody know about this, and if you do, how do I test for this.




Thanks Kim
 
RE: Alarm Problems

The usual suspect is the hood switch. It's on the passenger side up towards the front on the inner side of the fender under the hood. Unplug it and see if the symptoms clear.

Does your 'Door Ajar' warning come on at any time? If it does, it is the door switches, try spraying the latch assemblies in the door with WD40 liberally, opening and shutting the door several times.
 
RE: Alarm Problems

Every Lincoln I have ever owned at one point or another has had to have the trunk sensor unhooked to keep the alarm from going off 30 seconds after you lock it.

Blaze
 
RE: Alarm Problems


Thanks for the info. Do you you know where the trunk sensor is, so I can unplug it? I tried the other suggestion about the hood sensor, and it didn't work. That is, assuming I unplugged the right thing. It was on the passenger side, up against the fender. Appreciate any help.


Thanks
 
RE: Alarm Problems

It is located in the center of the rear of the trunk at the back of the key latch. Look behind the trunk lid liner for the wiring. It has the same wire colors(W/P and B) as the hood switch and operates the same.
 
RE: Alarm Problems

JP

Thanks again. I will try that out. By the way, I think it's very cool how you have your car set up to race, yet it is still a luxury car. How fast is it?


KRD
 
RE: Alarm Problems

I'm Baaaack


I think I have properly unplugged both the hood and trunk sensors and the alarm still went off. What's next, anybody know?



Thanks KRD
 
RE: Alarm Problems

Assuming you're trying to attach a pic - under step 2, make sure to check the box next to "JPEG image file" if your pic is a *.jpg file.

Also check the box labeled "Check this box if you wish to embed attachment URL in the message text box." for the pic to actually show in the post so we don't have to open the pic in a separate window.

As far as the alarm, the only thing(s) left are the door ajar switches, ignition tamper switch or a wiring fault. Again, do you get any "Door Ajar" warnings?

How fast is my Mark VIII? It's a work in progress, check my sig and click the link to my photo albums and home page for more info. ;)
 
RE: Alarm Problems

I'm having the exact same problem with my 93.:(

Could the ignition switch having a little play with the key out be the problem? And no the check display says doors closed trunk closed. I too have unhooked the hood switch. Wondered if I needed to run a jumper wire in it? Haven't messed with the trunk. Will unplugging that harness kill the electric trunk switch also?
 
RE: Alarm Problems

From the manual...

Triggering the System
Opening any door without disarming the system triggers the alarm (lamps and horn) for three minutes, even if the door closes. After three minutes, the lamps and horn will turn off and the Module will return to an armed state. Also, the Starting System is disabled and will remain disabled until the system is disarmed.

Once the system is armed, opening any door causes a ground signal through the 627 (BK/O) wire to trigger the alarm circuits in the Module. The Module then provides a pulsating ground signal to the Alarm Indicator through the 343 (DB/LG) wire and to the Horn Relay coil through the 6 (Y/LG) wire. Pulsating battery voltage is applied to the Lo Beam Headlamps and the Parking Lamps through the 218 (W/P) wire.

At the same time, the Module prevents current from energizing the Starter Relay by means of an open circuit between wires 23 (T/LG) and 32 (R/LB) and the car cannot be started.

An Anti-theft Trunk Lid Switch is also included in the system. If an attempt is made to remove the trunk lock (punch out, etc.), the switch closes and a ground signal is applied to the Module through the 26 (W/P) wire. This triggers the system in the same manner as previously described for opening a door. The trunk key can be used to open the trunk without triggering the system.

An Anti-theft Hood Switch is also part of the system. If the hood is forced open while the system is armed, the switch closes and a ground signal is applied to the module through the 26 (W/P) wire. This triggers the system in the same manner as the Anti-theft Trunk Lid Switch.

The Ignition Switch has a built in Anti-theft Switch. If an attempt is made to remove the Ignition Cylinder, the switch closes and a ground is applied to the module through the 936 (DG/W) wire. This triggers the system in the same manner as previously decided for opening a door.


As you can see, a malfunction in any door switch, trunk switch, hood switch or ignition switch sends a ground signal to the module triggering the system. Unplugging any sensor/switch actually creates an open circuit preventing a ground signal from that switch. No ground signal, no alarm. It's a process of elimination.
 
RE: Alarm Problems

I had a random alarm problem, about 1997, while under warranty. I think they went through all the sensors, twice, trying to fix it. They didn't fix it, either time. Took it back again. They call back, say it's fixed, come pick it up. Fifteen minutes later, they call back. The alarm went off again while still in the shop, it'll be a little longer. Somebody got their act together and finally fixed it for good. Apparently the module itself was bad. Note: As I remember, the alarm would usually go off with a noticable temperature change, like being parked in a shaded spot, but sun eventually moves to bring entire car into full blast of hot sunlight(or vice versa).

Jeff
'94 Mark VIII
 
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