Idle low?

chemman

Registered
Ever since I moved to Leadville Colorado (Elevation 10,200 feet) My 1996 Mark idles at 500 RPM. It also tends to die if I pop the gas pedal while in gear. Any Way to increase the RPM a bit?

Thanks
 
This is going to sound silly, but reflash your PCM or disconnect your battery and let the car sit for a bit so it can reset. Although your CPU is supposed to set a baseline air pressure/density when you start your car by reading your sensors (MAF/MAP for the most part), your long term fuel trim may have an effect on that. The very worst case scenario is that it doesn't work and you lose nothing.

Let us know what happens.
 
Correction: You'll lose some of the memory settings like your seating and radio stations... Oh no! =P
 
Oh yeah, and put the car through a drive cycle. They're usually around 40 miles or so, but they vary from vehicle to vehicle. I'm still new to Marks, so I'm not certain what it is on ours... This will be my last consecutive post on this thread. Promise. =P
 
Lol! I should be 3 drive cycles(or key cycles) and somewheres up to 60 miles. Basically, by driving the car after the ECU has been reset, you'll be "re-learning" the system to its new climate/altitude.

This should take care of any issues you have.

Random info----your car's computer is always adjusting itself to how you drive, basically to get the best performance/economy/emissions out of itself every time you drive it.

That applies to your situation because your car was used to the last place you lived and now that you've changed that, the car is freaking out! Eventually it'd fix itself, but by disconnecting the battery and resetting the computer, you're gonna start from scratch.

I'd leave it disconnected for atleast an hour, and after you disconnect the battery, turn your key on to completely drain the system.
 
I actually have done the battery reset thing and have put about 1500 mile on it and still 500 RPM. So that seems like a non-fix.

Thanks though
 
Well....if it can't relearn, then maybe you have a gummed up spot on the idle control valve causing it to be unable to idle the car with the changed parameters.

You can not adjust the idle, the ECU will do that. You can unplug the IAC and see if it will idle up to around 1K rpms when you start it. If it does then you have a bad IAC valve.
 
My green Mark idles too low too. Sometimes it's at 400 rpm. It's hard to tell it's running sometimes. No check engine light or codes.

I've disconnected the battery a few times, and that seemed to work at first. The last time I did that, it would hardly idle at all. It slowly "learned" how to idle at 5-400 rpms again, about 5 starts later.

It acted up again a couple days ago.

I'm going to throw parts at the problem, and just change the IAC valve (that's my guess with my car).

How hard can it be to change an IAC valve anyway?:D
 
How hard can it be to change an IAC valve anyway?:D

It's easy with the intake off. ;)

My '93 went through a spat of idling issues a while back (just before Carlisle) and has magically healed itself. It has acted up a couple times since but for the most part seems better.

If you do elect to change the IAC valve, remove the throttle body for easier access(Gen1 only). Be sure to stuff a rag in the intake opening to prevent dropping any foriegn objects in the intake.
 
Its a PITA! It took me longer to change the IAC then to change the oil filter adapter gasket, haha. The hardest part is putting the bolts back in on the install. I used a long extention and a 10mm wobble and was able to get it off/on from under the heater hoses on the passenger side.
 
I'd start checking vacuum after the reset didn't work. It's over 10 years old, it's very possible, if you ask me. If vacuum's good, then probably on to sensors. Do you have a scan tool handy?
 
Good place to start. One common place for a vacuum leak is the big plastic/rubber "T" where the PCV Valve goes into. There is also another big vacuum line running to the back of the intake on the driver's side of the cylinder head.
 
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