Replacing broken secondary chain on 94 lincoln mark VIII

94JAMarkVIII said:
Anyone?
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Sorry, I didn't realize there was a question. 😴

Are you doing this with the engine still in the vehicle? Not saying it can't be done, but I can't imagine any other way worse.

To answer your question, it is difficult to say from the pic if the crankshaft keyway is properly located... I would need to refer to the the block/head assembly on an engine stand I use for mock ups.

Presumably, the number one piston appears to be near Top Dead Center, but without the remaining components installed and properly timed, it is meaningless. Ford made a special tool to slide onto the crankshaft to hold the crank in position during the assembly process. Most utilize a piston stop, a dial indicator and/or a degree wheel to properly set TDC.

What did you do with the heads?
 
I see. The heads have been rebuilt; looking to pick them up in a few days. I follow what your saying though and will search for that crank tool you mention to hold crank in place. Thanks for feedback; I will report back very soon.
 
Nice. I would have thought that getting the exhaust off the head would have been the hard part.
 
I have had the exhaust manifold gaskets replaced with the engine in the vehicle, so I can appreciate the challenge. ;)

I hope you marked the camshaft retaining caps to maintain their OEM position(s)!

Be sure to verify the cams rotate relatively freely once installed(without the roller rockers). There should be very little(if any) 'slop' in the camshafts once mounted. If I recall correctly, the maximum radial clearance is 1.5 thousandths. I had issues once when there was 2-3 thousandths clearance which required remedial work.
 
A challenge indeed, in all honesty I cut the exhaust below the catalytic converter near the transmission thinking I could pull out head and manifold together. Starter did not allow for that.. I set aside cams, lifters and retaining caps in same manner they were in to put back OEM way
 
Hello again.. My 1993 Mark VIII service manual mentions the following for new head bolts installs. 1. Tighten head bolts in sequence (15-22 lb ft).
2. Rotate head bolts in sequence 85-95 degrees clockwise.
3. Repeat step 2.
I understand this; however I feel there may be a more specific head bolts torque spec in Lb-ft out there. Hit me with knowledge on this
 
94JAMarkVIII said:
Hello again.. My 1993 Mark VIII service manual mentions the following for new head bolts installs. 1. Tighten head bolts in sequence (15-22 lb ft).
2. Rotate head bolts in sequence 85-95 degrees clockwise.
3. Repeat step 2.
I understand this; however I feel there may be a more specific head bolts torque spec in Lb-ft out there. Hit me with knowledge on this
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My '96 manual states initial preload torque at 27-32 lb-ft of torque?

Make sure to oil the flange and threads of the bolts. Preload the bolts in sequence, then tighten 1/4 turn each in sequence and finally another 1/4 turn each in sequence.

The tightening sequence shown in the manual is basically working from the center out in an alternating X pattern. Basically, whatever the preload torque used is, there would be minimal difference between 15-22 lb-ft or 27-32 lb-ft considering the final torque is a full half turn beyond the preload.
 
In contemplating changing out the oil pump; ive decided to go for it. The manual talks about this and that; alot of this and that but im going to remove motor mounts bolts, loosing up transmission mount bolts and lift motor as much as possible with intake off. If im lucky I believe I should have enough room to remove the oil pan bolts and slide out oil pan as well to access and remove oil pump pick up tube bolts. Looking forward to shared experiences and knowledge comments. Thank you in advance
 
I highly recommend NOT to R&R the oil pump. For stock applications, there simply is no need to. The factory modular oil pumps will outlast most anything else under the hood.

However should you decide to go for it, the best way is to simply drop the K-member using a support bar across the top of the fenders.
96524_W3.jpg
 
I was kinda leaning towards replacing the pump due to my assumption the secondary chain originally snapping due to poor oil flow to the guides. Just my theory. Made me concerned about the current although unknown capacity of the pump. Any logical justification to not have to replace pump will suite though
 
94JAMarkVIII said:
I was kinda leaning towards replacing the pump due to my assumption the secondary chain originally snapping due to poor oil flow to the guides. Just my theory. Made me concerned about the current although unknown capacity of the pump. Any logical justification to not have to replace pump will suite though
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The secondary chain failure is not necessarily due to poor oil flow. The design of the secondary tensioners are problematic, particularly the passenger side.

Unless there is other obvious evidence of poor oil flow, I would not assume the failure was due to poor oil flow to the guides. One of the more common results of poor oiling would be scarring of the camshaft journals. Myself, I would need to see actual low oil pressure (with a good mechanical pressure gauge) before I condemned the oil pump. Even then, there could be other issues causing low oil pressure besides the pump.
 
94JAMarkVIII said:
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I presume you found the plastic "golf tee" in the transmission pan? If so, it is a plug from the factory that was in the dipstick hole. It is harmlessly pushed into the transmission during later factory assembly when the dipstick tube is installed. Its presence indicates the transmission likely has never been serviced where the pan would be dropped to replace the transmission filter.

2009-03-01_024325_dipstick_plug-2396119386.jpg

Toss it and carry on...
 
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