shift issues

kjm42

Registered
ok so i was driving my mark today and the idle out of no were went up to 3000 rpm and wouldn't come back down so i shut the car off checked the throttle linkage which appeared to be just fine. so i start the car back up and the idle was at 2000 rpm for about 30 seconds. then finally came down to normal .so i start to drive home and the car wont lock up the converter any more and the car wont down shift when i hit the gas peddle, but on deceleration it still down shifts like its supposed to any suggestions i am lost thanks
 
i was just reading could a bad throttle position sensor cause the car not to down shift when you hit the gas pedal
 
and i also just read it would stop the lock up function of the converter any ides but there is no engine light and no codes
 
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Tps sounds logical, also speed sensor ( which I believe is also abs sensor) and maybe map sensor. Id check for codes anyways.
 
The throttle position sensor (TPS) will not cause the engine to rev but will cause drivability issues including shifting of the transmission and lockup of the converter. Usually there is a code, but I have seen other Ford TPS failures without a code.

The high revs sounds like a failing idle air control valve (IACV).

Weird they would both happen at the same time though.
 
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Tps sounds logical, also speed sensor ( which I believe is also abs sensor) and maybe map sensor. Id check for codes anyways.
 
i did check for codes and there is not a single one i am wondering could the weather by me cause some of these malfunctions it has been very damp and humid but cold out all at the same time i have had other cars electrical parts have problems when the weather is like this and thy went away once the weather dried up how do i test the tps?
 
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I think u have to take it off and pulled a volt meter on it then turn it by hand and check for dead spots.

Let someone else verify that first though because I know some cars they can't be moved a certain way without un-aligning them or something to that effect.
 
ye ai am pretty sure thats how it goes if this car keeps giving me problems i think this one is going to get the new engine and trans instead of my shell i am sick of chasing problems on my dd
 
and i was reading in another post when it snowed like crazy here the other night it was thunder and lightning during the storm someone else said there car lost both of those sensors in an electrical storm and i know snow is a good conductor wonder if my car didn't get zapped a bit
 
If the TPS goes bad (enough to make the computer idle high) then it would throw a code. Since there are no codes, you have a failing idle control valve (and possibly a bad TPS). When they fail, they will not throw a code because they do NOT send a signal, they only receive. Your idle control valve is sticking open (they get really gummed up inside) causing the high RPMs and also causing the transmission to think you are giving it more throttle then you actually are, hense the no lock-up situation.

We had a customer come in to my shop with a 93 that had this exact situation. Car would always idle at 2000 RPMs and the transmission would not shift until it was WAY up in the RPM range. We diagnosed it, she said she couldn't afford to fix it (pouring out oil from the oil filter adapter gasket too). I turned around and offered her 500 bucks for it and my buddy bought it.

When I test drove it, I manually shifted it from first to second and it shifted completely normal, but if you just put it in drive, it would not shift into second unless you were going 40 plus MPH (TPS sending WOT signal even though I was driving slow). I unplugged the idle control valve and started the car....no more super HIGH idle. So...I bought a TPS and IAC valve (and an oil filter adapter gasket) and swapped them out. The IAC valve was by far the worst repair I have done on a Gen 1 but by changing both of them, the car was good to go and the transmission shifted like new. :wave:

Idle control valves do not just fail, it gradually gets worse inside and goes unnoticed until they actually stick. So what happened was the IAC valve finally got gummed up enough to get stuck and your TPS just happend to fail. Heck, the TPS failing could have caused the IAC valve to open more then its used to, therefor getting stuck.
 
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Is it possible to clean the iac without removing it?
 
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Oh my goodness, I just looked at the prices for a second gen iac, why are they so expensive?
 
Yea I think that's. What I'm gonna do replace the iac. And Toshiba and see were that gets me and I don't know why the iac. Is so expensive for a second Gen but thank God I have a first Gen its only thirty bucks
 
So my torque converter not locking up is that going to kill the transfer. If I drive it for a day before I fix it
 
OK so I checked for codes again this morning and I've got codes they are 23 tps. Voltage below minimum. 32 evp circuit failure. 22 map sensor out of test range. 89 converter clutch solenoid failure. 24 act sensor out of self test range. 63 tps circuit has intermittent failure. 31 pfe. Or evp. Circuit below minimum voltage
 
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Wow, lol! Replace the TPS and IAC valve, reset codes, drive and recheck. :)
 
Yea that's what I'm gonna do and change that egr pressure sensor too while I'm in there hopefully that fixes my problem I am still stumped as to why it didn't have any codes yesterday but. Oh well I guess
 
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