stripped starter bolt help!!

7

7 sek mark

Registered
so i finley got down to changing out my trans in my car today and the bottom starter bolt stripped off. the head is now round and im unable to grab it with anything. i have tried to grab the back of it where it pokes through the trans whit a pair of vice grips but thats not working either. i have some of the bolt easy outs that might work but there is not enough room there to hammer one on the bolt. so right now im stuck with my car on jack stands. so im looking at ideas to get this thing out.

at first i thought i might be able to just leave the starter on the trans ad maneuver it out around the motor. so i got the motor and trans to separate a bit and the alum shim/plate is on opposite sides of the starter and the flex plate so im stuck and im past the point of just putting back together like it was
 
Tighten two bell housing bolts and get the trans back in place.

Then install the other two starter bolts VERY tight.

Then take a hammer and chizel and try to hammer the bolt loose by making a divit in the head and then turning it with the chizel/hammer. Make sense? Kinda hard to explain....

Don't mess with the other end of the bolt anymore, its gonna make it a pain to loosen and also mess up the threads on the way out.
 
the other 2 starter bolts are still in there and are tighter then whatever. i cant get them loose either. i have tried the hammer and chizel thing as much as i can but there is not much room at all in there to swing a hammer. if that bull spit knot or whatever it is was not there in the oil pan it would be easy to get out. i think that has to be the worst design on there cars is that little oil tank thing thats just kinda stuck on the side of the oil pan all it does it get in the way.

i think im going to try to get my welder back from my buddy and try to weld a nut to the bolt that back it out. its going to be a hard spot to weld to but i guess its worth a try.
 
No way to Dremel the head off? You could cut the head of the bolt off, back the starter out and then you have an inch or so of bolt to work with to back out. This would be a last resort thing I suppose!

Also, I think if you loosen the AC compressor to move it, you can, using extensions, reach most of the starter bolts from the front of the engine. This may allow you more working leverage but someone below to keep an eye on the bolt would be critical.
 
take a 6 point 3/8 socket and bang it onto the rounded head all the way, the bolts are 10 mm, 3/8 is just a bit smaller, bang it on with a hammer and then put a ratchet on and a small pipe and crack it loose fast, just give it a good quick jerk and it should crack loose. same thing on the other 2 bolts, make sure you have a 6 point 10 mm socket, dont use a 12 point or you'll round off all 3!
 
ok i was tring to feel aroung in there and it did not feel like i could get a extension through the motor mount to get to them but i will try that way. i have some 6 point snap on sockets that should grab it but i could not get it on the bolt. once the rain stops here i will go out and try it again.
 
Get a butane torch and heat up the alluminum around the bolt in the trans, and then tap on the bolt with a hammer, this will break it loose, and then do the hammer/socket trick.
 
i ground the bottom bolt off then removed the other 2 and the starter is off now. now on to the next hold up one of the ears on the tranny was cought up on the EGR tube that i could not get off because it was rusted on to the manifold. solution: remove jack from under trans and kick until trans hit the ground. then came another problem some jacka** before me punched a hole in the trans pan with something but it was done on purpose and they shoved a rubber plug in the hole. so as im dragging the trans out from under the car the plug came out and dumped the fluid on the ground. at this point i dont really care as long as its out and i did not care if it broke when it came out its probity going to the scrap guy anyways. all i wanted out of the trans is the converter and my speedo gear i did not care what happened to the rest of it hince the kicking to remove part.

so now its out and i need a buddy to help me put the new one back in and of corse they are all busy or dont have the gas to get here. that just ticks me off to no end because i have either done work to or helped them do work on there cars at no charge. now that i need them they are no where to be found or all have bullspit reasons as to why they cant come help me. that ticks me off a few of them have called me and woke me up to come help them at 2am and i went and helped them but nope they wont do the same for me.
 
7 sek mark said:
now on to the next hold up one of the ears on the tranny was cought up on the EGR tube
Click to expand...

Kicking the trans probably worked, but now you have a hole/crack in your EGR tube. I'd be changing that before you put the new trans in.

As a solution for the trans ear hitting the tube, just turn the transmission clockwise while installing it or removing it, it will just go around the tube and install just fine. No need for force. :D

That sucks about the trans fluid everywhere, hehe. :)
 
i checked the tube its only about a year old so its still pretty flexible.

now for my next prob... when i did the j-mod to the new trans i was not paying attertion and pulled out the od servo instead of the 1-2 shift accumulator. i got it back in the way it come out got both springs back in and the snap ring did go all the way in the groove. as i dirve it now it will shift through all gears fine but once it gets into od if i let off of the gas to coast the trans feels like it comes out of gear. it will stay like that untill i either slow down enough for it to down shift to the next gear or if i rev it to like 5k rpm it will grab od and go again.

i know this trans is good it worked fine when i pulled it out of my car. any ideas what might be causing this? the trans works fine if i turn od off it grabs 1st fine and hard 2nd gets sideways 3rd it nice and grabby but 4th is flaky. as long as i keep my foot in it in 4th gear its fine and it holds great but when i let off to coast the tach drops down to idle.

frankly im baffled any one know whats up?
 
Ok...thats good the EGR tube is new. :D

Is your OD light working in conjunction with the shifter button? Maybe that is bad and its a coincedence?

Also....are the shift points for the other gears normal? For example, under light throttle it does not rev up high before shifting.
 
The OD servo is likely not connected to the OD band.

STEP #10: 2.7" OVERDRIVE SERVO (if applicable). To remove the OD Servo (see the CPD Drawing for the bore location) the valve body must be removed before hand. When you remove the main controls, you will find a hole in the case next the OD servo bore. The hole goes through to the barrel of the transmission where you will see the OD band. If you remove the OD Servo and do not anchor or hold the OD band, it can move when you attempt to re-install the OD servo. If this occurs, you will not have access to the Overdrive gear (4th).

BEFORE you remove the OD servo, use the Rooster Comb Spring (the flat metal part with the roller on the end of it), p.n. 7E332, to wedge against the OD band. Install it into the hole next to the OD servo bore so that the roller is sticking out. Wedge it against the back of the OD band and the transmission case, but do not damage the Rooster Comb Spring. Remove the snap ring retaining the OD servo using small screwdrivers or snap ring pliers. Next, remove the OD servo from the bore. If you should hear/feel the OD band fall, do not panic. You can push up on the pocket once the OD servo is removed from the bore. You will quickly learn that when you push up on the pocket, the OD band moves and the hole on the side will no longer be visible. The tip of the OD servo must contact the

pocket (dimple) in the band.






While still holding the OD Band in place with the Rooster Comb Spring, install the new 2.7" OD servo (F75Z-7H188-AA) and the appropriate return spring based on your horsepower level. NOTE: The 2.7" OD Servo does not have the metal sleeve like the stock 2.5" OD servo. Simply place the NEW return spring p.n. F87Z-7F201-AA over the servo piston so it sits in the perch. Apply some fresh ATF to the rubber seal around the edge of the new servo, then install the 2.7" OD servo into it's bore. Be sure to install it so it does not enter on an angle.



In the bore you will notice two grooves. The snap ring (7384) must be installed in the second groove. To do this, it may be necessary to use a hydraulic jack, with a large deep socket to help hold the servo up into the bore while you install the retaining ring (see Reverse Servo). Place the large diameter deep socket (i.e.

1-1/16") on the tip of the jack mount and raise the jack height to reach the OD servo bottom. Then slowly increase the height until the second groove in the bore is visible. DO NOT over force the servo up into the bore with the hydraulic jack, or damage to the transmission could occur. Once the snap ring is installed, you can remove the Rooster Comb spring from the hole.



ADDITIONAL NOTES:



In Step #13, the "shifter roller" is the Rooster Comb Spring, p.n. 7E332. Obviously, it needs to be re-installed on the valve body. You can also use a screwdriver to perform this step.



You cannot use spring p.n. F3LY-7F201-A or the stock 2.5” OD servo spring with the 2.7" OD servo.
Click to expand...

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/shiftybusiness.shtml
 
ya thats what i was thinking happened. i was not even thinking about the od band moving when i took it out. its my fault i was not paying attention when i took it out. so it looks like in other words i will not have overdrive untill i pull the trans again the open up the "guts" and put the od band back where it should be. that sux because i really dont want to pull this thing out again. it was just a dumb move on my part i was trying to rush through it and get the new trans ready to go in and i made a big mistake now im shooting my self in the foot. having the 3.73's and no overdrive is really going to hurt gas milage and i wont even think of putting it on the interstate like this i dont want to turn the motor that high for that long.

so my next question is i wonder if there is any way that i could just pull the valve body down and get the od band back where it needs to be through that hole that you stick the rooster comb through to hold it. wow im really kicking my self i had the 1-2 shift "piston" in the box right next to me if i would have just picked it up i would have seen it was to small for the "hole" i was about to open up and not done it. gosh i really feel dumb now. i would not feel so bad if it was my first j-mod but this is my 3rd and this is the 1st time ive ever done this some one just shoot me now.
 
Lol...I can try, but I'd have a hole in my monitor, hah. Don't feel bad...this is how we learn lessons.

I don't know what it looks like in there, but I'd say drop the valve body and give it a try, it would save you TONS of time!
 
Talked to my old shop.....all you have to do is remove the OD servo again and re-align the pin. They said there is no clip or anything, but if you didn't get the pin on the servo piston positioned just right, it can't push the OD band. You DO NOT have to pull the transmission out!
 
Ditto... you can do it with the tranny in the car. You have to drop the valve body of course to access the servo, but you do not have to pull the tranny.
 
j you are the man i have called a few shops around here and they all want me to bring it in and have them look at it. you are the man ill try tomorrow to pull the valve body and see if i can fix my screw up. ill let yal know tomorrow about how that turns out for me. thanks this is going to save me alot of time and or money in as if i would have just left it how it was with no over drive.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top