Well I just changed the oil and filter.I picked up a new trans filter and fluid.My question is,just dropping the trans pan and changing the filter requires how many quarts of mer5.The parts store told me five and the owners manual just states 12(no differant number for just a filter swap)Thanks in advance.
Trans filter and fluid change
- Thread starter 9_8_L_S_C
- Start date
RE: Trans filter and fluid change
The 'small radiator' you refer to is the power steering cooler, not a transmission cooler. Yes, get a transmission cooler.
To drain the converter, pull the black rubber plug from the bell housing. You need to rotate the engine until the small pipe plug on the torque converter is visible. Use a socket and breaker bar on the front crank pulley to rotate the engine to align the drain plug with the opening. Remove the pipe plug to drain the converter.
You can install an aftermarket drain plug in the tranny pan to facilitate future fluid changes or you can get a deep dish pan with a drain plug. Be sure to get the correct filter with the new deeper pan. The rubber gasket is reuseable - do not use a cork gasket.
The 'small radiator' you refer to is the power steering cooler, not a transmission cooler. Yes, get a transmission cooler.
To drain the converter, pull the black rubber plug from the bell housing. You need to rotate the engine until the small pipe plug on the torque converter is visible. Use a socket and breaker bar on the front crank pulley to rotate the engine to align the drain plug with the opening. Remove the pipe plug to drain the converter.
You can install an aftermarket drain plug in the tranny pan to facilitate future fluid changes or you can get a deep dish pan with a drain plug. Be sure to get the correct filter with the new deeper pan. The rubber gasket is reuseable - do not use a cork gasket.
BlackIceLSC
Registered
RE: Trans filter and fluid change
Can you believe Lincoln installed a P/S cooler, but didnt do anything about the insufficient trans cooling capabilities?
anyway, yes, the small black rubber plug in the bottom of the bell housing is an access hole for the torque converter drain plug.
just crank the motor over by hand until you see the small "bolt" that goes in the TC. On gen 1's, just use a 18mm socket on a breaker bar to turn the motor over. Gen 2s have the pump cannister in the way of the crank bolt, so you can just use a screwdriver and "walk' the flywheel.
drain the TC first. it takes about 5-10 minutes to get it to stop going "glug-glug-glug"...then remove all the pan bolts except 2. it will "seep" prior to dropping the last 2 bolts, since the pan doesnt have the capacity of the case. Dont forget to re-install the TC drain plug.
if your car is a pre-96, order the new, deeper, 96+ pan, and matching filter. This was an upgrade from the standard ""flat" pan the Lincoln used 93-95.
then, if you havent installed a trans cooler, your tranny will probably only "take" 11 qts. if that! If you dump 12 in, you will over-fill it. The tranny case, and the TC will 'store' some fluid upon drainage.
when refilling, pour in 4 qts in at first, then start the engine for about 3-5 second. then shut it off immediately. This will pump some of the trans fluid into the case/TC, then pour in another 4 qts. and start the car again for about 5 seconds.
then pour in 1-2 more, and start checking it.
Good luck.
Can you believe Lincoln installed a P/S cooler, but didnt do anything about the insufficient trans cooling capabilities?
anyway, yes, the small black rubber plug in the bottom of the bell housing is an access hole for the torque converter drain plug.
just crank the motor over by hand until you see the small "bolt" that goes in the TC. On gen 1's, just use a 18mm socket on a breaker bar to turn the motor over. Gen 2s have the pump cannister in the way of the crank bolt, so you can just use a screwdriver and "walk' the flywheel.
drain the TC first. it takes about 5-10 minutes to get it to stop going "glug-glug-glug"...then remove all the pan bolts except 2. it will "seep" prior to dropping the last 2 bolts, since the pan doesnt have the capacity of the case. Dont forget to re-install the TC drain plug.
if your car is a pre-96, order the new, deeper, 96+ pan, and matching filter. This was an upgrade from the standard ""flat" pan the Lincoln used 93-95.
then, if you havent installed a trans cooler, your tranny will probably only "take" 11 qts. if that! If you dump 12 in, you will over-fill it. The tranny case, and the TC will 'store' some fluid upon drainage.
when refilling, pour in 4 qts in at first, then start the engine for about 3-5 second. then shut it off immediately. This will pump some of the trans fluid into the case/TC, then pour in another 4 qts. and start the car again for about 5 seconds.
then pour in 1-2 more, and start checking it.
Good luck.
[a
Club 16 President/Founder
94 Black/Black M8
97 Toreador red/Lt. graphite LSC M8
V.P. GGM8 a]
Club 16 President/Founder
94 Black/Black M8
97 Toreador red/Lt. graphite LSC M8
V.P. GGM8 a]
RE: Trans filter and fluid change
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Gen 2s have the pump cannister in the way of the crank bolt, so you can just use a screwdriver and "walk' the flywheel.[/div]Craig - they also make those "offset" box end wrenches, (I got a Craftsman from Sears), that work perfect to avoid that pump and easily turn the Gen 2 flywheel from the crank bolt.
John
[link:www.goldengatemark8.com|Golden Gate Mark VIII Website]
http://mark8.org/users/johnaec/Mark_VIII_s.jpg
'97 Mark VIII LSC
'96 T-Bird 4.6L
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Gen 2s have the pump cannister in the way of the crank bolt, so you can just use a screwdriver and "walk' the flywheel.[/div]Craig - they also make those "offset" box end wrenches, (I got a Craftsman from Sears), that work perfect to avoid that pump and easily turn the Gen 2 flywheel from the crank bolt.
John
[link:www.goldengatemark8.com|Golden Gate Mark VIII Website]
http://mark8.org/users/johnaec/Mark_VIII_s.jpg
'97 Mark VIII LSC
'96 T-Bird 4.6L
sleeper
Former LOD President
RE: Trans filter and fluid change
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]Gen 2s have the pump cannister in the way of the crank bolt, so you can just use a screwdriver and "walk' the flywheel.[/div]Craig - they also make those "offset" box end wrenches, (I got a Craftsman from Sears), that work perfect to avoid that pump and easily turn the Gen 2 flywheel from the crank bolt.John[link:www.goldengatemark8.com|Golden Gate Mark VIII Website]http://mark8.org/users/johnaec/Mark_VIII_s.jpg'97 Mark VIII LSC'96 T-Bird 4.6L
[/div]
Or you can just delete the air injection altogether and get rid of that stupid little piece.
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]Gen 2s have the pump cannister in the way of the crank bolt, so you can just use a screwdriver and "walk' the flywheel.[/div]Craig - they also make those "offset" box end wrenches, (I got a Craftsman from Sears), that work perfect to avoid that pump and easily turn the Gen 2 flywheel from the crank bolt.John[link:www.goldengatemark8.com|Golden Gate Mark VIII Website]http://mark8.org/users/johnaec/Mark_VIII_s.jpg'97 Mark VIII LSC'96 T-Bird 4.6L
[/div]
Or you can just delete the air injection altogether and get rid of that stupid little piece.
RE: Trans filter and fluid change
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
It's a 98 lsc by the way.Hey can you guys give some sugestions on which trans coolers you guys use and is there a how to guide buried in this site somewhere for the instalation.
[/div]
http://mark8.org/lod/trans_cooler.htm
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
It's a 98 lsc by the way.Hey can you guys give some sugestions on which trans coolers you guys use and is there a how to guide buried in this site somewhere for the instalation.
[/div]
http://mark8.org/lod/trans_cooler.htm
Neontail97
Registered
RE: Trans filter and fluid change
An option is to purchase the OEM cooler and installation kit (kit must be purchased separately). The OEM will be the simplest for you to install. You get all the hardware you need and instructions come with it. OEMs are made to be put in series with the rad cooler. This is just fine if you plan to leave the car stock. If you plan to ad some major HP mods, or live in a really hot climate, then go with an aftermarket and do not put it in series with the rad cooler.
I think it took me about 2.5 hours to install the OEM cooler when I was under there doing the 1-2 upgrade. This could vary greatly depending on your mechanical ability.
An option is to purchase the OEM cooler and installation kit (kit must be purchased separately). The OEM will be the simplest for you to install. You get all the hardware you need and instructions come with it. OEMs are made to be put in series with the rad cooler. This is just fine if you plan to leave the car stock. If you plan to ad some major HP mods, or live in a really hot climate, then go with an aftermarket and do not put it in series with the rad cooler.
I think it took me about 2.5 hours to install the OEM cooler when I was under there doing the 1-2 upgrade. This could vary greatly depending on your mechanical ability.