What tools are needed to replace break pads on 2001 Conti?

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drabina

Registered
I read the other post about replacing break pads and I think I could give it a try. The only problem is that I have read somewhere that you need a special tool that turns the caliper piston at the same time as it compresses it. Is that true?

I can get the following parts at local AutoZone store:

Duralast Gold front brake pads $30.99 (ceramic)
Duralast front brake pads $21.99 (semi-metallic)
Duralast front rotor $37.99
Valucraft front rotor $26.99
Disc brake caliper tool $35

Any tips which pads/rotors from the list above should I pick? Anything I am missing?

Thanks.
 
You will need the caliper tool only on the rear brakes.

Replacing brakes on these modern cars are so easy allowing a dealer to do it should be criminal.

Unless the rotors have been turned to their limits or heavily grooved, you should not need rotors.

Buy ceramic pads for the front -- they do most of the work. low dust organics are OK for the rear.

Get yourself a 4-6 inch c-clamp. You use that to compress the front piston in to gain the room to put the new pads in.

Don't forget a high temperature brake grease for the pad to bracket contacts points.
 
Do the caliper pins need Torx driver? If yes, do you know what size? I guess I will need to buy that.

I will buy rotors if I can return them. Better to have them on hand when I disassemble the breaks. Thanks for the tip about the brake grease.
 
AZ will loan you the tool for turning/compressing the rear caliper tool at no charge. I think they charge you, then refund you when you return the tool.

BTW, visit this site > http://www.bedlib.org/ebsco.html < for free service manuals for many autos and trucks. Use "library" for the user name and also "library" for the password.
 
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drabina said:
Do the caliper pins need Torx driver? If yes, do you know what size? I guess I will need to buy that.

I will buy rotors if I can return them. Better to have them on hand when I disassemble the breaks. Thanks for the tip about the brake grease.
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Caliper pins are 13mm I think. Ch**y needs Torx.
 
Honestly, you just need a set of big channel locks, you don't disc brake tool unless you're doing the backs. Make sure when you squeeze the calipers together you open the bleeder and flush all that old fluid OUT. Don't force it back up into the system. Also, leave the inside pad on the piston that way when you use the channel locks you don't chip the piston.

It should take you no longer then 1 hour if you're a n00b. Oh yeah....use Anti-Sieze on EVERYTHING! lol! Put it on the back of the pads, the slide bolts, the center portion of the hub where the rotor rests, and on the lug studs. This will prevent rust and keep everything lubed up.
 
J said:
Make sure when you squeeze the calipers together you open the bleeder and flush all that old fluid OUT.
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Is that required? I have checked the mentioned bedlib.org web site and printed the instructions but they did not say anything about bleeding the brakes. Is that normally done when the pads are replaced?

Thanks.
 
drabina said:
Is that required? I have checked the mentioned bedlib.org web site and printed the instructions but they did not say anything about bleeding the brakes. Is that normally done when the pads are replaced?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

YES ALWAYS! Get someone to help you or there are tools you can buy to do it by yourself. I have the tool, but prefer to have someone help.
 
Be2lose said:
YES ALWAYS! Get someone to help you or there are tools you can buy to do it by yourself. I have the tool, but prefer to have someone help.
Click to expand...

I guess I will take it to the shop then. It looks like an easy job to just replace the brake pads but I have no idea how to bleed brakes. It is probably simple but I have no tools for that neither. Do not really want to mess up brakes.

Thanks for a quick reply.
 
It is not a hard job, but you are correct in wanting it done right. For the first time I would recomend you have someone help that knows what they are doing. Maybe you can even find a friendly shop that will let you watch.

Bleeding brakes is easy. You can buy the equipment or just use some plastic tubing (my aquarium tubing works great) attach one end to the bleeder valve and put the other in a cup with a little brake fluid in it (end of tube in the fluid). Have someone in the car and have them push (slowly) and hold the brake peddle down while you have the bleeder valve open. Close the valve and have them let the peddle up. Do this a few times, at least till no air bubbles run through the tubing. Make sure the reservoir stays full.
 
Sigh.......I didn't say anything about BLEEDING the brakes. I said...open the bleeder to flush the old fluid out of the caliper. It is not necessary to bleed the brakes after you do this because you shut the bleeder while holding the channel locks on the pistol after it reaches full compression.

You will have NO issues....just as long as you make sure the brake fluid resevoir does not go empty once you pump the brakes after you're done.

Also...it is NOT required to do what I was advising, but it is highly recommended. Picture all the dirty/burnt/heat soaked brake fluid in your caliper getting pushed back up into the brake master cylinder when you squeeze the caliper without opening the bleeder. Then picture your master cylinder failing, or your calipers failing because you're not bringing in fresh fluid. Not only that, you're gonna force all the brake fluid up and out of the master cylinder and into your engine compartment.

Heck, if you really want to do a good job, get a turkey baster and suck out all the fluid in the master cylinder and put in fresh stuff before you get started with the brakes.
 
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"you shut the bleeder while holding the channel locks on the pistol after it reaches full"

You haven't been "on the job" too long have you!!!!
 
Remember this is his first time doing brakes air is likley to get in while he figures it out. Bleeding is a good idea. If anything it will just get some old crappy fluid out of the lines.
 
Naw...if he feels comfortable with his skills, he shouldn't be scared, expecially SO scared he goes to a mechanic! We shall walk him through step by step.
 
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