The 14 Model T Re-Furbish

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
I know we were having issues getting the crank to seat properly in the babbet. I actually just sent an e-mail yesterday to the guy who has my motor to get a status update.

I'm currently at "work" and won’t be back till Febuaryish so I asked him if he could get the transmission ready for assembly and get the long block done. I just ran out of time last summer, life/work kept getting in the way. I will be making a good effort to finish it up before spring though. I sure do miss driving it.
 

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Small update, getting back to this I talked the the engine builder and he got the crank all set up and has the clearances set up perfect. Going to head over there next weekend to get some more work done to it.
 

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Small update, getting back to this I talked the the engine builder and he got the crank all set up and has the clearances set up perfect. Going to head over there next weekend to get some more work done to it.
Well I lied, sorry it's been so long but work trips and increasing the human population has gotten in the way.

I wish I could say to motor was together and I was just waiting for warmer weather to install it but sadly it's sitting in my basement.

I'm still having issues with setting the clearances on the main bearings. When I plasti-gauge them I get my .002 clearance but when I torque them down I can't move my crank. We were able to put a sharpie on the main journals to check for high spots, found out the outer edge of 2/3 journals was causing our "to tight" issue but still giving a false indication of having the right clearance.

So I ordered more shims to try and increase the gap a thousandth or two, then rotate the crank to burn it in slightly. I just wonder what their working tolerances were in the factory back in 1914 and wondering if I'm being to picky.

My new shims should be here this week and hopefully get it set up soon. For now though, here is my oil pan. Got it straighten and powder coated. Since the transmission section of the motor isn't supported, the oil pan likes to warp from the heavy weight of the transmission pushing down on it.

20160315_211359.jpg

Here is a poor picture of the main journal with sharpie on it. Look close and you see the high spots worn in. I just need to find a balance shims to get it close enough. Every year you have to drop the pan cove a re-adjust the shims in the mains and rods as the engine wears in.

20160304_202332.jpg

Also got some more parts cleaned and ready for PC'ing. There are the valve covers and timing cover.

20160304_175510.jpg
 

tonybrooklyn

New member
Best of luck on finishing the project!
Looks like its going to be a winner!
Don't rush it slow and steady wins the race.
 

Ford nut

New member
Well I lied, sorry it's been so long but work trips and increasing the human population has gotten in the way.

I wish I could say to motor was together and I was just waiting for warmer weather to install it but sadly it's sitting in my basement.

I'm still having issues with setting the clearances on the main bearings. When I plasti-gauge them I get my .002 clearance but when I torque them down I can't move my crank. We were able to put a sharpie on the main journals to check for high spots, found out the outer edge of 2/3 journals was causing our "to tight" issue but still giving a false indication of having the right clearance.

So I ordered more shims to try and increase the gap a thousandth or two, then rotate the crank to burn it in slightly. I just wonder what their working tolerances were in the factory back in 1914 and wondering if I'm being to picky.

My new shims should be here this week and hopefully get it set up soon. For now though, here is my oil pan. Got it straighten and powder coated.

Here is a poor picture of the main journal with sharpie on it. Look close and you see the high spots worn in. I just need to find a balance shims to get it close enough. Every year you have to drop the pan cove a re-adjust the shims in the mains and rods as the engine wears in.
I have been thinking about this and wonder about the radius on the crank were it meets the bearing, not sure if its clearing and should be checked with some machinist die. the crank seemed straight and I guess it could be checked with a dial indicator on the bearing surface. Hate to see you add too much shim
 

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Well I used a small piece of plastic with numbers embossed on it to get the engine assembled. Happy to report it's done and currently getting the transmission built up on it. No pictures this time but we're at least moving forward.
 
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