The Ivory KB car

[LSCmuscle]

The KB is a 2.6H.
"H Series - Big Bore (+15 psi) Twin Screws, less parsitic loss and 30 degress cooler air charge temps."

Forgive me if I over looked it but are you putting in the delrin bushings throughout the rear? Also, have you decided on rear tires yet? This thing should be throwing down some nasty #'s once shes dialed in.

I can now officially say I'm starting to get jealous lol, awesome job J!! :thumbsup:

 

[falcon50]

If the delrin bushings are Doug's bushings, then no I didn't.
The Mark's built for the street more than the track.
I'm using Nitto 555R Drag Radials 285/40ZR18s. I have them on my Mustang and love the way they stick in dry and wet and they last a long time.

 

[94m5]

They are still being produced, I can give you the info if you want.

 

[falcon50]

Thanks, that would be great.

 

[94m5]

Check your PMs

 

[LSCmuscle]

If the delrin bushings are Doug's bushings, then no I didn't.
The Mark's built for the street more than the track.
I'm using Nitto 555R Drag Radials 285/40ZR18s. I have them on my Mustang and love the way they stick in dry and wet and they last a long time.

They are still being produced, I can give you the info if you want.

Even though your main intention is street and not track, I would still opt for them if you can swing it (sorry J, not trying to add more to your busy plate). I had the subframe and control arm bushings installed when J did my build, and while it did stiffen the ride slightly I promise you it was well worth it. I run the nitto nt05rs (285/40/18) and am also happy with how they hook and have held up, although the one time I got caught in a rain storm it was quite scary lol.

Congrats and happy cruising with that bad a** ride.

 

[falcon50]

Standing water on the roadway/drag radials...time to pull over

 

[SCTBIRD1173]

If the delrin bushings are Doug's bushings, then no I didn't.
The Mark's built for the street more than the track.
I'm using Nitto 555R Drag Radials 285/40ZR18s. I have them on my Mustang and love the way they stick in dry and wet and they last a long time.

As both an SC and Mark owner I will contend to the fact that these IRS units tend to get a bit crazy with wheel hop as the bushings get older and the power goes up...

 

[Mad1stGen]

It's all about the size with you guys ... I swear :err-what?:

Anyways, few pictures from the last couple weeks. I've been slowly redoing the mark viii engine harness since a lot of the sensors are in different locations now, or have been deleted entirely.
I also added wiring for the FP sender to the engine harness so that it doesn't just hang in the engine bay. I want to have this engine 100% ready to go before it ends up in the car to avoid potential accidents later :roll_over:
The entire harness will be rewrapped and hid as much as possible out of sight.

 

[Mad1stGen]

Also, the rest of the accessories have been installed along with the 1st 6-rib belt. I had to black out the tensioner, as it cannot be powdercoated (PC baking heat weakens the spring inside of it).



Finally, the IAC is typically mounted on top of the blower inlet, and with how bulky the 2.6H KB is, it would interfere with the stock hood. I made an IAC relocation adapter that mounts a 4.6SOHC/GT style IAC in place of the EGR valve. There is an adapter available http://www.cobraengineering.net/IAC adapters.html, but on the KB it mounts the IAC where it would interfere with the cowl panel in the M8.
It's no CNC, but it will do :embarrassed: After 10 or so adapters it takes no time either

 

[Ford nut]

Nice adapter.
Recessed and all. I'm impressed!

:thumbsup:

 

[falcon50]

Thanks Mike for helping me on the Delrin Bushings and everyone on their advice.
Wheelhop is a bitch, hooking is so much more fun.
Since J is doing a bearing/hub swap, he said it was the ideal time.

 

[LSCmuscle]

Thanks Mike for helping me on the Delrin Bushings and everyone on their advice.
Wheelhop is a bitch, hooking is so much more fun.
Since J is doing a bearing/hub swap, he said it was the ideal time.

Good to hear, you won't regret it. :thumbsup:

 

[Mad1stGen]

It's about time to mate the engine trans, and the car together, so final few touches.
I wanted to wrap up the fuel rail plumbing before the engine goes in the car since it will a little tight to work on it.
After numerous tries with different fittings, I was able to work around this huge blower case.

First the Fore FP. Since I am not a big fan of the firewall mounted fuel pressure regulator, I decided to make a bracket to mount the Fore unit where the stock FP is usually located.



Painted and installed:

 

[Mad1stGen]

AN fittings are a bit of PITA, but to keep the scuff free FORE jaws and wrenches were used to assemble the lines.

-8AN crossover, and feeds, and -6AN return to tank.





Also, I added a 90 deg fitting to mount the FP sender out of plain sight.

 

[Mad1stGen]

Next up were the oil filter relocation lines. -10AN hoses and fittings with enough length to reach new filter location (most likely in front of the ABS pump).

 

[Mad1stGen]

Here's the Lentech 4r70w built to hopefully handle this beast of an engine. Who says lifts are for cars only :tongue-pink:



After unwrapping it I realized Lentech ships these "bare". For the money you'd think they would come loaded with all the sensors. :eek-large:

 

[Mad1stGen]

Russell adapters were used to adapt the case cooler ports to AN style fittings. Couple 45 elbows route the hoses around the dipstick tube, and out to the right front corner of the car, where the standalone transcooler will be located.



Brand new Ford OEM MLPS installed, along with the rest of the sensors, and trans harness.



I hope to have the engine and trans in the car sometime this week. Can't wait ... :smile-purple:

 

[Stangman]

Where are you mounting the standalone trans cooler on this car?

Also, what size are the fittings needed to screw into the trans? I'm thinking about simplifying my trans cooler line setup... too many rusty metal lines going everywhere!

 

[Mad1stGen]

Where are you mounting the standalone trans cooler on this car?

Also, what size are the fittings needed to screw into the trans? I'm thinking about simplifying my trans cooler line setup... too many rusty metal lines going everywhere!

The trans cooler will be mounted (provided I can make enough room for it) in front of the air ride compressor, behind the bumper cover.
It's a stand alone unit with a temp controlled fan, plus the cut out next to the fog light will hopefully provide it with enough air flow.

The trans is tapped with 1/4 NP but not tapered threads. The Russell fittings part number 640520 use copper washers to seal them to the case.

Few from today. Since I will be opening the driver's door a lot more on this car, I had to change the broken door handle, and fix few little issues. Doug, this one is for you :frown-blue: :lodrules:



Of course, like almost every other mark viii, there are missing screws, standard issue zip ties, and mismatched hardware throughout. Somebody was in a hurry :mad-tilt:



Finally, the culprit. The standoff on the housing actually broke, not the handle itself.